This is my first post but a long time lurker here. I have a 2005 CRD with 113K and have had it since day one. I absolutely love this jeep. I went 105,000 miles without having to do any repairs. Heck even the original brakes front and rear lasted 105K! All I have ever done are regular oil changes and cleaned the pesky MAP sensor. Timing belt (whole shebang, WP, Tensioner, etc..) was done at 105K by Medved Jeep in Castle Rock, CO.

Since I am in the metro Denver, CO area I am subject to emissions testing......

This past Saturday I was out for a leisurely drive up in Breckenridge, CO on highway 9 when the turbo when "BANG" lots of grinding noise and lots of white smoke. I shut it down and had it towed to Faircy Boys Jeep in Colorado Springs. They confirmd the Turbo "Blew Up". Quoted me $6,500 to replace turbo. I got my trailer and brought it home. I wasn't going to play their game. They wanted to sell me Turbo $2,475, Exh Manifold $711, intercooler $865, Hoses $421 Labor $2,000.

I have spoken with Keith at GDE. Wonderful guy and thanks for answering my questions.

Last winter I noticed that it took forever for the Jeep heat up inside. After reading posts It looks like my coolant is jelled in the Heater core. Aparently flushing at the time of the Timing belt R&R did not clean out the HC. I have never had any over heating, coolant loss or coolant lights on but after reading posts about head (gasket) (TTY bolt) issues it looks like I have another issue to worry about. (Reduced coolant flow from HC, underpowerd WP = not good)

I am contemplating doing this my self, the consideration is time. I have the tools and experience with GM vehicles.

Questions:
=Any tips for flusing the HC? I see it mentioned but no specifics, if not I'll consider a write up.
=I will do a writeup on the turbo...
=I would like to replace the head bolts with ARP studs. I called ARP and they do not have anything specific or know what other application fits. I'm hoping others that have done this will post what application they used.

Thanks,
TJ

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2005 CRD Sport - Bone stock - 113K miles - RIP Original Turbo 7/13/2013

Sorry to hear about the trouble but you were way over due not having any issues until 105,000!!

I don't know much about the head issue but the turbo is not a bad job if you have basic wrench knowledge. just make sure you soak the manifold bolts with pb blaster or similar a day or two before the job as I have read about the studs breaking.

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Here is the link to the ARP head studs write ups and all the information read it all the way through as this was and experimental process and the torque specs changed a few times (ARP Head Studs Link) The turbo is pretty easy just take your time don't want to break anything. And all your gaskets and things can be had from Keith aat GDE and a turbo if he has any left.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

Hey, sorry 'bout your Jeep. When you are cleaning up the rubble from the turbo, be sure you clean out the intercooler and all the plumbing. Don't want any of that getting into the cylinders.

Good luck with the repairs, and folks more knowledgeable than I will help you. There are a few of 'em around here.

Turbo is super simple and can be done in your driveway in 3 hours taking your time.

What heater core are you talking about? Your thermostat is probably shot, as so many of them are.

Why did he want you to replace the intercooler? Did stuff get into it?

At most, a reputable turbo should cost you $1200.

I'd like to see some pictures of your Turbo.

A lot of this isn't adding up.

You can get Samco/Mishimoto hoses cheaper than $421, they quoted you OEM?

Are you sure you didn't trash the rockers/lifters? A lot of people THINK they have turbo issues (me included) but find out after replacing the turbo that nothing has changed.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Faricy Boys should rename themselves as Faricy Crooks. The Faricy brother's who inheritid the business from their father are very greedy.

@blackss,

1. Is there ANY possibility of a non HOAT coolant getting into your HC?

2. Why in the WORLD didn't you drive to Ft. Collins and have Sam do the TB job???

Since I had the fan and shroud removed, Sam cut me an (almost incredible) deal for TB, WP, pulleys, etc.

3. racertracer (at some point in time) did a write-up regarding HC flush. IIRC, it amounted to removing hoses and hooking up a garden hose to inlet.

4. I have a strange idea lodged in the back of my mind that many turbo troubles are caused as a result of inadequate cool-down procedures.

Probably doesn't apply here, though.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

A very cogent point. GIven the propensity this engine has shown for rocker wear WHEN MAINTAINED AND OPERATED PER THE OWNER"S MANUAL, I would plan to take a look at the rockers.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

TJ,

A second opinion from a CRD mechanic would be very worthwhile. You will be able to check the rockers/valvetrain when installing the studs. Hope it works out well.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Update: I have the turbo and intercooler out. The turbo split the shaft, its in two pieces. The intercooler was completely full of oil. There is no oil left in the crank case. I will enlist the help of the resources on this website from now on! I'm done with dealers and shops, this jeep is rare and too valueable to let some shop screw it up.

The Turbo came out relatively easy, easier than I expected. The intercooler was a bit more of a challenge as a lot of the front end had to come apart. Good thing the bumper is held on by 6 push-ins and the headlight assembly was 4 bolts! This is the tightest assembly of legos I have worked on!

A few commented on my heater core comment. I have never had to add coolant, and Medved Jeep is the only other person to service it so as far as I know its all genuine Mopar coolant. I have experience with Deathcool in my other GM vehicles and was thinking that my heater core may be plugged but havent confirmed that. When I get the thing all buttoned back up I plan to flush the cooling system to make sure that all the air is bled and if there is any obstructions to take care of those.

Any one familiar with the different turbos? Stamped on mine is 35242112G 757246-1 (GT2056V)
I see in searches 35242115F 763360 as working as well (VNT-2060VB)

Also any one know why the Dealer wants to replace the exhaust manifold with the turbo? Seems the turbo is different that requires a new manifold. Both Faircy Boys and an independent shop said I would need to replace the exhaust manifold along with the turbo. I'm not buying that for a second.


Thanks,
TJ

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2005 CRD Sport - Bone stock - 113K miles - RIP Original Turbo 7/13/2013

I have pictures and plan to post. The ground up turbo is pretty impressive!

I'm not sure I can clean the intercooler after seeing all the shards from the turbo. I will keep the old one and fill it with kerosene then chase it with dawn dish detergent. I'm just not 100% confident all those shards will come out. If any of you have ideas, thoughts, experience I'm all ears. I will be replacng the hoses. The Mopar replacements lasted 80K so its a toss up to go with mopar or samco. To quote another member, who wants more chrysler crap!

TJ

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2005 CRD Sport - Bone stock - 113K miles - RIP Original Turbo 7/13/2013

Just curious but When the turbo disintegrated all the engine oil wound up in the intercooler, or so it seems! Any ideas as to how or why this may have occurred?

DMR

These turbos are self sealing and oil cooled so when the turbins get to wobbling it can eat into the housing slowly but surely destroying the seal eventually making it through and dumping all the oil into the turbo. Usually when that happens Cylinder number 1 gets oil starved and siezes destroying the sleve and somethimes the piston and rings.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

Picked up a brand new turbo 35242115F (763360) here in Denver Colorado at Central Motive Power (Garrett distributor re Garrett website) off North Broadway $1,032 tax included.

TJ

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2005 CRD Sport - Bone stock - 113K miles - RIP Original Turbo 7/13/2013

The Oil feed to the Turbo is direct off of the oil pump - so if a leak develops - it'll pump most of your oil out there - and leave the rod and main bearings dry.....

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

ATXKJ and Audiboy86, thanks for the info. I did not know how that was plumbed. Fortuantely when the turbo blew I was already stopped along side the road (getting ready to merge back into traffic) so I immediately shut it down. I did start it back up to drive it onto the trailer, and then to drive it into the garage. It started up just fine like it always did so I have my fingers crossed that I have escaped any other melt downs. The real test is when we get it all back together!

Update on parts and rebuild costs:
Original Faircy Boys Jeep in Colorado Springs Quote parts and Labor $6,500
What I have into it so far:
Brand New Turbo 35242115F 763360-1 $1,032 - Central Motive Power in Denver, CO
New intercooler 05143020AA $541.20 -Freedom Dodge Duncanville, TX
CAC Hose in 55038729AA $147.60 -Freedom Dodge Duncanville, TX
CAC Hose out 55037730AD $102.42 -Freedom Dodge Duncanville, TX
Turbo Oil drain pipe fitting (rubber seal into side of block) 05142794AA $6.20 -Freedom Dodge Duncanville, TX
Shipping - $12.50 -Freedom Dodge Duncanville, TX
Total Parts - $1,842
Labor= Free
Total Savings $4,658


I want to get this up and running before I do any other mods. Hopefully no other internal parts got damaged as referenced by ATXKJ and Audiboy86. Since I have drained the cooling system, I will take it to my local jeep dealer and have the cooling system flushed to make sure that there is no air traped in the cooling system that could cause overheating.

TJ

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2005 CRD Sport - Bone stock - 113K miles - RIP Original Turbo 7/13/2013

I would go with Samcos over the stock CCA hoses any day of the week at those prices.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

The only comment I would make, that you need to do in preventative measures, is that you go ahead and replace the hose that comes off of your air box to your turbo as well. I'm sure you've inspected it already, and if you've replaced it since new then I probably wouldn't worry about it right now, but that hose is known to fall apart, especially on the bottom of it, and cause turbo problems as well.(What happened in my case)

You don't need to take it to a dealer, remember that they are typically more ignorant than you about this vehicle. All you need to do to *BURP* it is open the twist cap on the top passenger side and allow the air to come out after driving it 3-4 times. (don't do it while hot)

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings