How do you test draw on a battery?

AZScout · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 12:47 am

I woke up this morning to a dead CRD. I had enough power to open the door locks and when I turned the ingition, all the lights on the dash flashed on and then no power. No lights, no doors, no nothing. I called roadside assistance and they took it into the Jeep dealer. I had to wrestle with the service manager over the phone after I got a ride to work because he said it was a dead battery and "where did I get the Optima?" He didn't believe it came stock and had to call Chrysler "to check". Anyway, they gave me a new battery and everything was done under warranty but now I'm concerned. He said they checked for a short and found no draw on the battery, but something is definitely wrong since the Optima only lasted 13 months. Being a newb at electrical troubleshooting, what is the easiest way to see if there is a draw on the battery or a short?

Thanks in advance,

Dave

hoku5 · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 1:20 am

Hi Dave,
I think that you had a bad battery from Optima since the dealer did not find any short or draw from the battery when the ignition is off. You might want to check your negative connection take it off and make sure you got a good ground.
Nolan

spoonplugger1 · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 1:41 am

Those two statements don't make sense in the same sentance.
If you have a short your 12 volt battery would now be a 10 volt battery or any multiple of 2 volts that weren't shorted. On a good battery to check it put a multmeter on DC voltage, hook it to the battery, kill the fuel supply to the engine some way and free crank the engine for 15 seconds, the voltage in the battery under load should never drop below 9 volts, if it does it's toast. Your alternator should be putting around 14.2 volts back to the battery when the engine is running.

AZScout · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 2:47 am

Thanks Nolan, good to hear from you...everyone was touting the Optima so I was wondering why it didnt last that long. You're probably right in that it was a bad one. Too bad I no longer have the fancy red one as the mopar issue is now just a standard non-gel. I'm going to make sure that it is the correct replacement for the CRD.

Spoon...thanks for the advice. Newb to electronics but what you say makes sense. I'll have to try it out.

Thanks again!

Wasatch15 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:52 am **Posts:** 242

Just because it is an "Optima" battery doesn't mean a thing. Even they can be made bad. I once put a new Optima into service starting a 4 cylinder emergency generator on a remote mountain top repeater site. It cost me a $1000.00 helicopter ride in the middle of the winter to replace it. Used a standard old flooded cell lead acid battery and its' going on three years now. Please don't be blinded by a name, look at the details of your immediate troubleshooting information.

NHKJ · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 9:56 am

I had the same thing happen to me this past weekend. The battery was stone dead, but I had parked it for 19 days while I was wheeling my TJ. I went to the dealer yesterday and they told me the problem was the computer(s) draw on the battery. They said I need to remove the IOD (ignition-off draw) fuse, if I'm going to park it for more than 2 weeks. The manual says 21 days (see page 349), but the dealer said they've been advised to recommend 2 weeks.

I've never heard this happening before with any vehicle. And I'm especially surprised given that the CRD comes with a deep cycle spiral-cell battery from the factory.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 6:53 pm

The reason for the optima battery is it's superior resistance to vibration. Vibration is the leading cause of battery failure on a diesel engine. Optima batts are spiral cell with a gel solution instead of vertical plates with acid/water solution. A much stronger and vibration resistant build. They are not deeep-cycle unless you buy the blue top Optima, nor do they put out more amps than a conventional batt. You could argue they last longer because of the way they are built and I think they should given their premium price tag- about $100.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 7:14 pm

NHKJ wrote:

(SNIP)And I'm especially surprised given that the CRD comes with a deep cycle spiral-cell battery from the factory.

Mine wasn't a deep cycle battery. That's the yellow top.

kickit_in4wheel · **Posted:** Thu May 04, 2006 3:18 am

For future reference, autozone has a unit that can check the battery, alternator, and starter at the same time. It's free. Other chain auto parts stores probably offer this too. They also can read check engine codes for free.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Thu May 04, 2006 10:29 am

Lets step back to the replacement for a minute, I would go back to the dealer and demand an Optima replacement and it should be part of the warranty on the Liberty and the CRD. DC put the optima in there for all the reasons mentioned and that should be what they replace it with. You wouldn't let them put a Neon transmission in to replace the 5 speed auto and you shouldn't let them do that with the battery either.

My 06 came with a blanket and heater too and I think the 05 did as well.

AZScout · **Posted:** Thu May 04, 2006 5:01 pm

Mopar has superseded the Optima with a gel battery of their own. It has 770 CCA which is 70 more than what is needed. I tried to get my optima back to see if I could charge it and have a spare, but they stated they needed it for warranty purposes. So, no more red-top but I dont seem to be having a problem with the new one. Thanks to all for the comments and advice.

Dave

How do you test draw on a battery?

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