Royal Purple

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:02 pm

Anyone out there running Royal Purple 15w-40 motor oil in your CRD and your thoughts on it? :?:

Like the idea of the 15w-40 weight as opposed to the 5w-40!
Here in the south where the temperature rarely drops below freezing I think it would be a good choice.

Kinda pricey oil though :cry:

But my CRD is worth it?

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

I run RP 20w50 in my evo. For the liberty I run 15w40 Rotella. I use the Rotella because its I used when I was building diesel engines for a living.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:43 pm

If I lived in the south I would be using Rotella T 15W-40 too. A well proven oil.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:32 pm

Although a very good oil for diesels, I have ran it in my Dodge Cummins, Rotella T 15W-40 is not a Synthetic oil. As I understand it, our Jeep CRD's require a Synthetic oil

Rotella T6 is not listed in anything higher weight than 5W-40

If this is not true, please post why.

From the manual:
"Only use synthetic engine oils meeting the API Categories SL/CF and Chrysler Material Standard MS-10725. Those engine oils not meeting the viscosity and API Quality and MS-10725 requirements should not be used."

Royal Purple 15w-40 is the only fully Synthetic diesel oil I have found so far in that higher weight.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I started running Rotella 15w40 in summer months (actually 4 quarts of thick stuff and 2.5 quarts of 5w40 and in the winter, I do the exact opposite).
I keep oil changes intervals to 5k miles.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:58 am

WWDiesel wrote:

As I understand it, our Jeep CRD's require a Synthetic oil

Yes, conventional oils don't have the shear performance so will break down much quicker especially in a turbo charged engine.

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

People have been running conventional oils in turbo diesel's for years wit no issues. For some reason some people seem to think our motors are a magic motor that works diffrent then any other diesel. I even read a post where some one stated that you can't run a thicker oil because the motor is a zero clearance motor when cold. :roll:

. Sorry but our little 2.8 is not a f1 engine that requires the oil and coolant to be pre heated befor starting because the motor is that tight when cold. by that persons thought prosses our motors are locked up when cold. :banghead:

I understand running a thinner oil if you live in a cold place. From my years of playing with turbo cars. I have learned that it did not mater what oil I ran. Conven or syn. All the blackstone reports were the same. Running a thicker oil in a turbo helps keep the oil from thining out as much when its hot. It also provides more suport for the oil pump gears and the thrust bearing in the turbo.

My thought is run what works for you and what helps you sleep at night.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 12:36 pm

dirtmover wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

As I understand it, our Jeep CRD's require a Synthetic oil

Yes, conventional oils don't have the shear performance so will break down much quicker especially in a turbo charged engine.

That is actually not true these days because almost all your "synthetic" oils these days are not actually synthetic but highly refined conventional oil.All your Mobil 1 synthetics are just highly refined dino oils labeled synthetic and if I remember correctly Mobil 1 is the speced oil for your CRD.

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:08 pm

I've been running a 5W-30 group IV basestock (PAO) synthetic diesel oil, summer and winter, in my CRD since we've had it, almost 7 years and 85,000 miles. It's a fact, many so called synthetics are only highly refined petroleum....you can tell by the price.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:34 pm

amslube wrote:

I've been running a 5W-30 group IV basestock (PAO) synthetic diesel oil, summer and winter, in my CRD since we've had it, almost 7 years and 85,000 miles. It's a fact, many so called synthetics are only highly refined petroleum....you can tell by the price.

Most of your amsoil junk is no different.Amsoil does not make there own oil,they buy others raw material and mix it with there additive package,hence it's higher cost.

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:00 pm

Like all other oil manufacturers. But remember, there are higher quality basestocks and additive packages available...but they cost more. I'm not going to get into another oil discussion here. You run your junk I'll run mine. Let me see you go 2 years and 21-22k miles between oil changes with oil analysis results backing this up and the results saying oil is good for continued use, resample in 7000 miles or 125 hours.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:07 pm

amslube wrote:

Like all other oil manufacturers. But remember, there are higher quality basestocks and additive packages available...but they cost more. I'm not going to get into another oil discussion here. You run your junk I'll run mine. Let me see you go 2 years and 21-22k miles between oil changes with oil analysis results backing this up and the results saying oil is good for continued use, resample in 7000 miles or 125 hours.

Sorry would never leave the same engine oil in for more then 5-6 months regardless of miles driven.I average about 1500 miles between oil changes.Clean oil equals happy/sludge free engine.I get to see the end results on a daily basis of those extreme OCI's and they are never pretty.A oil sump with 10-15 gallons that is driven at highway speeds for 10-12 hours a day is one thing compared to a engine that see's stop and go traffic,short trips,and a lot of engine re-starts in one day with a 5-6qt sump.

Here is one of the nastier extreme OCI engines(10k between changes using Castrol syntek) I've sent to the junkyard............

And no there was not any coolant in the oil,that was confirmed by Blackstone.

amslube · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:22 pm

I had a 2001 Dodge Cummins I sold with 265K miles on the clock. Used junk oil in this vehicle as well going well beyond the OCI on the Jeep and changes based on oil analysis. I did my last valve adjustment at 250K miles and there was no sludge at all...clean. Like I said, it's the quality of the ingredients and the formulation.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:40 pm

Why would you run 15W-40 in the summer if there is 5W-40 available. They are going to be the same weight at operating temperature with the 5W having the advantage at start up.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:37 pm

mass-hole wrote:

Why would you run 15W-40 in the summer if there is 5W-40 available. They are going to be the same weight at operating temperature with the 5W having the advantage at start up.

Tough one to answer and I certainly am no expert on oil viscosity. I like some others on this list base my opinions on experience from 40+ years of working on motors mostly gas burners. I have rebuilt gas engines that ran lower weight and / or poor quality oil and like the picture showed in one of the posts the insides were gunked up and everything completely worn out including the block.

I have always run 20w-50 Castor Oil in all of my gas engines and never experienced any engine or oil related problems. I also change oil every 5000 miles or less regardless of what the manufacture recommends. I have worked on many VW air cooled engines in the past that used 20w-50 and you could not find a speck of dirt or sludge in them and they ran at a much higher temperature than any water cooled engine. Back in my drag racing days, we always ran 50 weight oil to handle the high horsepower and pressure loading of the bearings.

If they made a 20w-50 full synthetic for diesels, I would use it. If you buy into the low weight propaganda; it was only done to increase fuel mileage to meet government millage requirements and certainly not to protect anyone's engines. I would much rather have the higher viscosity oil weight at start-up than a few more miles per gallon anyday! :!:

Here in the south, it may be 90 to 100 degrees at start-up and only gets worse. Think about it, up until a few years ago, no one had even heard of a 0w- whatever weight oil. :2cents:

I have found two full synthetic diesel 15w-40 weight oils available in retail stores, one is Royal Purple and the other is Lucas Oil and they are not that much different in price. I will be using one of them in my CRD starting this weekend...

thanks for all the good discussion on oil. Information helps us all make better decisions. :5SHOTS:

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 10:53 pm

mass-hole wrote:

Why would you run 15W-40 in the summer if there is 5W-40 available. They are going to be the same weight at operating temperature with the 5W having the advantage at start up.

Because it's half the price.

Plain Rotella T is in half the trucks you see going down the road, so if I lived in a warm climate, I would run it.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:04 pm

I agree and that would be a good choice if it were not for the fact that the manual states it requires a synthetic oil. Is there something in the motor that requires the synthetic oil?

From the manual:
"Only use synthetic engine oils meeting the API Categories SL/CF and Chrysler Material Standard MS-10725. Those engine oils not meeting the viscosity and API Quality and MS-10725 requirements should not be used."

Is there a reason for this :banghead:

Brianawd · **Joined:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:59 pm **Posts:** 130

tjkj2002 wrote:

amslube wrote:

That looks more like a oil drain back issue. Reminds me of the VW1.8T

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:10 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

Why would you run 15W-40 in the summer if there is 5W-40 available. They are going to be the same weight at operating temperature with the 5W having the advantage at start up.

Tough one to answer and I certainly am no expert on oil viscosity. I like some others on this list base my opinions on experience from 40+ years of working on motors mostly gas burners. I have rebuilt gas engines that ran lower weight and / or poor quality oil and like the picture showed in one of the posts the insides were gunked up and everything completely worn out including the block.

I have always run 20w-50 Castor Oil in all of my gas engines and never experienced any engine or oil related problems. I also change oil every 5000 miles or less regardless of what the manufacture recommends. I have worked on many VW air cooled engines in the past that used 20w-50 and you could not find a speck of dirt or sludge in them and they ran at a much higher temperature than any water cooled engine. Back in my drag racing days, we always ran 50 weight oil to handle the high horsepower and pressure loading of the bearings.

If they made a 20w-50 full synthetic for diesels, I would use it. If you buy into the low weight propaganda; it was only done to increase fuel mileage to meet government millage requirements and certainly not to protect anyone's engines. I would much rather have the higher viscosity oil weight at start-up than a few more miles per gallon anyday! :!:

Here in the south, it may be 90 to 100 degrees at start-up and only gets worse. Think about it, up until a few years ago, no one had even heard of a 0w- whatever weight oil. :2cents:

I have found two full synthetic diesel 15w-40 weight oils available in retail stores, one is Royal Purple and the other is Lucas Oil and they are not that much different in price. I will be using one of them in my CRD starting this weekend...

thanks for all the good discussion on oil. Information helps us all make better decisions. :5SHOTS:

Wouldn't you want a lighter weight oil at start up? No matter if its a 20W oil or a 5W oil it is still going to be MUCH thicker than what the manufacturer calls for at operating temperature. A 20W is going to be harder to pump so the oil pump is going to have to work just as hard to flow less volume at the same pressure. I would think you would want a thinner oil at start up to get as much volumetric flow as possible until it gets to operating temperature and thins to proper weight. It makes sense to me that you would want the thinnest oil possible at "cold" temperatures to maximize the flow volume.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:11 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

I agree and that would be a good choice if it were not for the fact that the manual states it requires a synthetic oil. Is there something in the motor that requires the synthetic oil?

From the manual:
"Only use synthetic engine oils meeting the API Categories SL/CF and Chrysler Material Standard MS-10725. Those engine oils not meeting the viscosity and API Quality and MS-10725 requirements should not be used."

Is there a reason for this :banghead:

Yes and since rocker arms seem to fail like clockwork around here it seems like a huge risk to save $10 an oil change.

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