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 Post subject: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:17 pm 
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Hi I was going to replace my brake fluid on 06 crd so my question is how many quarts do I need? and recommendations on brand besides being DOT 4. Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 4:15 pm 
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Srytrucker wrote:
Hi I was going to replace my brake fluid on 06 crd so my question is how many quarts do I need? and recommendations on brand besides being DOT 4. Thanks


ATE super blue. Have Two liters.

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1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:27 pm 
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My cap shows "DOT 3" but I was going to flush it with DOT 4 with my power bleeder when I do my front brakes before PA inspection in June.

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:29 pm 
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Any Pointers how to go about it as I have no idea but got good deal on a Brakes bleeding unit from harbor freight for 25 bucks.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:37 pm 
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Use speed bleed screws, and just pump the pedal. No opening/closing required.

I start with rear passenger side then rear drivers side, then FR, then FL.

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1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:18 pm 
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LMWatBullRun wrote:
Use speed bleed screws, and just pump the pedal. No opening/closing required.

I start with rear passenger side then rear drivers side, then FR, then FL.



What size speed bleed screws are the correct ones?

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:09 pm 
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I do it this way :rockon:

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:32 pm 
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LMWatBullRun wrote:
Use speed bleed screws, and just pump the pedal. No opening/closing required.

I start with rear passenger side then rear drivers side, then FR, then FL.

That's how I did it with super blue last year. Speed bleeders web catalog was correct as far as the size to get I just don't remember it.

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:41 pm 
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flman wrote:
I do it this way :rockon:

Image

Image

I have the same pressure bleeder. I have the Volvo adapter, need to order the correct one for the Jeep. Do you take the reservoir off and clean it out before flushing the fluid? Any thoughts on using DOT 4 in place of the (stock?) DOT 3? I say stock because I think my filler cap says DOT 3...

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:35 am 
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arengant wrote:
LMWatBullRun wrote:
Use speed bleed screws, and just pump the pedal. No opening/closing required.

I start with rear passenger side then rear drivers side, then FR, then FL.



What size speed bleed screws are the correct ones?


3/8 x 24 IIRC. The catalog is correct, I remember that. Slick little gadget!

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:46 pm 
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MRausch82 wrote:
I have the same pressure bleeder. I have the Volvo adapter, need to order the correct one for the Jeep. Do you take the reservoir off and clean it out before flushing the fluid? Any thoughts on using DOT 4 in place of the (stock?) DOT 3? I say stock because I think my filler cap says DOT 3...


I made my own from a sink stopper:
Image

Haven't cleaned the reservoir yet.

DOT 3 brake fluids are mixtures of glycols and glycol ethers. DOT 4 contains borate esters in addition to what is contained in DOT 3.
DOT 4 glycol based fluid has a higher boiling point (446F) than DOT 3 (401F) because of the borate esters.
I have DOT3 in now but will probably use DOT4 in the future just to match all my other vehicles.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:23 pm 
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MRausch82 wrote:
flman wrote:
I do it this way :rockon:


I have the same pressure bleeder. I have the Volvo adapter, need to order the correct one for the Jeep. Do you take the reservoir off and clean it out before flushing the fluid? Any thoughts on using DOT 4 in place of the (stock?) DOT 3? I say stock because I think my filler cap says DOT 3...


I have a Chrysler and a Euro adapter, I also have the universal one if you like leaks and fluid every where?

I suction the old fluid out of the reservoir, but no cleaning, I should probably go to DOT4 since that is what my Sprinters take, it has a higher boiling point then 3 as the only difference.

I test my fluid at every oil change with this.

Image

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... 4AodFHYAsw


Got mine on Ebay.

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:37 pm 
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flman wrote:
I have a Chrysler and a Euro adapter, I also have the universal one if you like leaks and fluid every where?


Good point. Forgot to mention that I don't use the fluid reservoir on my pressure system because of the chance of leaks.
I just put the fluid in the vehicles reservoir and use air pressure.
The disadvantage of this method is you have to watch the reservoir to ensure that it doesn't run dry inducing air into the brake system.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Squeeto wrote:
flman wrote:
I have a Chrysler and a Euro adapter, I also have the universal one if you like leaks and fluid every where?


Good point. Forgot to mention that I don't use the fluid reservoir on my pressure system because of the chance of leaks.
I just put the fluid in the vehicles reservoir and use air pressure.
The disadvantage of this method is you have to watch the reservoir to ensure that it doesn't run dry inducing air into the brake system.


I was questioning what if that thing you made blows off? :furious:

The universal one is chained on, so it just leaks.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CNz4v8mEo7YCFUJo4AoduCkA0Q#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=22981214

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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:39 pm 
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flman wrote:
I was questioning what if that thing you made blows off? :furious:


I take my time, so I only set the pressure to 10psi.
I have a tight enough fit that it hasn't blown off yet.
If it does, it is only air. 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:33 pm 
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Squeeto wrote:
flman wrote:
I was questioning what if that thing you made blows off? :furious:


I take my time, so I only set the pressure to 10psi.
I have a tight enough fit that it hasn't blown off yet.
If it does, it is only air. 8)


I am sure some fluid would get blown out just the same, so maybe tie a rag around it? :|

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Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:13 pm 
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:2cents:
why not just buy the speed bleed screws? That way you can bleed the brakes wherever you are with no problem, nice if you travel around the boondocks. They turn a PITA hour+ procedure for two people into a 40 minute one person job, with no extra tools required. I've used vacuum (which suck air) and pressure bleeds (which squirt fluid), and I think speed bleeds beat the other methods with a stick.

But it is supposed to be a free country, y'all suit yourselves! :SOMBRERO:

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:15 am 
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LMWatBullRun wrote:
:2cents:
why not just buy the speed bleed screws? That way you can bleed the brakes wherever you are with no problem, nice if you travel around the boondocks. They turn a PITA hour+ procedure for two people into a 40 minute one person job, with no extra tools required. I've used vacuum (which suck air) and pressure bleeds (which squirt fluid), and I think speed bleeds beat the other methods with a stick.

But it is supposed to be a free country, y'all suit yourselves! :SOMBRERO:


I bought the pressure bleeder, as a Sprinter mechanic told my the brake system has about 19 different valves, and pedal bleeding is not recommended. But the speed screws sound like a good idea, basically a check valve? I mainly use my pressure bleeder for fluid changes any ways, I never have the need to bleed on the road unless I am running an old rust bucket with brake lines failing.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:05 am 
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flman wrote:
LMWatBullRun wrote:
:2cents:
why not just buy the speed bleed screws? That way you can bleed the brakes wherever you are with no problem, nice if you travel around the boondocks. They turn a PITA hour+ procedure for two people into a 40 minute one person job, with no extra tools required. I've used vacuum (which suck air) and pressure bleeds (which squirt fluid), and I think speed bleeds beat the other methods with a stick.

But it is supposed to be a free country, y'all suit yourselves! :SOMBRERO:


I bought the pressure bleeder, as a Sprinter mechanic told my the brake system has about 19 different valves, and pedal bleeding is not recommended. But the speed screws sound like a good idea, basically a check valve? I mainly use my pressure bleeder for fluid changes any ways, I never have the need to bleed on the road unless I am running an old rust bucket with brake lines failing.


Yes, speed bleeds have a little check ball at the outlet, keeps the air from getting back in.

WRT age-
Well, the CRD is coming up on 8 years old, depending when yours was made, and some of them have done over 300k. Plus, it's a Jeep, and lots of them get driven off road, where nasty little saplings have a tendency to rip fluid lines out given any opportunity. Most smart off-roaders have spare brake hoses and spare fluid, but it can be a royal PITA to do it by yourself.....

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: Brake Fluid change
PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:09 am 
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Those speed bleeders are nice as long as you never take your KJ offroad and change your fluid at least every few months.Junk and internal corrosion will not play well with those.If one fails your SOL.


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