missfire please help!!!!

06KJCRD · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:41 pm **Posts:** 5

Hello im new to the forum and so far it has been great it help me got my jeep running from an alternator problem i just bought the truck and it starter to missfire on idle when cold once you got to middle temp it ran good. but now it misses like crazy and has no power at all i disconnect the injector plugs one by one and find out that cylinder four is not working i check for air in the fuel i replace the fuel filter and nothing im guessing a clogged injector im thinking of getting the injector to a diesel shop my first question is if there is another way i can diagnose an unhappy cylinder 2: do i really need the injector removal tool 3: what do i have to do to deal with the high pressure in the line before disconnecting the common rail line to the injector. i worked on cars for years but i am completely new to diesel. i will appreciate your help so much i got a wife unhappier than the #4 cylinder and no money to take it to a shop. thanks!!!

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:06 pm

There are service manuals (references/links) available in the sticky's at the top of the CRD forum - I recommend you download them and review service procedures.

Probably don't need to remover tool (I didn't) - just be patient and work it free. The junk that builds up above the o-rings can make it challenging. I worked a BFS (big screwdriver) under the injector where the fuel enters (a kind of "Y") so I could get a little leverage as I turned it back and forth and lifted.

As for pressure - give it 30 minutes after shutting down and it'll be bled off long before you get to it.

Mark the injectors as you removed them - the computer is programmed for each to be in it's own spot, so that they're calibrated correctly.

Mark

06KJCRD · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:41 pm **Posts:** 5

Awesome I will get to work first thing in the morning I did download the manual it's been great help. But mainly I appreciate the tips thanks mark!!

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:25 am

You're welcome.

Oh, by the way.. when you remove the single bolt holding the injector clamp (Crow's foot), there is a single, steel button about the size of a hearing aid battery that sits under the far end of the crows foot (away from injector, under the single tang (or thumb?). It just sits in a little 'cup' in the aluminum engine cover.

Mine stayed put, but they're not really press fit and can come out rather easily. You won't get a secure seal without them, since the aluminum cover is rather soft by comparison.

Just be careful to keep track of them and make sure they're in place when you re-install the injectors.

Mark

06KJCRD · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:41 pm **Posts:** 5

Ok I switch the injectors from the cylinder not working to one the was fine and I got the same story the same cylinder is not working I unplowed the injector wire and it does no difference So im guessing the injector is not the problem i also hear the injector clicking with a esthetoscope and as i unplugged the connector it stops clicking so the ECM is sending signal I've read a couple post about people having problems with the rocker arms is there a way I can diagnose before start removing the valve cover?

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 6:51 pm

Depending on what the valves are doing, some have pulled the CAC hose from the intake manifold / FCV and hold a piece of paper in front - to see if there's a "puff" of outgoing air when the bad cylinder's piston rises. Of course, if the intake valves are staying completely shut, you won't see that.

What diagnostics you've done seem to indicate you've found the problem; not much left to do until you've pulled the cover.

Sorry bro.

Mark

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:42 pm

msilbernagel wrote:

Depending on what the valves are doing, some have pulled the CAC hose from the intake manifold / FCV and hold a piece of paper in front - to see if there's a "puff" of outgoing air when the bad cylinder's piston rises. Of course, if the intake valves are staying completely shut, you won't see that.

What diagnostics you've done seem to indicate you've found the problem; not much left to do until you've pulled the cover.

Sorry bro.

Mark

Suck blow check. Any blowing or popping = bad rockers.

06KJCRD · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:41 pm **Posts:** 5

Well just my luck .... It is popping air from the intake so im getting ready to start taking things apart just a couple of questions is it possible to to do this without the special timming tools like locking pins etc.. I figured I should replace timming belt and water pump since I'm there I can mark everything ans reassemble everything back according to the marks but how do I know it didn't jump time already and that cause the rocker arm to damage. Again only one cylinder is not working. I appreciate all the help !!

user113 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 13, 2013 12:44 am

The rocker arms in these engines just seem to wear themselves out, even without "jumping time." See:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74420

How many miles are on your engine?

06KJCRD · **Joined:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:41 pm **Posts:** 5

well i finally had some time to start taking things apart i havent take the valve cover i stop at a point were i took the timming belt cover and what i find is a timming belt with missing parts in a sequence i found that the genius that install the crankshaft pulley put one of the four bolts from some were else wich was longer and hit the belt. would it be possible that the timming skip. and that create all the missfire problems?? the pulleys have some marks on them by previews replaceing and i can make my own marks but i dont want to make new marks if the time is not correct.is it preety hard to put the engine on time? ive done a couple of them but all gas engines and theres no factory marks on this thing.i could get the miller locking pint if that's necessary

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:41 pm

You are going to need the locking pins VM.1052, VM.1053, VM.1089, and some equivalent of VM.1085 for the cam sprockets.

There are a lot of suggestions and even home made tools for the cam sprockets, my money is on the VM.1085, but it's expensive to even think about.

I would expect you're going to be changing intake and exhaust on 4 and probably 3 as well.

Order all 16 rockers, don't skimp. $339 (darn THAT IS CHEAP, sheesh) from ID Parts.

You will need the pins to set the timing, as they are the ONLY way to set the timing that is correct.

There are several of us here that will help and give advice, if you're close to Nashville I might be able to assist more than just on the forum, but you'd have to be pretty close.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:49 pm

06KJCRD wrote:

well i finally had some time to start taking things apart i haven't take the valve cover i stop at a point were i took the timing belt cover and what i find is a timing belt with missing parts in a sequence i found that the genius that install the crankshaft pulley put one of the four bolts from some were else which was longer and hit the belt. would it be possible that the timing skip. and that create all the misfire problems??

Yes (to skip/misfire), especially since the timing belt seems to be missing 'teeth'? Or, if not missing teeth, perhaps that long bolt grabbed or snagged the belt long enough to create drag and cause the belt to slip out of time.

06KJCRD wrote:

the pulleys have some marks on them by previews replacing and i can make my own marks but i don't want to make new marks if the time is not correct.

You don't need any marks - you use the pins. There is a factory mark (dimple) on the CP3 (high pressure fuel pump) pulley that aligns with a mark on the inside timing cover - everything else is aligned using the crank and cam pins.

06KJCRD wrote:

Is it pretty hard to put the engine on time?

No. Follow the instructions, double and triple check your work, and it will work every time. Just be methodical and thorough.

06KJCRD wrote:

I've done a couple of them but all gas engines and there's no factory marks on this thing. i could get the miller locking pint if that's necessary

It's wise to use the recommended pins and cam gear tool, and therefore should be considered necessary for most of us. There's very little margin for error - off a tooth and rockers start breaking when the valves hit the piston... runs rough, etc.

Others have made their own tools (pins, cam gear holder), with varying degrees of success. It's possible, but I wouldn't recommend it.

You can rent the cam tool from GDE, and pick up the pins fairly cheaply on eBay.

Mark

kjjet · **Posted:** Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:24 pm

06KJCRD wrote:

Well just my luck .... It is popping air from the intake so im getting ready to start taking things apart just a couple of questions is it possible to to do this without the special timming tools like locking pins etc.. I figured I should replace timming belt and water pump since I'm there I can mark everything ans reassemble everything back according to the marks but how do I know it didn't jump time already and that cause the rocker arm to damage. Again only one cylinder is not working. I appreciate all the help !!

MP me. I will send you all the procedures you need for timing belts and intake removal / install. Plus. .. tools needed.

missfire please help!!!!

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