Low power for the first few miles

jfra · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:31 pm

I am currently having a problem with my 06 crd. For the first few miles, I am at an extremely low power state. After a few miles of driving, things return to normal and it runs like a top. During times of low power, I can hear the turbo whistle as the revs climb but it drives like the engine is flooded. It will not shift up a gear to gain speed unless I let off the throttle, wait for it to shift and then slowly add more throttle. It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold, the issue always appears at every start-up. The problem has been occurring for the last 200 miles or so. I don't have a check engine light on and haven't ever had one so it may be burned out. I haven't run a code scanner on it but will do so as soon as I can get my hands on one.

Here are the things that I have done to the Liberty:

1. Read the NOOB Guide
2. Had a mechanic replace the fuel filter
3. Changed the oil and filter (used a Mopar oil filter because I was told the M1-301 didn't fit)
4. Unplugged the MAF sensor
5. EHM
6. Cleaned the MAP sensor
7. New air filter

Here are things that are going to happen next week when I can get it back in the shop:
1. New transmission filters
2. Check exhaust system and cat converter

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:41 pm

could be tranny drainback issue. Try warming it up in neutral for a couple of minutes to make sure you have tranny fluid pressure up before you drive it. If that works, then you can try dropping the pan and change/inspect the filter.

When was the last time you changed the tranny filter?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:11 pm

First thing that pops into my head is a vacuum problem. The reservoir leaks down when you shut off and the vacuum pump is not building vacuum back up for a few minutes??? Vacuum is what runs the turbo vanes after all. Maybe you could measure vacuum at the reservoir when you start and see how it builds. Is there any black smoke when you try to accelerate hard? Just guessing here...

jfra · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:13 pm

Thanks for the feedback bugnout. I've got an appointment Monday with a local mechanic to change the trans filter. I ordered a ATP B-196 from Rock Auto. I can do basic work on my ride in my garage but the under the transmission would take me too much time without the right equipment. He also does custom exhaust work and I'm having him take a look at my exhaust system while its on the lift.

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jfra · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:19 pm

@CATCRD I checked the vacuum that has the small paper filter on it. Seems to be pumping pretty good when I pul the line off. I'll ck the service manual for a test procedure unless you can tell me one or point me to a thread about it. I'm new to the forum and have tried to search and read before posting but haven't found exactly this issue yet.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:42 am

Comments:
1. based on personal experience it's not likely tranny drain back. The usual symptom of that is at first crank up after sitting for ca 8+ hrs the tranny won't engage at all. Holding a high idle in neutral for 10-15 seconds before driving off solves that problem.
2. could easily be a vacuum boost problem caused by vacuum bleed down in the vacuum container just behind the air filter box although my notes on the boost pressure solenoid test say if the vacuum bleeds down fully (e.g. with the solenoid bypassed) it should only take ca. 10 seconds to build vacuum back up enough to operate the turbo vanes properly. I'm guessing but if you have a vacuum leak somewhere that might take longer though. If so you would not have enough vacuum to operate the turbo vanes at first start up so at first startup immediately try the turbo vane check per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment." If the rod doesn't drop either the vanes are stuck or you have insufficient vacuum. If it's the latter I suspect you can repeat the test after driving enough to get power; if the rod then moves you know you have a vacuum problem. At that point you are on your own.

You can check instrument cluster by holding the trip odometer button while turning the ignition on but not starting the engine. It will cycle through all bulbs and gauges.

jfra · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:50 am

@papaindigo - Thanks for the input. I agree with you that it probably isn't the transmission but I am going to have the filters changed anyway. I could have more that one problem going on and I don't know if the PO changed them or not. Regarding that, my filter kit did not come with a spin on filter in addition to the sump filter. Do we have a spin on filter on our CRDs?

On the vacuum boost problem. Thanks for giving me a idea to chase down. I read and search the forums and the FSM and hope to get into it this weekend.

On another note, I did bleed the fuel line at the filter as instructed by @SirSam. I didn't change any driving behavior but I did get lots of air out when I did it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:26 pm

The transmission has 2 filters - 1 flat and 1 round. The latter is referred to a "spin on" although I don't know from personal experience how it attaches. See for example http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDe ... Part=58843 . The Rock Auto # you provided seems to have only the gasket and the flat filter. FYI as I recall the anti-drain back whatever is in the round filter.

Just a reminder to be sure to use ATF+4 fluid only. Keep tabs on how much comes out (varies depending on how long a drain time is allowed and seems that more comes out if the vehicle nose is up) and be sure to put at least that much back in. Relying on the book amount is likely to result in an underfill.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:39 pm

Another possible answer: the "Mercedes logo sensor" on the side of the air box. The CRD has been known to do all manner of goofy and poor running when the wires for that break or the sensor is failing... And all without any codes (of course).

Poor operation and complete lack of power certainly seem to track with that sensor and what it was doing to me when it was bad, but it wasn't just after a startup. It would throw me into a code-free limp mode constantly while I was driving too... Then would suddenly clear for a while, then maybe do it again. Totally random, and highly annoying.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:47 pm

as a followup to geordi's comment - same things can happen if the sensor plug is loose; remove; clean; reinstall with clip engage firmly.

jfra · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:51 pm

@geordi - Sounds like your comment has some merit to it. Its a sounds like a similar problem to what I am having. I'll start with the plugs that I know have been touched or I am familiar with and see what I can come up with.

@papaindigo - Do you have a recommendation for cleaning the contacts on the sensor plugs?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:31 am

There are a host of electric contact cleaners on the market and any local auto parts store should have some. You might get a small tube of dielectric grease too; very good for preventing future problems including water in plugs

jfra · **Posted:** Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:28 pm

@papaindigo per your suggestion about the bulb check. Looks like the cel and one next to it have been disabled or are burned out. The one below the 4lo and to the right of the fog light. And the on below the fog light and left of (abs) light.

So I got a ScanGuage and it shows the following:

P0403
P0102
P1140
P0000
P0107

This gives me lots more to search the forum with. Thanks for the advice.

I'll have time tomorrow to follow up on some of the other suggestions

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:36 am

Not quite sure which lights you mean, check your owners manual (hidden on top shelf of glove box or download from Jeep). The CEL is on the outer perimeter between 4Lo mode and ABS. The "light" to the left of ABS is just a place and has no function so that's ok. If your CEL doesn't come on during a bulb check or when you turn your ignition on (should be on with those codes I think) it's either got a piece black tape over it from a PO or used car dealer or is burned out. If it's the latter a dealer will want $700+ for a new instrument cluster or you can pull the cluster and solder in a new $2 LED. Email me if you want a how to on LED bulb replacement.

Codes
P0403 - EGR - can be cleaned as opposed to replaced
P0102 - not listed on my code list or in the 06 FSM as a valid code
P1140 - turbo vacuum reservoir issue - may be a bad boost pressure solenoid as I mentioned earlier can be bypassed to check boost (if it improves replace solenoid - see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348). Alternatively can be a flow control valve issue (assembly where the CAC hose on the driver's side attaches to the engine. If valve has failed shut remove butterfly; if it's failed open can be ignored. If failed partially shut may mess with power.
P0000 - not listed on my code list or in the 06 FSM as a valid code
P0107 - MAP sensor issue - clean or replace; BOSCH # 0 281 002 845 or GM PN 55206797 is an acceptable and cheaper substitute

jfra · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:46 am

Hoping to get some Jeep time this afternoon. The ScanGuage can show the reading from the MAP sensor so I'm guessing if I have a reading it will have power and if I don't it will mean a bad sensor. I'll have to cruise around and see if it changes with the power availability. Your tip on the GM / Bosch replacement part leads me to go ahead an order a new sensor just to rule out that possibility.

The unknown light appears to be the one for the rear fog lights which would be an export only feature.

thanks TonyCRD for the image

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:29 pm

All the new found engine codes are making me toss that vacuum theory. A GDE tune will probably clear the first 3 codes in your list. PO102 is what you get with the MAF unplugged - MAF open circuit or somesuch. P1140 is a failed FCV.
I'm betting the tune and possibly a new MAP sensor and your problems may go away.

jfra · **Posted:** Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:23 pm

@catcrd Map sensor ordered earlier today. Thanks @papaindigo for the part numbers. I can't afford the GDE tune at this time but I do plan on it ASAP.

Picked up contact cleaner from AdvanceAuto today and going to clean the MAP plug until the new one arrives.

New transmission filters going on tomorrow. Looks like the PO replaced lots of parts. I'll list them tonight on this post.

Also going to replace the CEL bulb when I get this straightened out.

jfra · **Posted:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:20 pm

Looks like the PO of my CRD put quite a bit of money into it. Must have either put gas in it or failed to change the timing belt.

qty 16 5066780AB ARM-INLET AND EX
qty 4 5142544AB PISTON
qty 1 5142579AA BELT-TIMING
qty 1 5066921AA GASKET-TIMING
qty 1 5093904AA MANIFOLD-INTAKE
qty 1 5142656AB GASKET-OIL PAN
qty 1 5066786AA GASKET-VALVE COV
qty 1 5166482AA GASKET KI-HEAD
qty 2 5066958AA SEAL-NONE
qty 8 5093889AB BOLT-CONNECTING
qty 10 68031587AA BOLT
qty 4 68146570AA BEARING-CONNECTI
qty 1 68090434 GLOW PLUG KIT $171.23

The total of parts for the 1 repair visit was $3675 and labor was $561. All the parts invoices are from a Jeep dealer and the labor was from an independent diesel shop. Amazing the difference that rereading these invoices makes after spending so much time reading the forum.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:54 pm

Looks like his engine ingested a ceramic glow plug tip and it ate a piston in the process.

Wow, hope that was warranty repair.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:07 pm

all 4 pistons, connecting rods and bearings... That wasn't a glow plug that happened. It was also WAY more than just breaking the timing, seems like some major catastrophe was happening in there. I'm surprised the cylinder liners aren't listed.

That looks like a full-on piston-up rebuild.

Low power for the first few miles

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