2.8 L CRD Turbo Replacement Help

petefranc · **Joined:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:53 pm **Posts:** 7

I have a 2005 Liberty CRD.

Does anybody have step by step instructions for replacing the turbo charger? My local dealer quoted me at $5,000 to replace the turbo and intake manifold (they say it's clogged).

Any input would be appreciated!

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:31 pm

Well, to take your intake off they would have to remove the entire serpentine belt, timing belt, rear cover, fuel rail, fuel injectors, etc.

They would basically have to tear your engine down all the way to the rockers/lifters to get the intake off, and both cams are located inside the intake manifold since it's a dual overhead cam engine.

If you intake is truly clogged (possible since EGR on this engine sucks) then you have a LOT of work on your hands to get there.

You can change the turbo in your driveway in about 4 hours, just use lots of penetrating solvent and take your time with the bolts.

I would change your turbo first, then see how it runs before taking everything apart to get the intake off. If you are taking the timing belt off, you may as well do the Rockers/Lifters/Idlers/Tensioner etc. while you're in there.

Your dealer is trying to screw you, by the way, I just drove to Eastern TN and did this exact job except for the turbo for a guy for a lot less than that stupid price.

:2cents:

petefranc · **Joined:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:53 pm **Posts:** 7

Thank you for your input and detailed information! Do you have any recommendations for where to purchase a turbo charger from? I've found several online but would appreciate your advice.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 15, 2013 3:16 pm

If you will email me or PM me with your email address I can provide turbo instructions but not intake. As to sourcing best I know of right now is IDparts.

I would agree with Hexus on doing the turbo first and see how it runs before pulling the intake. As to the intake it can gunk up between the FCV (flow control valve) and where the intake elbow bolts to the intake manifold. All that can be removed and cleaned without pulling the intake. In addition you can get some feel for the condition of your rocker by the paper test - pull the CAC hose at the FCV; run the engine at idle; place a piece of paper held tightly near the intake of the FCV; if it's sucked inward your rockers are likely ok but if it flutters you have a rocker problem.

HOWEVER, backing up to the beginning exactly why do you think your turbo needs replacing? Not saying it doesn't just saying if the issue is power there are a bunch of causes of poor turbo boost that have nothing to do with turbo failure.

Do yourself a favor for future operation and get a GDE tune.

petefranc · **Joined:** Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:53 pm **Posts:** 7

papaindigo wrote:

If you will email me or PM me with your email address I can provide turbo instructions but not intake. As to sourcing best I know of right now is IDparts.

I would agree with Hexus on doing the turbo first and see how it runs before pulling the intake. As to the intake it can gunk up between the FCV (flow control valve) and where the intake elbow bolts to the intake manifold. All that can be removed and cleaned without pulling the intake. In addition you can get some feel for the condition of your rocker by the paper test - pull the CAC hose at the FCV; run the engine at idle; place a piece of paper held tightly near the intake of the FCV; if it's sucked inward your rockers are likely ok but if it flutters you have a rocker problem.

HOWEVER, backing up to the beginning exactly why do you think your turbo needs replacing? Not saying it doesn't just saying if the issue is power there are a bunch of causes of poor turbo boost that have nothing to do with turbo failure.

Do yourself a favor for future operation and get a GDE tune.

Thank you for the input and advice! I sent you a PM with my email.

hegel · **Joined:** Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:56 pm **Posts:** 13

If someone was doing their timing belt would that be a good time to pull the intake and clean it? I've owned tdi cars in the past and prior to the introduction of usld they would clog. The very first one I cleaned was worse than this

Does this happen on the crd rigs?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:17 pm

Absolutely.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:31 am

Check with Keith at GDE to see if he has any OEM turbos left. He had by far the best price.

DOC

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:50 am

Keith has already stated he has none left, we bought them all.

IDParts is the next cheapest.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Aug 17, 2013 2:32 pm

Also Oregon Fuel injection sells our turbos....currently says $1069.77 with a 3-4 day lead time.

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?pid=56

dr5chrome · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:59 pm

Curious.. is this image from a CRD? Where is this on the 2.8 engine?? Is it an easy check for any 2.8?

thanks..

hegel wrote:

If someone was doing their timing belt would that be a good time to pull the intake and clean it? I've owned tdi cars in the past and prior to the introduction of usld they would clog. The very first one I cleaned was worse than this

Does this happen on the crd rigs?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:57 pm

That pic is from a TDI.
It can happen to our CRDs though.
Which is why it is recommended that you block, remove, or disable the EGR valve.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

dr5chrome wrote:

Curious.. is this image from a CRD? Where is this on the 2.8 engine?? Is it an easy check for any 2.8?

thanks..

Below is a photo of a caked CRD elbow. It's not a particularly easy job to remove or re-install. Once you do it, you probably won't want to do it again.

dr5chrome · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:42 pm

wow...

Do all CRDs have this condition? I bought my CRD just recently @ 97K. Are there chances my intake looks like this?

I am working on a re-tune to shut off these damaging devises.
Before I get that done, can the EGR be discontented, and still be able to operate the car? What happens?
What causes this gunk - an engine problem? ..or does it happen to all CRDs?
Besides turning off the EGR, is there a way to revers this gunk?? .. other than pulling it all apart? ..i.e. additive - oil or gas..

regards, dw

Billwill · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 4:14 am

dr5chrome wrote:

wow...

Do all CRDs have this condition? I bought my CRD just recently @ 97K. Are there chances my intake looks like this?

I am working on a re-tune to shut off these damaging devises.
Before I get that done, can the EGR be discontented, and still be able to operate the car? What happens?
What causes this gunk - an engine problem? ..or does it happen to all CRDs?
Besides turning off the EGR, is there a way to revers this gunk?? .. other than pulling it all apart? ..i.e. additive - oil or gas..

regards, dw

You can disable the EGR by pulling the Airflow Sensor off of the intake filter....this will give you a permanent CEL so you will not pass inspections and will not know if you actually have developed a dangerous engine problem.
Most CRD owners get a tune from GDE which among other things disables the EGR without a CEL being posted.

My 2002 Export CRD has a very simple way to disable the EGR which I have of course done :wink:

....that is why Chrysler made it a bit harder to disable on newer models.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

dr5chrome wrote:

wow...

Do all CRDs have this condition? I bought my CRD just recently @ 97K. Are there chances my intake looks like this?

I am working on a re-tune to shut off these damaging devises.
Before I get that done, can the EGR be discontented, and still be able to operate the car? What happens?
What causes this gunk - an engine problem? ..or does it happen to all CRDs?
Besides turning off the EGR, is there a way to revers this gunk?? .. other than pulling it all apart? ..i.e. additive - oil or gas..

regards, dw

All CRDs with functioning EGR systems are susceptible to it. No way to know what your elbow looks like unless you remove it. Removing it is a pain, re-installing it is worse.

For now, you can disable the EGR system by disconnecting the MAF connector at the airbox (red tab). This will throw a CEL that cannot be turned off without a proper tune. It will not directly cause harm to your engine (and it will run just fine if not better), but you won't know other codes your ECU may be throwing, which can lead to engine damage if another component fails. For example, if you have a ceramic glow plug fail, you need to replace that right away to avoid the tip cracking and falling into your cylinder.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:15 pm

The best way to cut down on soot and soot caking of the intake along with other good things, including a significant bump in MPG is a GDE tune. There has been some recent chat about other prehaps freeware ECU tunes to turn off the EGR but how well they work I do not know and I doubt they have the other benefits of the GDE tune. An interim solution is to unplug the MAF but as noted that will turn on a CEL/MIL which can mask other reasons for that light to come on; however, I'm reasonably sure that the CEL/MIL will go out after ca. 5 drive cycles with the MAF plugged back in if you have to deal with inspections.

I, personally, would not pull the intake solely for cleaning but if you have to go in that far (ex. to replace rockers/lifters) then I'd clean it. If you do have to replace glow plugs then the intake elbow must come off to remove GP #3 in which case I'd clean the elbow. Yes the elbow is a pain to remove and an even greater pain to reinstall due to poor access to the back 2 bolts. I suspect reinstall would be substantially easier if you replaces the back two bolts with stud/nut combos.

dr5chrome · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:50 pm

..thanks again pap !

papaindigo wrote:

The best way to cut down on soot and soot caking of the intake along with other good things, including a significant bump in MPG is a GDE tune. There has been some recent chat about other prehaps freeware ECU tunes to turn off the EGR but how well they work I do not know and I doubt they have the other benefits of the GDE tune. An interim solution is to unplug the MAF but as noted that will turn on a CEL/MIL which can mask other reasons for that light to come on; however, I'm reasonably sure that the CEL/MIL will go out after ca. 5 drive cycles with the MAF plugged back in if you have to deal with inspections.

I, personally, would not pull the intake solely for cleaning but if you have to go in that far (ex. to replace rockers/lifters) then I'd clean it. If you do have to replace glow plugs then the intake elbow must come off to remove GP #3 in which case I'd clean the elbow. Yes the elbow is a pain to remove and an even greater pain to reinstall due to poor access to the back 2 bolts. I suspect reinstall would be substantially easier if you replaces the back two bolts with stud/nut combos.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:35 pm

There is nothing wrong with free tunes, some of us on this forum are currently running them with the EGR and FCV systems removed and no DTC's with GREAT success!!!! Its all about saving 500-700 dollars to use for other things, and some like to do things themselves rather than pay someone else to perform services they can do on their own!
Tunes available at:http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

As long as the EGR is functional and dumping the soot into the intake, there is going to be the gook buildup as pictured. You want to stop it, blank off the EGR feed line to the intake with a simple metal blank. Doing so will not set any codes. Other option: You can unplug the MAF sensor as PAP stated to disable the EGR valve, but this will set and hold a DTC (check engine light).

Best option: Completely remove the EGR valve and cooler, remove the FCV and replace it with the Weeks intake kit and do a OBC reflash (tune) so you do not have any DTC's with these items unplugged and gone and you will gain some additional HP, torque, and fuel mileage....
Soot is gone, Gook buildup in intake no more, and your motor will love you for it!!!!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:48 pm

Also, the ORM is now known to be much less effective than once thought. It only REDUCES EGR function. It does not turn it off and should only be considered as a VERY temporary approach.

Regarding "freeware" tunes, keep in mind that they do not have the million plus miles of collective experience we now have after seven years of using GDE tunes. I am not aware of a single longevity/reliability issue that has surfaced as a result of using a GDE tune. Do you want to save a few hundred and have it cost you thousands? It's your call.

DOC

2.8 L CRD Turbo Replacement Help

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