Head is off and now the questions start.

cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

So after all is said and I have installed the factory bolts I get a message from Autoplicity that they sent the studs but didn't let me know. They will be here Wednesday and I will pull the headbolts one at a time and replace acording to the 125-135 settings. My gut on the torques of the angle method was around 100 Ft-Lbs on the center bolts and 80 on the exterior.

cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

Bolts out studs in, torqued up and noticed that the rotations were uniform. Thats a good sign. Lifters went in easy so no deformation. Valve/cam cover back on, wish there was a way to verify that the rockers lined up! I used some cut down bolts as guide pins and held the cover up with some big sockets while I verified everything was in place. Lifted the cover while my wife and kid pulled the sockets out of place and put it straight down, worked well. New injector seals, new intake seals, too much time on awkward bolts and that #%@$& EGR clamp hooked up the fuel lines and returns and called it a night. Next is the front of the engine, it will be nice to not work all stretched out for awhile. My hamstrings are dead after a night reaching into the back of the engine bay.

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:54 am

Great idea to use sockets. I have a couple of long pry bars I was going to lay across the head to get it all lined up. Sockets on the corners sounds easier and less likely to knock something out of place as I the cover is put in place.

cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

So put everything back together and it will not start.

Pumped and primed the fuel, cracked a fuelrail nut and got some fuel out so coming up on pressure

Made sure all injectors are connected in order

Verified cam sensor and #4 injector are not swapped

Checked MAF, fuel rail and Fuel pressure solenoid are plugged in.

All plugs (I remember) are plugged in.

So crap, have to get my code reader back from my friend.

I could get a no start if the rockers are off the valves but I went to great lengths to make sure the valve cover went straight down and it felt right torquing down. When I rotated the engine to check the timing it felt right not catching but a good compression build up and then rotate.

What did I miss?

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:39 am

It took a couple tries for mine to catch. Is the battery voltage above 12.0?

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:49 am

I just finished doing two valve cover removals, both started up just fine after some argument.

How long did you crank it? The fuel rail is a big place for fuel to hang out, and it won't fill up that quickly. Any air pockets in there can be bothersome until they are purged out - this can take many minutes of idling. I have seen the CRD take upwards of 15-20 seconds of cranking (in 5 second bursts) before it will stumble into idling.

Remember that pumping the primer button won't help at all (this is for future readers finding this) and the problems you are having are between the high pressure side of the pump and the fuel rail / injectors. Not much fuel gets pushed up there on each rotation, because the engine shouldn't need more than 2 gallons per hour to operate even under heavy load. At starting / idle, the fuel demand is more like only a quart per hour, so that is all the injection pump is trying to deliver - probably less than 1/2 an ounce each revolution.

If you got it back together properly, it WILL fire eventually. If any of the rockers were knocked off, that wouldn't prevent it from starting... It would just run like crap and the sound from cranking would be VERY "off" as the compression would not be behaving properly. If it felt / sounds normal while cranking and rotating... Then it is just a lack of fuel in the rail. Keep trying.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:54 am

It goes much faster if there's a lift pump on the vehicle, but yeah. Prime the crap out of it with the plunger on the fuel head, then crack the nut loose at the very front (#1 cylinder) of the fuel rail and start over.

All the air can be out at the fuel head and squirting solid fuel but diesel is an oil so you can easily have air pockets in the lines.

It may sound like it's "pinging" when it does start, because there's air in there.

I've done 4, 3 without a lift pump, and 1 with. The 1 with the lift pump was 5x easier to start than any of the others that I have done.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:40 am

Just a reminder that IIRC the #4 injector and probably the fuel rail sensor on the back have identical plugs which can easily be reversed. If you reverse the plugs the rail never builds pressure and you can crank/prime until you know what freezes over and the vehicle will never start.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:47 am

papaindigo wrote:

Just a reminder that IIRC the #4 injector and probably the fuel rail sensor on the back have identical plugs which can easily be reversed. If you reverse the plugs the rail never builds pressure and you can crank/prime until you know what freezes over and the vehicle will never start.

Yes, they are exactly the same. If you didn't label them (I always did) then they are easy to confuse because visually they are the same plug.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:09 pm

If you didn't label them, it may be helpful with these 2 tips: The wire sheath for the #4 injector might still have some white gook on it from the original factory tag that said "injector #4" on it... BUT (this is the useful one) the injector wire comes directly out of the plastic harness cover. The fuel rail sensor wire branches off the camshaft sensor wires OUTSIDE of the plastic shield.

So if the wire bundle you have connected to the camshaft is also connected to the #4 injector... OOPS.

This was a new thing I just discovered during this trip, so it might not track with other CRDs... But I'm confident that it will. They built all these things the same way, thankfully.

cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

I still have the tag on my wiring can you believe it! I did check to see if I had the #4 and cam sensor swapped but will checkout the rail pressure plug when I get home.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:36 pm

The injector plug can ONLY match or swap with the rear fuel rail pressure sensor plug. The camshaft plug is a different shape.

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cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Of course it was my own ineptness, left #3 fuel connection loose and the rail couldn't build pressure. After I had cranked it enough I noticed the fuel leak, and bwrammmm it fired right up. Everything is good after I found a boost leak on the EGR-elbow connection. Runs good and no bubbles. Need to do some heat cycles and go around and make sure everything stayed in place.

After all was done on this job I think I could work on anything on this engine, very straight forward design and I think pulling the EGR completely out would make it even easier to work on. There is a lot of scary things that are put out that prevented me from doing my own work to this point. Special tools, high pressure fuel rails, blaa blaa. I bought a Sealy kit for $80 and made my own cam holder out of angle iron. That Miller mega dollar cam holder looks like it should be on the space shuttle instead you just need something to counter the 80 lbs (108nm) of torque on the bolt.

I did learn something while trouble shooting the no start issue. Ya know those way overpriced retaining clips on the fuel return line on top of the injectors? The one that everybody says dont lose this because they are $16 a pop? The clips that are the highest cost per weight of any automotive product ever made? Turns out you dont have to take them off, just push them further in and they will click and release the nipple. Dont worry about dropping it into the belly of the beast along with my 5mm allen and favorite 15 mm socket.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 10:07 pm

Congratulations Dr. Frankenstien. Frau Blucker would be very proud :frankie:

Hope mine goes together as well as your did. I'm still waiting on my head gasket.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 12:00 am

Congratulations! Glad you got it running, and that the fix was just a simple missed nut.

When it all comes down to it, the only real problem with these Jeeps can usually be traced back to a loose nut somewhere. (Usually in an office in Italy!) :goink:

Enjoy it!

TJ2 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:22 am

Nice work!!! Did you or Geordi feel the wide range of torque values when you removed the original bolts like LMW wrote about?

I think he used a 3/4 breaker bar to get a couple of them out. Either of you run into the same issue?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:45 am

I wasn't there for this one, and neither of the two stud jobs required a 3/4" breaker bar. The removal torque on my TDI (I did the head studs yesterday) actually DID require a cheater pipe on the 1/2" Mongo breaking bar... But those studs have been in place for 280k miles now, and the engine was still quite warm while I worked on it.

The TDI studs (same kit for the CRD) went in to 125 lbs of torque with the same big wrench I installed the CRD studs with, but with none of the strange ridge-crushing of the CRD head.

synthetic-oil · **Joined:** Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:03 pm **Posts:** 146

[quote="cmpbiker"] made my own cam holder out of angle iron. quote]

Got a pic?

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

Does anyone know the colors of the wires for #4 injector plug. My markings rubbed off #3 and #4 and I need to remark them.

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:45 pm

cmpbiker wrote:

made my own cam holder out of angle iron. quote]

synthetic-oil wrote:

Got a pic?

I'm guessing it looks something like this

http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html

although Squeeto did this

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=821147#p821147

Head is off and now the questions start.

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