My wife was trying to take the kids out yesterday. She started up the 05 CRD, let it run for about 5 minutes while she packed up a few things. When she tried to put it into gear, it wouldn't go. It was slipping.

I got home a few hours later and tried it out. Transmission is slipping in any gear, including reverse. I also hear a clicking when I shift it out of park (like the gear isn't catching). The CEL is on, so I pulled the codes:
P0700 Transmission Control System
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0876 Powertrain
P0501 Speed Sensor Range (this is yellow)

This happened rather suddenly. I haven't had any shifting issues recently. I drove it all last week (after finally fixing the EGR problem) and it was fine. It has been really cold (10 in the morning), but we're letting it warm up before driving.

Give it to me straight.

Perhaps obvious but I like to start at the obvious first just in case:
1. had the vehicle been sitting for a long period of time, say 6 hrs or more? If so my first thought would be the classic fluid drain back problem which idling in park may not solve. Try shifting into neutral and holding a high idle (1200 or so) for 30 seconds. Does the problem go away? If so could be as simple as bad drain back valve on filter (service tranny and replace both filters), push on filter came loose (reinstall with vigor), tranny valve body problem (may be as simple as the side plate on the valve body has broken or come unbolted - generally the fix is those portions of the Transgo kit that can be installed in the valve body which includes a better side plate and involves a tranny service), some have indicated failing front pump (requires dropping tranny to fix - i.e. install new model front pump). FYI the drain back problem will throw several weird codes.
2. even more obvious did you check fluid levels? I once had a Dodge D-250 Cummins automatic crack the threads on a fitting on the tranny end of the tranny to tranny cooler hose. Slipping was directly related to pumping a steady stream of tranny fluid (like 1qt per 5 miles) onto the ground until there was too little fluid to operate tranny.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Yes, each time, it was sitting for at least 6 hours. I'll try the various things mentioned below and check the fluids (first) and report back.

Can I do a transmission flush at home? Is there a howto somewhere? Which type of fluid do I need to put back in?

thx

If by transmission "flush" you mean removing all the existing transmission fluid and replacing it all with new the answer is no. That, as far as I know, requires special equipment although there is some web chat about pouring fluid in as it's pumped out into a catch container from a tranny coolant line. How well or poorly that works I have no personal clue. That said while it's messy you can do a normal transmission service which is simply dropping the transmission pan, pulling and replacing the 2 filters, reinstall pan and add fluid. Grab a copy of the FSM (suggest both 05 and 06 as 05 lacks diesel cooling system info and diagnostic but has illustration keys while 06 is the reverse) and check out the Fluid and Filter Replacement section for the 545RFE transmission.

ATF+4 only no matter what any transmission shop says.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Okay, fluid level looks okay. I never saw any leaks and at a cold start, it was at the 'COLD' level.

I tried the high rev for 30 seconds, but it didn't do anything. Transmission didn't get into gear. I guess next step is to pull the pan off and see what's happening inside.

Before dropping the pan you might want to take a look at those codes in the 06 FSM for hints. Unfortunately I doubt that the FSM will be much help. The P0700 code is just notification code in the ECU that simply says there is a tranny code stored. Most all code readers, except dealer or equivalent, only read engine (ECU) codes and won't read tranny codes accurately if at all.

Then see if a pan drop suggests anything. Not to be too negative but I wonder if your torque converter has come loose from the flywheel. I'm not a tranny person so I really have no clue if that may cause your problem but it's a thought. I do know that there is a "port" in the vicinity of the starter that you use for access to the TC bolts but the only way I know to rotate the engine to check those bolts is manually, clockwise with a 21mm socket on the crankshaft nut up front, and getting to the nut to do is requires some disassembly. Perhaps someone who knows more than me can weigh in as I'm about out of ideas.

PS the 545RFE automatic is a pretty common DCJ tranny (e.g. not limited to use on the CRD) so finding expert service shouldn't be hard.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I just had this happen to my jeep as well. The torque converter sheered the splines right off the shaft and all the metal shavings got into the trans. This was a quick 2300 bucks gone but everything seems to be working well now without any shudder or shifts nice.

I agree with toroos. I had the same problem recently and it was sheared splines in the torque converter. You do not have to drop the pan to change TQ. It can save you some coin if your tranny oil and filters are fresh. I did the replacement myself and it cost me about $500.

Nice, something else to worry about

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

I still have to pull the tranny off the Jeep to get to the TC, right? I mean, there's not like an easy access port or something where I can take off the bell housing. I'm gonna winch it into the garage this week and begin the diagnosis. I guess maybe I'll start with a new TC and maybe the parts to rebuild the pump.

Yes the tranny has to come off and its also just easier to take the transfer case off along with it. When my converter went it sent metal from the torque converter all through the tranny so make sure you flush it out well. I also had them replace all my sensors while they were in there. You only want to have to do this once. Also make sure you get the new euro spec converter. Good luck and keep us posted. These diesel jeeps remind me of the 70's style snowmobiles fix them all week so you can run them during the weekend ha ha ha.

Haha. Definitely feels like it. I just fixed the stupid EGR problem a week before the transmission problem showed up.

I'm replacing my TC as we speak. Was wondering if any one knows the torque values for the TC bolts off hand? When I put it back together, I want to do it right, and not have any problems. '05 Libby CRD.

Thanks in advance,

Joe

So, in one case, the splines on the input shaft sheared off and in the other, the splines on the TC sheared off? Everybody sure about this?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

So, how hard and expensive is it to replace the input shaft? I haven't seen THAT part in any of the rebuild kits.