what's wrong with my crd need some help

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:01 pm

I went to leave for work this morning my jeep started up fine pulled out from the house and about 50 feet from my house my jeep just does. I pull off to the side and try to start it back it cranked and cranked and finally started back. I went ahead drive it to work.Well i was leaving for lunch and went to stay it back and same thing cranked and cranked but once it started it seemed to run fine no warning lights or warnings. Any help would be appreciated.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:45 pm

Hello....
Could be an air issue in your fuel. The first thing I'd check would be the fuel head. Do you have the first generation or the 2nd gen? I had an issue about 2 years or so ago in which my CRD started fine and I put it in reverse to back out of my parking space and when I started to go....it just died. No warning whatsoever. I tried but it would never fire back up. Replacing the fuel head to the 2nd gen solved the problem. Could also be a failing crank position sensor from what I;ve read on the forums.

Jim

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:47 pm

Also....welcome to the Lost Jeeps forums! You will find lots of great folks here with TONS of knowledge.

Jim

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:47 pm

taylormay25 wrote:

I went to leave for work this morning my jeep started up fine pulled out from the house and about 50 feet from my house my jeep just does. I pull off to the side and try to start it back it cranked and cranked and finally started back. I went ahead drive it to work.Well i was leaving for lunch and went to stay it back and same thing cranked and cranked but once it started it seemed to run fine no warning lights or warnings. Any help would be appreciated.

What kissfan79 said.

Air in the fuel line is the most likely suspect....try priming the fuel filter head as per instructions given in SAMS Noob Guide which is a must read for all new CRD members here.

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:36 pm

I appreciate all the help guys it helps a lot to have a site like this. I just bought this jeep a month ago it is a 2006 with 70,000 thousand miles on it. So I pulled it in the garage and first thing I checked was the map sensor needles to say it was terrible. Then checked for air in the lines and didn't really seem to find anything but after driving it for a while now it seems to be doing just fine. Definitely driving better now that the map sensor is cleaned. It just seems to idle better and just smoother but a appreciate all the help and I hope that this fixed it because so far I'm loving this jeep.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

New leakfree fuel head (2nd generation OEM or better Racor 245 ) along with a lift pump (in-line or in-tank) are mandatory for this vehicle and I wouldn't think of not owning a CRD without one.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:24 am

I would try a new fuel filter first, been there done that.

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:54 pm

It ran fine all yesterday evening and this morning but driving home from work loss of power. It would still build up to speed but with no power and a real slow rpm build.Idk what to check next on it i have a new fuel filter ordered just waiting on it to get in.

saabflyer89 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:01 pm

Hi there, just a quick question, your last post stated that the libby was having a hard time building up speed, did you find that you were leaving a big black cloud behind you? If you have a lack of power but no smoke that would tell me a lack fuel, where as if you had a boost leak somewhere you would have more fuel then air and cause it to run rich and pour on the smoke. Just a thought

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:05 am

Boost leak is typically a leak in one of the CAC hoses (pull off vehicle and remove covering to check, while off check air box to turbo hose for crack just in front of the turbo and check turbo fan for movement slight fore/aft ok no more than a bare hint side to side) or boost pressure solenoid (can be bypassed to check)

DadsDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:42 am

Well,

This is my first time with reoccurring "won't start after sitting." And, dies after a few seconds.

The wife thought it was from her last fill-up because that's when the issue started. (filled not at her 'normal' station)

84K miles original fuel head filters replaced every 20K-ish

When I go to prime the fuel head and open the bleeder valve, a little 'pfsstt" of air comes out before I even pump the plunger. I have kept a close eye on the connectors on the fuel head and have not seen the typical burning as reported by others here.

It takes several pumps to get all the air out and even then I have to crank her a few times, (the Libby not the wife) and repeat the bleeding process.

So, I guess I am giving some advice as well as asking a question...

The Jeep runs fine after priming, it is only after she sits, and not every time.

My question is, it must be time for a gen-2 fuel head and in-tank lift pump? Or, could it have just been an off tank of fuel?

I have had great luck with the CRD so far. But, at 84K is it time to trade it in?

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:59 am

I would go for the 2nd Gen Fuel head first. The in-tank lift pump works for some but I have not had to apply one and I have 118k miles, the fuel head repaired my issues.

84k, do you have a GDE Tune, SEGR, or do you use the ORM mod? If not, and if you don't want to deal with the myriad of issues that are coming, now might be a great time to seperate yourself as (at a minimum) you have a TB ($1500+ if you can't do it yourself) coming up and the eventual Rocker/Lifter failure that goes with this engine.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:30 pm

I'm still using the original fuel head assembly.
I did the lift pump before I ever heard of any new type fuel head.
My lift pump is the Facet type, installed under the hood. I think I spent less than $75.
I've had no problems with air in fuel.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:47 pm

Not to be difficult but I've said this before several times - bleed the filter head just like you bleed brakes, pump, release valve, close valve, pump - see Sir Sam's NOOB guide bleeding video.

"When I go to prime the fuel head and open the bleeder valve, a little 'pfsstt" of air comes out before I even pump the plunger" says the poster opened the bleed valve and then started pumping the primer. That's a good way to suck air in/out of the bleeder and never get all the air out of the filter head.

If I'm mistaken about my read of this statement my apologies.

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:44 pm

There was no smoke when I was trying to build up speed.

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:44 am

New development for in it to go to work this morning wouldn't start at all. I primed it with the hand pump next to the filter and reluctantly it started but in doing so it is bubbling fuel out of the right sensor plug.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:12 am

As folks have been saying from the beginning of this chat. Get a 2n generation fuel filter head like now as in before you drive any more. Trust me fuel bubbling out of the right (heater) plug is dead bang give away that you have air in the fuel and are risking an engine bay fire. See lengthy chat at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=24616

See my post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74575&hilit=+filter on how to swap in the 2n gen head

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:15 am

Just my opinion.....but that sounds like you definitely need to upgrade to the second gen fuel head. IIRC....fuel leaking from the connector was one of the issues with it.

Jim

EDIT-Didn't see Papaindigo's post when I made this reply.

taylormay25 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:36 pm

I appreciate all the help and I was trying to put off buying the 2nd gen fuel head but I picked one up today I'm going to install it after work thanks for all the help

what's wrong with my crd need some help

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