Please help, timing belt issues / internal engine damage

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 3:01 pm

Hatfield wrote:

Mechanic is saying he is certain it is the #3 fuel injector leaking. This was replaced last year on May 19. After having the 2&3 injector replaced, my jeep starting having the exact same issues 2 weeks later. I then had it towed back into the dealership who diagnosed the issue as the #1 and 4 injector, which was replaced by the dealer at no charge to me. The #3 injector is literally 2 days out of warranty, so it is likely doubtful the dealership would do anything about it. If they did, I have to have it towed to the Chrysler dealership, about 60 miles or $150, and then have them perform their diagnosis to determine if it is in fact the injector. If they determine it's not the injector then I'm on the hook who know's how much more $$$.

All I want right now is to get the freakin thing running so I can drive it into a dealership and trade it in. If I can get $5K for it at this point, I would be thrilled.

Injector? NO WAY. People here have over 300k on them. The #3 cylinder is prob not firing due to the valves are not opening cause the rockers are broken. Do not take it to the dealer, you will be wasting your $$$$ Do a Suck blow check. Then find a good CRD mechanic to do the work.

Hatfield · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 9:54 am **Posts:** 22

Many thanks to you guys for helping me troubleshoot this issue.

I called the mechanic back and suggested he take off the intake hose to see what he could hear from there. I also mentioned that I want to exhaust all efforts before spending $700 on a new injector. He didn't even verify if the rockers had failed and said it was a good idea that I suggested he try that course of action first. The guy is a freaking moron, but there is seriously no other shop to take it to within 75 miles of here. The only other diesel shop in town is backed up for a good 2 weeks and he can't even give me an estimate on the rocker replacement as he know's he's going in behind someone else and has to verify the timing and all is correct before replacing the rockers. I'm likely looking at upwards of $1,000 in labor on that job alone.

I'm going car shopping today, I've got to get a new vehicle. If we verify it is the rockers, I'll likely have it towed to my drive way and let the POS sit until I can figure out what to do with it. I really needed to sell or trade my jeep in for a down payment, but I no longer have that luxury, I've gotta find something this week.

Any ideas or suggestions what I could ask for it as it sits,with timing belt just replaced but in need of a rocker job? From what Geordi has mentioned, replacing the rockers is not an easy job and I'm in no way confident this mechanic can do it and I have no other place that can.

kjjet · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 3:12 pm

Your not going to get the Rockers replaced for $1000.00. The Parts are around that + labor. It is a labor intensive job. My guess would be $1000 to $1600 for labor. At the dealer? $2500.00

Good luck. As you know the CRD is a fun Jeep until it breaks and they do.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 3:26 pm

I just looked at IDParts.com, which is probably the cheapest now. Just the parts for your timing belt/rockers lifters job are $1000.

You might subtract a bit if he put new idlers in, but that's considering the fact that he still may have damaged a cam or valve. Belt is going to have to be replaced NO MATTER WHAT, you're going to have to do all 16 rockers NO MATTER WHAT, tensioner is going to have to be replaced NO MATTER WHAT. Plus you're still going to need new copper crush washers, o-rings for the injectors, and an intake gasket, 2 gallons of antifreeze, 16 rockers and lifters, and a crapload of time.

Might subtract for the water pump if he did that, but maybe not there too if the belt damaged it or the bearings.

If you get someone to do the work for under $800 you're getting a deal. I wouldn't do it for a friend for under that much, but I have done it and know how much work it is. Not all the way to the rockers.

I would do a straight timing belt job for someone much cheaper than that, but you're past that point now.

I'm sorry this happened to you brother, I've been there and know as do a lot of us here.

I really wish you were closer to me, I could help you get it up and running.

You should ask your original mechanic to see his VM.1052 and VM.1053, as well as his VM.1085 or equivalent, and ask him if he used the witness marks.

There aren't any witness marks, it's a trick question.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 5:24 pm

Hexus, I have to disagree with your estimates a bit, it isn't all that bad.

Firstly, the idlers only need to be messed with or replaced if they are loose or ejecting grease. Not one of the CRDs I have worked on has actually needed those at just 100k miles. Same for the water pump and the tensioner.

The valve cover doesn't have any water jackets in it, so you aren't opening the water system to get at that. You do have to take out the inner cover however, which is an annoying job. The water pump is right there at that point, so it wouldn't hurt to do that while you have the inner cover off.

The belt should already be new from this monkey, so no need to buy that again. You WILL need a full set of 16 rockers, that is ~$340 or so. Crush washers are maybe $2 for all of them from a Bosch shop, if they charge you at all. The o-rings are dirt-seals only, and can be sourced from Home Depot if you are so inclined. Also very cheap.

Eric: If you get the thing moved to your driveway, we can talk about the labor to do the repair and then you can decide to keep or sell it. I wouldn't sell it as-is right now however, the difference really is as much as $6000 between running and not running, for a simple and designed failure point. The money that you have paid to this mechanic should not be lost, as he has not successfully provided the services that you contracted him for. In actuality, his incompetence will be costing you more, why should you have to pay him for causing more problems? Visa will side with you on this, just get your vehicle back.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue May 21, 2013 9:40 pm

My contention and thought was that the timing belt he just put in would be either damaged or stretched due to the problems encountered and should be replaced. If you disagree with that fine, but me personally, I would replace it out of safety sake because I (Like You) have lived this expense in person.

My argument with replacing the idlers is: "If you're in there anyways, why not replace with new? It's a small expense for the piece of mind it provides and while new parts are known to have defects and fail at times, they don't fail nearly as much as old used ones." HOWEVER, if he is just repairing it to sell, which may be the case, I suppose inspection and re-use of the idlers is not unheard of, many who plan to keep their Jeep have done this, but I personally would not.

I removed the Radiator and Intercooler and basically the whole front end to do my work because I'm 6'3" and have fists the size of Hams. If you can get in there and do all that work without doing that, I envy you and more power to you.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 1:54 am

Hexus wrote:

My contention and thought was that the timing belt he just put in would be either damaged or stretched due to the problems encountered and should be replaced. If you disagree with that fine, but me personally, I would replace it out of safety sake because I (Like You) have lived this expense in person.

My argument with replacing the idlers is: "If you're in there anyways, why not replace with new? It's a small expense for the piece of mind it provides and while new parts are known to have defects and fail at times, they don't fail nearly as much as old used ones." HOWEVER, if he is just repairing it to sell, which may be the case, I suppose inspection and re-use of the idlers is not unheard of, many who plan to keep their Jeep have done this, but I personally would not.

I removed the Radiator and Intercooler and basically the whole front end to do my work because I'm 6'3" and have fists the size of Hams. If you can get in there and do all that work without doing that, I envy you and more power to you.

Ok, I will admit to having moderate sized hands... But I also think that by pulling the radiator and the front stack, you also create enough room that a 900 lb gorilla could work in there with a bulldozer! :ROTFL:

I know the factory book suggests draining the AC and the radiator and pulling the whole stack, I never could understand why unless the mechanic was planning to sit on a chair behind the bumper. To me, that just opens up a whole world of other potential problems.

I will say that I forgot about the cams - that is a potential place for problems depending on what is discovered. I'm hopeful that there isn't any damage, based on our conversations about how the failures happened. It does seem that this mechanic may have fixed the cams being out-of-time, and installed a new belt... Completely ignoring the potential (as we know to be a certainty) that the rockers were trashed. That is the main thing that gives me pause... But we won't know anything until the top is popped. Even pulling the oil spout and trying to have a look with a scope... I don't know if that would even be useful, the labor still has to be done to validate the scope.

As far as the belt stretching from slipping timing again... I won't say it isn't possible, but I find that highly unlikely. I tend to think (in comparing old and used to new) that much of the 'stretch' is actually the tooth material on the belt simply wearing down in thickness. The belt itself has layers of kevlar in it. That stuff doesn't stretch, the rubber is just the friction and backing material to protect the kevlar. We would know while assembling it anyway, and the tensioner has the ability to recover a LOT of slack from where a fresh belt sets it. As long as the tension is happy, the timing won't fail from that. Elsewhere... Is another story of course.

I agree with the mindset of swapping parts 'because you are in there' if you don't have the tools / guts to go back in a second time. The decision comes from the place Hatfield's mind is at. I don't know if he wants to get out of the Jeep entirely, or keep it. He has made no bones about how expensive the repairs have been (probably at least some that weren't needed, danged dealer incompetence) so I will happily offer the counterpoint of 'this is the bare bones needed to get it running' so at least he has all the information.

I still have some thinking to do on my own labor and travel to help him out with this. At least the advantage is a set of eyes / hands that have seen this before, and if he does want to sell to a member here, I can offer an honest assessment of how deep the catastrophe goes.

Hatfield · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 9:54 am **Posts:** 22

Just as I thought things couldn't get any worse.......mechanic never checked to see if the rockers have failed. It was my understanding that he was doing that yesterday. He called me this morning and told me that there is a place locally where I can test the injector. I have told this mechanic time and time again what you all have told me, that engine is meant to fail at the rockers. Why would I want to continue throwing money into an injector that was replaced 12 months ago, when the obvious solution is staring him in the face?

I've arranged for towing later this afternoon to get it away from this guy as he has proven that he is beyond clueless with my jeep. I've been calling around to auto salvage yards all morning and have made myself absolutely sick listening to the various offers.

My main concern now, if when the mechanic was replacing the timing belt, how difficult would it have been for him at that time to make the determination that the rockers have failed? He's got the thing put back together now and said he's looking at a 7 hour job just to get to the rockers. I just don't know why he wouldn't have suspected the rockers as being the fail point of that engine, that is unless he doesn't know what the heck he's doing, which seems to be the case.

I'm at a holding point now. I would gladly entertain Geordi driving over to look at it for me, but as I mentioned to him in my pm, my concern is having this thing diagnosed properly before he gets here. If I can't get that narrowed down, then I have a feeling I would just be wasting time and money in having Geordi make the drive my way. He would have to make his diagnosis, then we play the waiting game for the parts to arrive. So my current dilemma is how to properly diagnose the current issue so I can have all the parts ready and waiting for him if I decide to go that route. I have 2 chrysler dealerships in my area, both of which will charge me tons of $$$ to make any determination and there is only 1 other diesel shop near me. They also mentioned that they would likely charge extra $$$ for going in behind another shop, additionally, they are backed up for at least 2 weeks.

As much as it pains me to say it, I am beyond clueless when it comes to anything mechanical so I have less confidence in myself in doing any of the work than the wrench monkey currently destroying my engine. I really wish I wasn't so busy chasing tail, working on my curve ball and 3 point shot growing up. At 35 years old, I can no longer jump, my arm is shot and women are still women. It sickens me to think I could have learned a useful lifelong skill with being mechanically competent instead of focusing my time and efforts elsewhere. I'm learning and you guys are some really great teachers, but I haven't the time or energy to devote into taking on this task at the moment.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 3:37 pm

I could have told you the answers you would have gotten asking around at salvage yards... And I think every member here would jump all over you for consigning a CRD (one of a dwindling number) to the choppers... We will get this sorted for you Eric.

Let me calm some of your concerns for the moment:

There is ZERO way that the grease monkey could have --with 100% certainty of the answer-- validated the rockers without physically removing the valve cover. To do that, he would need to pull the inner timing cover (this also needs to come out to do a water pump) and pull the cam gears. Then remove the entire fuel rail and all 4 injectors. It isn't a small job, but it has to be done.

There is a --MARGINAL-- chance that simply rotating the cams independently with the crankshaft at the proper place (90 ATDC) that rocker damage could be felt. This would be like trying to teach yourself to be a safecracker by touch... When having never tried before. The problem with that is knowing how to interpret what you feel. No matter what, the top would STILL need to come off to validate the feelings. If your mechanic didn't pull the valve cover to look... He knows exactly the same as you do. We only know more based on past experiences.

As far as doing the job in your driveway and what parts would be needed... Spend a couple minutes and call idparts, talk to Corey. He is a member here, but he might not be aware of your situation. Explain that you will be having me do the work, but you would like to know your options for returning any parts that may not be needed once we tear the thing down. That way, you have the parts on-hand when I'm there, (which eliminates the risk of waiting for parts) and if they aren't needed... You can get that money back.

My suggestion for what you will need from him, all bought SEPARATELY from any kit that might be available:
Timing belt $90
(two) timing belt idler rollers, $38 each
Water pump $250
Timing belt tensioner $107
-------------------------- That is the timing kit, except for the gaskets. Ask him if he can give you a better deal on any of that, because you don't really need the gaskets. The savings from the kit price is only about $35, and he charges $109 on the gasket set. The advantage to doing it separately is if you decide you don't need an individual item, you should be able to get that money back. By the same token, this is the complete kit of parts I would suggest if we were starting fresh at the 100k mile service.

Now... The top end parts that you will --absolutely-- require from idparts:
Rocker set. Complete. $339.
Injector washer / o-ring kit: $8.

Hopefully that is all that you need. IF you want to stay with the belt that the mechanic put in there, that saves you $90 right away, but I wouldn't trust that he replaced anything unless he can provide you the old parts.

Unfortunately, the complete set of parts you are looking at is $875 plus shipping. The upside is that for that price plus my labor, you are getting at least $6000 in return of selling price. That is a VERY good return on the investment.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 3:50 pm

I'll rep Geordi as well, I had talked with him and was going to do my top end rebuild with him before I bit the bullet and did it myself.

He's good people and knows what he's talking about, and he's right about your ROI too.

kjjet · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 3:56 pm

Wow... geordi you must really miss working on your CRD. You should get another one!

Hatfield...I must say that's a great offer. If you still want to drive the CRD? you can't pass this up. You will be in good hands. Just ask geordi not to pass any bad luck on to your connecting rods?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed May 22, 2013 4:08 pm

kjjet wrote:

Wow... geordi you must really miss working on your CRD. You should get another one!

Hatfield...I must say that's a great offer. If you still want to drive the CRD? you can't pass this up. You will be in good hands. Just ask geordi not to pass any bad luck on to your connecting rods?

Get another one? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! :ROTFL:

I managed to escape that crazy italian broad after she cost me an arm, leg, and half the family jewels... I'm not that crazy to consider ever getting another Mopar.

I do appreciate the rarity of these however, and want to pass along my hard-earned knowledge of this engine to the people that can most benefit from it. Call it building up karma to atone for Chrysler's misdeeds. I feel like I have this set of skills, it would be a waste to just walk away from this group of afflicted owners and not share the help when people need it.

As for not passing on any bad luck in the install... Heh, I don't really believe in cursed vehicles, but these Jeeps make a strong case for changing my beliefs. I wouldn't wish my experience on my worst enemy.

The fleas of a thousand camels, infesting his armpits and crotch... Now THAT, I might wish upon him... And whoever at Chrysler changed this engine for the US market. :ROTFL:

Hatfield · **Joined:** Fri May 10, 2013 9:54 am **Posts:** 22

Geordi, thank you for the in depth response. I'm completely on board with this. I didn't get off work in time to get the tow done today, but I will take care of it tomorrow.

And I know all about curses, I'm an overly obsessive Chicago Cubs fan. Maybe it's just a coincidence that the Cubs overall performance seems to be about on par with the current state of my engine.

I'm convinced all the bad juju is gone on my end and any further repairs will go down flawlessly. (Must repeat x 10)

As I mentioned in my pm last night, I have to report to jury duty on June 6th. I plan on taking the Neil deGrasse Tyson approach and inform them that I can in no way convict someone based upon the relative unreliability of eye witness testimony. It has worked for him a few times in the past. However, I'm not a brilliant astrophysicist, hell I can't even diagnose a simple mechanical issue with my car. I doubt my lame attempt to get out of fulfilling my civic duty will be well received by the courts. I shall do as instructed, don't want no more bad juju.

I've never had jury duty before so I'm hoping it will be an in and out type thing, but the way my luck is going lately, being sequestered is not out of the question. I'm thinking right around a month from now, just to be safe. I would entertain doing this before June 6th, but that will be totally dependent upon your schedule. I will gladly do this at your convenience and your leisure, so please let me know what would work best for you. I wouldn't even mind doing all the work if you wouldn't mind providing the instruction and guidance. I spent my extended lunch hour today watching COrobotchicken's youtube videos of him changing out the timing belt / water pump and learned more about engines in an hour than I have my whole life. Baby steps, I won't learn this overnight, but every bit of knowledge I can acquire helps.

I believe I still have your number, so if you wouldn't mind, I could give you a shout sometime this week and perhaps we could discuss the fee you would charge for your services. I'm going to hate myself for selling this jeep after I get it fixed up. By far and away my favorite car I've ever owned, I just can't deal with the hardships that go along with it. I have to buy a new car this week, but I'm ok with that now. Would be great if I can get the jeep fixed up and sell the thing to pay off the debt I've gone into while trying to fix it over the years.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

geordi wrote:

Sorry that it is the timing, that sucks a bit. However, your mechanic is proving that he hasn't ever seen any of these before either. Warranties and insisting on dealer-or-mopar parts (especially for these) is a dead giveaway.

Tell your mechanic you aren't worried about the parts warranty - You will provide whatever parts are required, but you want a warranty from him IN WRITING that he agrees to replace anything that is damaged because of bad installation. He shouldn't have a problem with this, and specifically you want this because his failure to properly set the timing is the main place he can screw up. The torque on the tensioner bolt IS CRITICAL AND ONLY *****TWENTY EIGHT POUNDS***** The mechanic screwing this up cost me 2 sets of rockers, because the dumbarse didn't read the manual that I GAVE HIM, and I was too dumb at the time to know I was being ripped off for the cost of the rockers. None of the parts that are suggested from here will fail within the part warranty period, I can guarantee that. Why? Because these are THE SAME PARTS - they are just being sourced directly and not with Mopar's upcharge-for-the-fun-of-it.

As I said before - the belt is about $75 on Amazon, this is the GENUINE Gates brand belt, the EXACT SAME BELT that you get from Mopar for $200. Let him 'not warranty' the belt. You don't need to care. You aren't asking for a PARTS warranty, you want his LABOR to be quality. The belt will be good for 100k miles easily.

The rockers are sourced directly from The VM Specialist (google, look for the .co.uk address) or from IDparts.com which should have the same ones in stock now. $340 or less, and GENUINE VM Motori parts. Ain't no knock-off chinese crap happening here.

Let me know if you want me to talk him through any of the teardown or jump in on this, doing the rockers sucks as a job, but it is the designed failure point for a broken timing belt. There shouldn't be any other damage. DO NOT LET HIM TAKE THE HEAD OFF.

Firstly, that is a big increase in the cost for you on labor... And the head can be tested IN PLACE with a simple blowgun and rubber tip into the injector hole. If it holds pressure (lock the crankshaft with a wrench first) on each cylinder - the valves are fine.

So, Geordi, did you buy this timing belt?: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK265B-Tim ... uctDetails
And do you have to change the timing belt at 100.000 miles or does the timing belt brakes at 100.000 miles so that you better change it before?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:14 am

That link takes you to some sort of timing belt and pulley "kit" that doesn't appear to be for a KJ CRD. The belt you want is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NY ... UTF8&psc=1 or if you are doing the whole job including water pump then IDparts has a good deal on everything you need.

Timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 miles. If you don't drive a lot IMHO it's a good idea to factor in time in which case I'd say 100,000 miles or 6-7 years whichever comes first and if you change it based on years not miles you probably don't "have" to do new idlers/tensioner as long as they are not leaking grease and spin freely as they wear based on miles not time. I say this mainly because I don't trust a belt to last forever based on time if you get my drift. Some have made it way past 100,000 miles on an original belt but I would not risk it.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

My Liberty is at about 81,000 miles and since it was purchased in 2006 it has 6 1/2 years of use... I am still hesitant on if to replace it or not... Should I?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:58 pm

If you have to ask... You already know the answer. Yes, you certainly should be considering it.

This is a critical component, and while it might be made of kevlar and rubber... Nothing lasts forever, and WHEN it fails (not if) the results will not be cheap.

The link from our head technical librarian, Papaindigo, is spot-on. That is the belt you would want.

Consider this - The 2006 CRD would have been manufactured sometime prior to July or August 2006, as early as June 2005 possibly. So worst case, you have a vehicle with EIGHT years of existence with this same belt. If you have a 2005 model year... Accounting for transportation times and the build-up to a new model year's introduction around September each year... The first 2005 CRDs might have been actually built back in June 2004!

So you have potentially as much as 9 years on that belt, if it was one of the first to ever be manufactured, or as little as 7 years if you bought it new right near the end of the model run. 7 years. On a rubber belt. Rubber tires with STEEL in them are strongly suggested to be replaced after just 5 years. Most motorhome tires never wear out from mileage, they are changed (or fail) due simply to age and rubber breakdown.

Where are you at in the country? Hot weather isn't kind to rubber either, but depending on your location, I might be available to help you change out that belt for a fresh one. Whether you elect to swap out everything else (rollers, tensioner, water pump) is a choice, but I haven't seen where those items go bad just from age - they wear based on miles, and even then... The pulleys and tensioner have all been fine in every CRD I have opened up. The absolute minimum would be to change out that belt, and take a wait-and-see approach on everything else. There are more than a couple members here that haven't changed the water pump out, and gotten far longer than 100k on it. The factory pump is a pretty good piece.

mtgstuber · **Joined:** Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:15 pm **Posts:** 66

Hgrimberg,
Yes you need to do the timing belt, but I'd be more worried about everything else. if you haven't been running a GDE tune, or some mod that disables EGR, you've been pumping soot back into your engine. This kills the needle bearings in the rockers. I had no idea. I bought mine new and scrupulously followed the owners manual with regular oil changes, diffential gear oil changes, synthetic 0W-40 etc, and mine failed right where yours is: 81,000 miles.
I don't know if you're mechanically inclined, but if you want to keep yours, buy all the parts, including the rockers, take a week off work, and do the whole lot. Then do something about the EGR. Being clueless about the issue, I ended up with at least one bad valve and had to tear mine all the way down to the head gasket.
My only saving grace was that I have more vehicles than drivers and a very, very, very patient wife.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 12, 2013 8:33 am

I've obviously weighed in on the side of considering time in addition to miles driven with respect to changing the timing belt. To that I would add what's your general miles per year driven. Consider 2 scenarios:
1. mine - 05 CRD purchased used (replaced 05 CRD rear ended by dump truck) Sept 2008 at 26,500 miles; currently at 48,400 miles; add that I am retired and looking at my last 2 years of driving which shows about 4,000 miles per year; do the math; I'm most certainly not waiting another 12-13 years to do the belt. Spend $70 plus several hours to toss on a new belt and don't worry.
2. another - 81,000 miles but you drive the normal national average of about 12-15,000 miles per year; I like to keep a 6,000 mile service interval (don't trust any oil past that time frame) which brings a TB change into view at ca. 96,000 or 102,000 so pick the lower interval; if you drive 15,000 miles per year that's only 1 year away and if you own an 06 you can probably do that with no problem.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

papaindigo wrote:

I've obviously weighed in on the side of considering time in addition to miles driven with respect to changing the timing belt. To that I would add what's your general miles per year driven. Consider 2 scenarios:
1. mine - 05 CRD purchased used (replaced 05 CRD rear ended by dump truck) Sept 2008 at 26,500 miles; currently at 48,400 miles; add that I am retired and looking at my last 2 years of driving which shows about 4,000 miles per year; do the math; I'm most certainly not waiting another 12-13 years to do the belt. Spend $70 plus several hours to toss on a new belt and don't worry.
2. another - 81,000 miles but you drive the normal national average of about 12-15,000 miles per year; I like to keep a 6,000 mile service interval (don't trust any oil past that time frame) which brings a TB change into view at ca. 96,000 or 102,000 so pick the lower interval; if you drive 15,000 miles per year that's only 1 year away and if you own an 06 you can probably do that with no problem.

I bought the belt Geordi suggested. Not the pulleys. I hope my mechanic once he opens the belt cover, he will be able to tell me if the pulleys need replacement. I can't understand how a pulley can be damaged for just rotating for many years.

Please help, timing belt issues / internal engine damage

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