Hey guys new to the forum. I have a 2006 Liberty CRD. Which runs smooth other than this clanking noise under the hood. Its got about 45000km on it lady driven. I've changed the glow plugs on it. It looks like the tensioners are noisy so I'm going to do a serpantine belt change and the tensioners. Is their a serpantine pulley kit available to buy? Also what brand do you guys recommend to go with and from what site. Thanks in advance.

Kathy

Can you post a link to a recording of the sound? Also have you read Sir Sam's NOOB guide? And finally welcome aboard.

Comments:
1. at 45,000km (ca. 28,000) it's early by the book for a timing belt change but I'd seriously consider one as the belt is now 7 years old which is a long time even for a kevlar reinforced rubber belt.
2. the serpentine belt has 2 idler pulleys and 1 tensioner. The idler pulleys are generally pretty durable and should be fine at that mileage unless they are leaking grease (wet not just slightly dusty) as is the tensioner (its pulley is the same one as the idlers). If the tensioner goes bad it commonly leans into the power steering pulley; take a look at that. Then crank up the vehicle and let it idle and look down the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley. If the tensioner is noticeably bouncing around, as opposed to barely twitching, then your alternator pulley is bad in which case you need a new pulley or alternator.

As to parts and where to buy it would be helpful if you added you location to your signature. Since you posted mileage in kms I assume your not in the USA so where to buy may depend on who will ship to where ever you are.

PS clanking could be motor mounts.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Alternator decoupler? (Look for reddish dust.)

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Yep, sounds like an alternator decoupler. Timing belt should be replaced at 7 years OR 100K, whichever occurs first... At that low of mileage, you *should* be able to get away with replacing ONLY the belt.

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Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

Thanks for the responses everyone.
Learned a lot today since i joined. Im going to go ahead and order the decoupler and pulleys and new belt. Im gonna go with Mopar parts, seems like you all already went through the clickity clank. Now the decoupler i dont have red dust on it, and it seems to be fine. Should I install later? It is a little bouncy in their lol. Sorry no sound recording.
What aftermarket brands are reliable? I know we dont get much aftermarket attention on diesels.
Im gonna read more on that elephant mod seems cool but do u lose pressure?

Thanks again you guys

Indeed I've only got 51 500 km on my 2006 - have a timing belt and accessory ready to go in in next few days literally (that age thing). My climate is much more mild all the time than yours so I am probably being too cautious.
I am going to do both belts and use Goodyear Gatorbacks this time - made in USA and manufacture date on the box.....I quite like that.
Most chaps seem to use Gates (I think - from reading).

I've so far at this distance travelled been lucky with my accessory belt tensioner which is running as smoothly as you could ask it to as is my alternator decoupler BUT I am thinking of getting hold of a decoupler to hold on the shelf and drop in when necessary - it has to be coming soon and other parts.

It seems to keep these things on the road especially if you do the work yourself it is best to have the parts to hand (even with a friendly mechanic) - there are known failure items on these cars.

I see you are in Canada. I think you are probably in a considerably better situation than being as remote as Australia.
Keeping parts on the shelf (those you expect to fail) seems to keep costs and stress levels down a good deal.

Cheers & welcome

I was lucky to buy mine two years ago with 38K on the odometer. In 2 years I put on 30k miles with no issues. The problem I see with these super low mile CRD's now is they don't get run enough. Diesels are not good short mile city vehicles unless you let them run all the time. When I use mine it is 1000 mile trips over a weekend, 450 each way to my destination. My wife drives 30 miles each way to work on the interstate. Short on/off cycles are not good for these engines, they never heat up properly and tend to carbon up. These short cycles are also tougher on the timing belt.

With respect to engine maintenance parts, (pulleys, pumps, hoses, and other wear items) the safe bet is with either Mopar or OEM manufacturers (some of the european versions seem to have alternate OEMs with better build quality). Tracking down all the manufacturers can be hard, but if you leverage a trusted supplier that only stocks a few based on customer feedback. IDParts has given very favorable results for the North American CRD community. If there's one nearer you, leveraging a trusted supplier (i.e. not necessarily the dealer) is a good way to go.

On the EHM, it's a vent of the crank case, not of the vacuum system:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ ... ion_system

The oil present is in vapor state and would otherwise be directed back into the intake to be safely burned off in combustion. A little oil vapor is a normal part of the type of engine. Unfortunately it can cool and settle in the bottom of the intercooler (a heat exchanger) or be mixed with soot and gum-up the intake and other pre-combustion plumbing and sensors. That's the reason for the EHM/CCV filters/Provent/etc.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

As a generalisation, (frought with danger) it is a fair comment to be wary of vehicles that have travelled relatively short distances.
I would just ask that this scenario be considered:
Not all low distance vehicles are merely shopping trolleys although they may be called upon to do this - ending up loaded to the roof and then some which is a decent load in itself. Some are a work in progress gradually being moulded into an ideal vehicle that is just what the owner has always wanted and even at the early stages of their evolution have done more solid 4x4 work than most.

The term daily driver is perhaps confusing. It doesn't mean it is driven every day to some. Just that when called upon to do its job it, needs to be 100% reliable. No ifs - no buts.

I also think operating conditions have a strong influence. Picture a semi-rural environment where a short run is not really possible and where the vehicle is shedded in a moderate climate (unless running) and has had the most reliable aftermarket parts installed to replace the known failures continually fitted as a process of improvement - more so than any other vehicle previously owned.
The fact it is not called upon every day should not go against that vehicle....given some go so far as monitoring CAC air in and out, Turbo exhaust temp in etc

Thanks for the quick responses, the Mopar parts came in today and will install it asap. Ill update after the install and will change the decoupler.
Is their a vender here who sells provent?