Thanks Parker. As Doc said, it would be great if you could address the known issues - and then - of course I don't know if you have this capability but if you could indicate some numbers so we actually are not just guessing....as you know --> the more data the better info we can offer.
Its quite a bit of work but the only way to get anything other than speculation is to provide us with more precise details.
If you do go down the quick relearn pathway, perhaps they could do a transmission error read and ask them to read the conditions that create it. That should be retrievable with DRBIII.
So Good luck mate. Its really strange that on any auto it seems it rains with issues then you sail freely for a short while. They never just trickle along so it's easy to deal with.

You did not indicate whether you installed the ECU and TCM tunes at the same time, or???

If you had a shudder problem other than at 58 mph prior to ANY tunes, you definitely had a problem that is NOT common and would not have been fixed by a simple TC replacement. I would expect the TCM tune to make it MUCH worse because most of the time, the stock TCM unlocks the TC every time you just touch the throttle (except at 58 mph). So, with the TCM tune, your TC is locked MOST of the time, so if you have, for example, inadequate line pressure for successful locking, you will have shudder all over.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I did the TCM towing tune and ECU ECO full torque tune at the same time.
I did not notice any issues with the slip joint. It came off and went back on easily. Is their anything I should do to the slip joint. I would not think you lubricate it since that would trap dirt and stuff in the lube and cause wear.

Sorry Auberon I missed one of your post. ATF+4 is all that has been used. I even provided the fluids to the shop to insure the correct fluids were used.

With the GDE tune does the TC lockup in third with O/D turned off? I have been turning off O/D up to about 45 mph to keep from getting the violent shudders but it still shudders.

If I go the relearn route I will definitely see what all info they can give me.

At this point I think I am going to replace the rear bushings. Then replace the filters again. It appears that it does not have OEM filters. I can not guarantee that it had OEM filters in it before but with absolutely no change between sets of filters logic would say that is not the problem but again I need OEM filters in there either way.

If the slip joint is dry, it will bind under load and cause a lot of vibration, but that is unlikely your main problem. While you are working on other things, like the rear end, I would either not drive it, or if you must, see if you can borrow a stock TCM from Keith. You will get MUCH less shudder because the TC will be told to unlock every time you touch the throttle.

I doubt the non-OEM filters are the problem, though you are wise to put OEM filters in to eliminate one variable and also eliminate the drain-back problem that is common with many aftermarket filters.

I wonder if there is some way to check the line pressure with the trans installed and under load to see if the pump is not providing what is needed to firmly lock the TC.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Wanted to give an update. I had the rear upper and lower control arm bushings replaced and the upper ball joint. One side of the lower control arms was not replaced due to the wrong part being shipped but it will be replaced as soon as it comes in.
This nearly eliminated the shudder that I was experiencing and fully expect the shudder to be completely eliminated when the final 2 lower control arm bushings are replaced. It is my suspicion that the bushings were allowing the axle to rotate and changing the pinion angle enough to cause the vibration/shudder. I can not iterate enough how much this felt like a transmission issue due to the shift points causing it to be worse. I will post an update after the final bushings are changed.

Thanks to all those who have offered advice. Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

Thanks for the update!!!

You mind posting part numbers for the different bushings / approximate costs? I am having the same problems with my Jeep. I think / thought it was the TC going out, but it only occurs on shifts...

Interesting stuff!

Yea, I will look them up. Do you have trouble with torque steer at acceleration and deceleration? If you do not have that then more then likely it is not the bushings.

Ordered from Partstrain.com

Part #: 52128864AA
2005 Jeep Liberty Limited Crown Control Arm Bushing Control Arm Bushing Liberty|Limited
Crown
Qty: 2.00
Price: $ 11.88

Part #: 52088647AB
2005 Jeep Liberty Limited Crown Ball Joint Ball Joint Liberty|Limited
Crown
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 35.72

Part #: 52129094AA
2005 Jeep Liberty Limited Crown Control Arm Bushing Control Arm Bushing Liberty|Limited
Crown
Qty: 2.00
Price: $ 10.00

Ordered from Quadratec
2 56015 1006 REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHING 99-04 WJ 52088425 19.98

I drive like a grandma's grandma. I will check on my way home. The vehicle does pull to the left a bit.

I didn't notice anything strange with respect to torque / brake steer. My passenger rear tire was only at 20 lbs though, so that could account for the pulling. I also have new rear lower control arms and bushings due to the recall.

How did you replace the rear upper ball joint? Did you pull the whole triangle out?

I would replace the entire triangle. My mechanic spent a lot of time trying to get the ball joint out with the right tools. Would of been cheaper after counting labor to replace the whole thing.

Well I ended up having my problem solved via the addition of a new rear upper control arm too.

I have the GDE engine tune (eco - full torque) and trans tune. I have noticed that full throttle shifts would result in what appeared as torque converter shudder. I had begun to set money aside for a new TC when I happened upon this post.

I ended up getting the Raybestos complete rear upper control arm, as it was only 100 bucks shipped from Amazon. I figured I would take a look at my old control arm and see if it is in good enough condition to replace the bearing and bushings in it, otherwise I will get the mopar one in the future.

FYI, it was a royal pain to get the control arm out. It sure made me work for it!!

Anyways, the shuddering has appeared to stop, so all is well for my Jeep for now. I have the timing belt to do soon, so that will be even more fun.

Well, the shuddering has decreased, but it is still there...

hmm.... I guess I need to start looking at transmission mounts and the u-joints?

Same with me. Shudder is better but still there. Already replaced ujoints so going for transmission mount and left motor mount. Already replaced the right.

Ideally we would have been doing this to minimize the amount of money being spent on this, but it doesn't look that way.

I replaced my motor mounts a couple of years ago, only one was bad.

Interesting issue we have, I too have the GDE engine and transmission tune...

parker, is your transmission kind of clunky during gear shifts up / down in the lower gears under very light throttle conditions?

My first and second gear changes are very smooth. I pulled my camper to the beach this past week and I drove it to give a very detailed description of what it is now doing.

1st and 2nd are smooth shifts. Under light throttle Shift to third at app. 30 mph is the worse and it actually shudders severely. Mild vibration continues until almost 40 where the rpms drop a few hundred RPM and it gets another shudder and then grabs and goes. A mild vibration is felt during all of 4th and 5th gears getting slightly more pronounced at the up and down shifts. All 3rd gear vibration can be skipped by accelerating faster through 3rd but 4th and 5th vibration still there. I can hold 2nd until 40 mph then manually shift up and no vibration except mild vibration in 4th and 5th.

Does anyone else's GDE Tow tune have this rpm drop under light throttle just before 40 mph? I mentioned it to Keith when I first got the tune but he led me to believe it was normal and part of the gas saving features. It almost feels like it shifts from 3rd to 5th then down shifts to 4th because it is losing RPM.

I have GDE transmission tune ( not tow) and I have recently started having hard 2-3 shifts at any throttle position. It started all of a sudden. Euro TC and shift kit installed 15000 miles ago. Makes me wonder if my trams tune is malfunctioning.

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SOLD - 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Gen2 Fuel Head - Magnaflow Exhaust - Ram transmission swap - In-Tank Lift Pump
Moab Wheels - 245/75/R16 LR E Cooper Discoverer AT3 Tires - OME Lift 790/90009 948/60069 - Etecno Glow Plugs - V6 Airbox
Pic of my Jeep!

Could be bad filters or a problem in the valve body. Most likely the solenoid pack.

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U.S. Army Retired

If you installed the resistor that fools trans pressure that came with the TransGo kit, remove it. My 2-3 shifts would rattle your teeth...but not all the time. I called TransGo and that was their recommendation. Not a hard 2-3 shift since.

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2011 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins Deleted w/MiniMaxx G56 HDD 5W-30 & Bypass Oil Filter
2005 Liberty CRD Limited (Cracked Block) Sold
2015 Cherokee Latitude 3.2L V6 (Replaced CRD)
1992 Dodge Stealth RT Twin Turbo Pearl White/Black Leather
2008 Kubota GR2110 Diesel
2006 Key West 186 Sportsman w/135HP Honda OB
1943 Farmall H Restored