I know that it is not possible to disable the Electronic Traction Control without disabling the Anti-lock brakes, but there are times when trail riding that the ETC REALLY gets in the way. When mudding, for example, one often WANTS to spin the tires so that one can keep up momentum and get across the mud hazard. Or off-camber climbing when one wheel is in the air, the ETC just causes problems. In these situations Anti-lock brakes are of little help as well. So having them both off isn't a problem.

The trick is that you don't want them both off all the time or you lose the on-road safety functions they provide. What I'm wondering is if anyone has looked into making a toggle that would allow you to simply switch both of them completely off when you want. Is this possible?

If you have a KK, have you tried putting it in 4HI and holding down the traction button? It turns ESC and traction OFF. It will give you a message on the gauge cluster as well as ding saying that it's off.

*edit* Couldn't see pics at work, I now see you do have a KK. Do what I said, and you'll have all the sliding you want/wheelspin you want, but still have ABS and the BLD.

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-OME HD/MD, Clevis (3x), 1/4" spacer, 2 extra rear iso's, JBA 5.5 A-arms
-90 Nissan 240 w/LS1 swap
USAF SFS CATM Instructor

Yeah i installed this into my CRD. Find the 40amp fuse that controls it in the engine bay fuse box. Make a little harness with a fuse piggyback that the stock fuse plugs into. Run 2 pins to the fuse box pins and then have a relay wired to a switch of your choosing. I did it with my uncle so excuse my poor knowledge of electrical components and parts. But thats basically what i did. It worked great. ABS/all the assists were off and i got all the wheel spin i wanted. Made some stuff offroad easier, other stuff harder. Overall WAY more fun. especially in mud/slick surfaces. Sliding around is always fun.

edit: you'll need to find a suitable ground, i used one in the in cabin fuse box. Then i put the switch next to my roof lights switch to the left of the steering wheel on the dash trim.

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06 CRD limited
Frankenlift, JBA 1/4 top plate, 3 clevis rings, 3 stacked iso's
JBA UCA and quick disconnects
Procomp rockkrawlr 16x8 4.25bs with 265-70-65 General Grabber AT2's
Mopar full skid plates, JCR stage 3 Rock Rails
Kenwood HU, 6.5 pioneer marine grade door speakers, JL stealthbox kenwood amp
GDE HOT tune
Soon to come
RL Rock monitor bumper

This doesn't actually turn the ESC off. All it does it turn it down a bit. but if you are in really slippery stuff it will still go off. Also, if you shift from drive to reverse (like if you need to rock yourself out of a hole) it immediately turns back on to full blast. I actually got stuck BECAUSE if the stupid traction control going off. I needed to be able to spin the wheels to "dig" myself out of a thick layer of mud on top of a hard clay surface and because of the traction "control" I couldn't move at all. I ended up having to be tugged out by a wrangler with a 4 banger!

Ahh. So it IS run on a single fuse? Nice! Well if that's all it is then adding in an appropriately rated toggle switch, running some good thick gauge wire with a secondary fuse and making sure everything is properly waterproofed should be reasonably simple. I don't have a heated workshop though, so it will have to wait until spring.

yeah it was a 40amp one for sure on mine, i remember because i really had to beef up my wiring since i didn't anticipate it being that high. I believe i used the ABS pump one, which turned off abs traction control and all that stupid stuff. Made it way more fun to drive in the snow too

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06 CRD limited
Frankenlift, JBA 1/4 top plate, 3 clevis rings, 3 stacked iso's
JBA UCA and quick disconnects
Procomp rockkrawlr 16x8 4.25bs with 265-70-65 General Grabber AT2's
Mopar full skid plates, JCR stage 3 Rock Rails
Kenwood HU, 6.5 pioneer marine grade door speakers, JL stealthbox kenwood amp
GDE HOT tune
Soon to come
RL Rock monitor bumper

This is what you are looking for..
Be careful, this is only for offroad use.

viewtopic.php?f=88&t=51166

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-dbk
SOLD2007 6 Speed - Projector Retrofit -Custom LED Tail Lights - Lights on Cowl & 130w 8" ProComps - Full Skids-RockLizard Super Skink Sliders-Front Hitch
Frankenlifted-Al's A-Arms-Goodyear Duractracs 31x10.5R15x7 Cragar D Window 4"bs-Cobra 75WXST - 4' Firestick
4.10s sitting in a box - 3
Sold-1988 Suzuki Samurai
2002 Jeep TJ

That is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Slotting that thread away for future use. This plus some rear air lockers and I will be able to handle almost anything.

Why can you not just put a switch inline on either wire of that J6 fuse? Why do you need to go to all the trouble of adding a relay and extra fuse in there? That doesn't seem necessary. Put a break in either wire of the J6 fuse and it will do the same thing, yes?

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-OME HD/MD, Clevis (3x), 1/4" spacer, 2 extra rear iso's, JBA 5.5 A-arms
-90 Nissan 240 w/LS1 swap
USAF SFS CATM Instructor

Can melt the switch.

That makes sense. Even if you get a 30/40A switch? Meh, either way, relay would still be safest I suppose.

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-OME HD/MD, Clevis (3x), 1/4" spacer, 2 extra rear iso's, JBA 5.5 A-arms
-90 Nissan 240 w/LS1 swap
USAF SFS CATM Instructor

I didn't understand why there was a secondary fuse in that one, but the relay makes sense. Mine only had the original 40a fuse, a relay and a switch. Worked fine and never gave me problems.

_________________
06 CRD limited
Frankenlift, JBA 1/4 top plate, 3 clevis rings, 3 stacked iso's
JBA UCA and quick disconnects
Procomp rockkrawlr 16x8 4.25bs with 265-70-65 General Grabber AT2's
Mopar full skid plates, JCR stage 3 Rock Rails
Kenwood HU, 6.5 pioneer marine grade door speakers, JL stealthbox kenwood amp
GDE HOT tune
Soon to come
RL Rock monitor bumper