Just wondering if anyone was able to replace the turbo side boost hose without draining the engine coolant reservoir. I was hoping to simply detach from the firewall and wiggle it enough to get access to the clamp that's hiding below. I do have a short 8" flexible socket extension, but it doesn't have a lot of flex to it. Hoping this will be less than an hour job...anyone?? Thanks in advance.

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David T.
**DEAD**2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White **DEAD**
116,000 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket

I've never drained it or even moved it. The boost hose clamps to the front of the turbo and whomever installed the clamp had half a brain they pointed the head of the clamp toward the passenger fender so you can come in from the side. If it points up you may need a longer extension to snake down in there and get it just loose enough to get it into that sideways orientation.

If you do have to deal with the coolant tank be advised:
1. once you undo the top 2 firewall screws you have to slide the tank forward to get it off the metal flange that slides into a slot on the tank bottom (e.g. it will not lift up until you do that)
2. depending on the routing of the coolant lines there may be one that obviously needs to be rerouted before you can lift the tank entirely out of the way. Rerouting is easy and that's what geordi and I did when installing my Stage II turbo.
3. be sure if you plan to move the tank much to undo the low coolant sensor wiring before you move the tank too much.

PS while doing the boost hose be sure to check the turbo end underside of the air filter to turbo hose for the dreaded crack caused by oil from the CCV puck.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

No, you shouldn't need to remove anything else to replace the turbo boost hose.
If you place the clamp nut toward the rear, pointing toward the fender, the next time will be easy.
As it will be a strait shot, to poke two long 1/4" extensions horizontally through the clutter.
When clamping down the new hose, make sure to position it, so it's not rubbing on the airbox.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Sorry pappindiga, I must have been typing the same time that you were.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles