Strange noise and Oil level on dipstick.

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:02 pm

I have been having these two issues lately.

1] whenever I try to check oil level immediately after shutting of the engine it shows up lower than min mark if I leave it sitting for a couple of hours is shows up just under the Max mark right where it should be. I am using oversize Bosch Distance plus 3500 oil filter and 7 Quarts of oil.

2] I am hearing a strange chirping sound ( the kind of old belt noise even though my belts are new ) on top of exhaust note or turbo whistle (every time i accelerate hard between 1500-300 RPM) sound seems to come from driver side seems like just underneath the feet or pillar side vent /steering column ( i can not pin point) it but seems very near to me and goes away as soon as i ease up on pedal.

Any ideas ? thanks.

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:25 pm

On the oil level....I haven't checked it immediately after shutting down but from what I have read on forums the oil passages are really small. Have you tried checking it say....15 minutes after shutting it off to see where the oil level is at? I'm thinking it takes a little longer for the oil to drain back into the oil pan than most vehicles.
On the chirp....my first thought was the alternator pulley or one of the idler pulleys but it sounds as though you are hearing the sound under the dash or by your feet and I don't know if the pulleys would project the sound down there if it that is what it was.

Jim

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:24 pm

It may take some time for the oil level to come back up once the engne is shut off. Keep in mind that the max level is too full; I keep mine half way between min and max, and I lose very little out the vent.

As regards noises, I have a terrible time locating noise sources while the engine is running. The best thing I have found for that is a mechanic's stethoscope which allows you to reliably pinpoint noises. Places I would check are the serpentine idlers, the alternator, the water pump, and the turbo. BTW, any time you are servicing the beast, oil changes etc. take a few minutes and check the turbo shaft play. Cheap insurance.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:25 pm

Well sound can do really weird things. I'd try to eliminate the most common source of serpentine belt noise first and that's a bad alternator pulley. In your case you will need 2 people. Crank up an at idle look down the serp belt from the alternator pulley to the serp belt tensioner, if it's dancing around (as opposed to barely twitching) that pulley is likely bad. If it appears steady have person #2 bring rpms up to the range where you hear the noise and check again.

Other than that I wonder if an FCV valve with bad gears could make such a noise at those rpms? Thought's anyone?

flman · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:54 pm

papaindigo wrote:

Well sound can do really weird things. I'd try to eliminate the most common source of serpentine belt noise first and that's a bad alternator pulley. In your case you will need 2 people. Crank up an at idle look down the serp belt from the alternator pulley to the serp belt tensioner, if it's dancing around (as opposed to barely twitching) that pulley is likely bad. If it appears steady have person #2 bring rpms up to the range where you hear the noise and check again.

Other than that I wonder if an FCV valve with bad gears could make such a noise at those rpms? Thought's anyone?

When my FCV failed, I could only hear it with the key off.

I think is more of a belt, or Alternator decoupler, or an idler?

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:45 pm

See I did the TB belt service 3000 km ago and at that time I replaced the serp belt but not the tensioner all the rollers and water pump were also replaced besides that I can not recreate the sound at stand still only when jeep is moving / accelerating rapidly betwooen 1500-2000 rpm then it is gone.
Thanks.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:15 am

I agree that it sounds like the decoupler/clutch on the alternator.

Re: serpentine pulleys, it may be worth pulling the serp belt in order to spin the idlers (etc). Listen to each idler as it spins (for any catching or 'gritty' noise). They begin life packed with grease and don't spin freely for long. Many miles later, most of the lube has migrated out past the seals and it enters a stage of life where it's almost dry but Ok mechanically. In this stage it spins very freely and will continue spinning for some time if allowed to do so - where previously, the grease and seal would stop it in seconds. I'd replace it if they appear dry and spin freely enough to continue spinning for 5 seconds or more - because I think that from that stage to failure (gritty, catching operation as the bearings fail) isn't as far away as you'd like. The pulleys are relatively cheap at NAPA, and I've seen more than one failed serp belt take out the timing belt/rockers due to the jolt when it failed and wrapped around the crank pulley/dampener. Insurance!

You can spin the rest too - viscous heater, A/C pump, P/S pump, etc; they're a bit more challenging when trying to detect subtle signs but if they're failing you'll see/hear/feel something amiss while turning, perhaps even a wobble off-axis if it's really bad.

You can replace the decoupler in 1/2 hour if you have the tool, or the whole alternator (as some do) - which comes with the decoupler. Careful, as some aftermarket alternators and pulleys don't last.

You can do the diagnostics on the serp belt-driven idlers and accessories in another 1/2 hour or so, and change most any idler in 15 minutes once the belt is off.

Good luck,

Mark

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:05 am

If you see red dust around the alternator and pulley, the decoupler needs to be replaced. Hopefully, that will also take care of your noise. Do that first.

DOC

factory53 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:41 pm

Hey everyone,

I'm having the same sound show up, can't get the sound to show when I'm stationary and revving the engine only when I am excelerating while driving. I wouldn't describe it as a chirp, but more of a whine that gets higher pitch as I add throttle and only when the turbo kicks in (again only when moving).

I just replaced my turbo hoses with new Samco's a couple of weeks ago and the sound has started since then.

The sound seems to be coming from the driver side near where the fuel filter would be located.

I've heard other people say that the sound is air sucking...but I'm sure I wouldn't have a split in brand new Samcos.

About 6 weeks ago, I pulled out and swapped the glow plugs and while doing that I pulled apart the intake elbow, cleaned all the soot and everything out and replaced two gaskets and an O ring. So I'm hoping those aren't faulty. The only other thing I can think is there is a smaller hose that connects just before the intake elbow and it required new orange gasket putty and mine was a bit chunky but I filled it in pretty good. Could that be a spot that might cause an air suction sound?

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks everyone.

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:36 am

Best idea is to look for red dust which I found on my decoupler so waiting for replacement alt with decoupler only positive is that it will give you couple of weeks time before it gets worse.

factory53 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2013 1:44 am

I just went out to check the hose clamps that I got with my Samco hoses to see if they had come loose and to my surprise they all were. I know I had tightened them well when I installed them but I tightened them again and that got rid of that whine sound I was hearing when the turbo and throttle were spooling up.

I did pull off the passenger side hose and there is a fine layer of oil in there again. I'm going to have to get that GDE ecotune soon. That will have to wait until next month though.

Anyone know what the turn around time is for sending the ECU off and getting it back again?

Cheers,

Billy M · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:59 pm

factory 53,

You will still have the oil in your hoses unless you do the EHM or Provent. The GDE tune will help with the EGR.

I mailed GDE my ECU on a Monday, and got it back on Friday. Awesome service!

Billy

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:59 am

I would implore people to calibrate their dipsticks -I know you get the argument that surely a manufacurer can get that right.
Well Caterpillar recommend it!!!

I calibrated my dipstick, as the Export models have a pitch black dipstick (blued like a gun barrel) it is a bit hard to read. Serves as an accurate reference line for mods now like adding a by-pass filter

a) I CAREFULLY engraved the correct level on mine (lightly etched) so as not to weaken it to break the tip off - it being spring steel.
b) I also polished off the blued finish with a stitch mop buffing wheel on bench grinder with correct polishing compound) so I am reading my darker oil against a shiny silver surface.

I get absolutely minimal mist after the turbo. Just this week I removed the Samco inlet CAC hose. I wiped the tiniest amount of oil after about 30K km's. Borescope showed nothing to speak of where I could reach in the aftercooler.

It serves as a check when I do oil changes....which I measure (volumetrically) every time anyway.

I have had a ProVent but not fitted it. Insufficient space IMHO in the export model (am creating space for a bypass oil filter which I deem more important). I have been working on the fitting of a Landrover PCV cyclone but I have reservations re that now given how small an amount of oil I had to deal with. My oil puck is always "clean".

I have recently become less sure that this is a good idea as I think the mist plays a role. I am in 2 minds re taking such a tiny amount of lubing oil away). Especially given the failures I read about.

factory53 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:31 am

@Billy thanks for the feedback. I'm confused because I did do the EHM and there is stool oil in showing up. Could it be residue oil being moved through the system?

That's awesome about the speedy service ftom GDE, I'll be sending it off in the next couple if weeks. I can't wait.

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:12 am

Yes. Those hoses should always be checked after a week of running.

jsrmonster · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:24 am

Egr pipe across rear of engine can chirp or squeal on either end if loose or cracked. Look for soot around joints. Block it off and write it out and done.
Jeff

Strange noise and Oil level on dipstick.

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