UCA ball joint is spinning with nut. How to get it off?

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:51 pm

I'm trying to install my lift/A-arms for the second time and now I ran into an issue getting the driver side a-arm off. I got the nut almost all the way off when the ball joint popped free from the knuckle. Now when I spin the nut, the shaft of the joint spins too. I was able to hold the end of the shaft with a 10mm wrench and spin the nut a bit with a 21mm, but now there's not enough material at the end and I don't want to round it off. There only can be around 2-3 threads left, but I just't can't get it turned the last few spins. Outside of a nutcracker, what is the easiest way to get the nut off? Is there something I can do to avoid this on the other side? I tried to use my impact, but it is too big to get under the nut.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:05 pm

Long bar back into the springs and pry down on the ball joint area will sometimes hold it enough to come off
Are you replacing the UCAs with JBAs? if so vice grips on the threads and take the nut off. Who cares if you ruin it right?
Best way to take them off is to run the nut all the way off, then back up on about 5-6 rounds, then knock the ball joint loose . If you haven't done the other side do it that way
make sure you have a jack under the LCA when you do it though

Heck you're in Detroit, should of run down I would of helped ya ! :wink:

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 6:26 pm

Any updates?? Just wondering if you got it off or ?????

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 8:50 pm

tommudd wrote:

Any updates?? Just wondering if you got it off or ?????

I ended up using vicegrips to hold the stud and even with a long pipe, it was still pretty hard to get off. After that excitement came getting the flag bolts into the A-Arm. I don't know if it's normal but I had to use a pry bar to get the new arms in, as it seemed the space between the arm was just a hair short of the space between the pockets. That also made it hard to position the holes, but I had a tapered punch that I was able to use to catch the hole and center it. The back one went in easier than the front, despite the steering shaft being in the way.

I ended up with the driver's side finished and the passenger side done except for replacing the clevis fork, as I'm waiting for the paint to dry. The passenger side gave me the same issue with the ball joint. I think the issue was with the rust increasing the friction on the threads to more than the friction in the taper, so the stud popped out before the nut was off.

How bad does the alignment usually get after the lift? I have the OME HD springs with two conduit nuts and JBA arms. I was hoping to get it aligned tomorrow, however I still need to do the back. Next time I install a lift, I'm definitely giving you a call.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Nov 16, 2013 9:08 pm

Need to get an alignment as soon as possible
It will handle pretty funky until you get one
If you need anything just let me know

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:26 am

Thanks for all the advice. I'm heading out now to put the clevis on and torque everything up front, then its on to the back. When you say handle funky, how do you mean? Is there normally an issue with ESP? I was thinking of pulling the fuse.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:58 am

ajohns1288 wrote:

Thanks for all the advice. I'm heading out now to put the clevis on and torque everything up front, then its on to the back. When you say handle funky, how do you mean? Is there normally an issue with ESP? I was thinking of pulling the fuse.

Seems like 25-50% of people get ESP issues with the lift+bigger tires when turning left and on the accelerator.
No problems for me, but I don't have bigger tires.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:59 pm

Gageraid wrote:

ajohns1288 wrote:

Thanks for all the advice. I'm heading out now to put the clevis on and torque everything up front, then its on to the back. When you say handle funky, how do you mean? Is there normally an issue with ESP? I was thinking of pulling the fuse.

Seems like 25-50% of people get ESP issues with the lift+bigger tires when turning left and on the accelerator.
No problems for me, but I don't have bigger tires.

I get this. Very rarely though and I won't get it if I let the Jeep coast.

And what Tom means by "handle funky" is that it'll drive like utter garbage. In my experience it liked to "skate" and be very unsafe. I wouldn't want to go much over 20-30mph tops.

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:52 pm

Bmxer524 wrote:

Gageraid wrote:

ajohns1288 wrote:

Thanks for all the advice. I'm heading out now to put the clevis on and torque everything up front, then its on to the back. When you say handle funky, how do you mean? Is there normally an issue with ESP? I was thinking of pulling the fuse.

Seems like 25-50% of people get ESP issues with the lift+bigger tires when turning left and on the accelerator.
No problems for me, but I don't have bigger tires.

I get this. Very rarely though and I won't get it if I let the Jeep coast.

And what Tom means by "handle funky" is that it'll drive like utter garbage. In my experience it liked to "skate" and be very unsafe. I wouldn't want to go much over 20-30mph tops.

I just finished and drove it a mile to get aligned. I could tell the camber was funky, it wanted to go all over and the wheel was off center. I took a picture of my front end and the extreme camber. I'll post it once I get home.

EDIT: Got back from the alignment, took a while, but the mechanic said he had to adjust a lot. Drives really well now, no squeeks or rattles that I heard, but it was raining. Here is a before pic, check out dat camber. Next up is some 245/75/16 Silent Armors.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 18, 2013 2:07 am

That's about what mine looked like. With the extras in my lift too my CVs wanted to die. After the alignment it helps "settle" the front a little and puts the CVs back to close to where they should be.

What to do measure from center of hub to bottom of the flare?

Looks good, I can't wait to see more pics!

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 18, 2013 1:55 pm

Bmxer524 wrote:

That's about what mine looked like. With the extras in my lift too my CVs wanted to die. After the alignment it helps "settle" the front a little and puts the CVs back to close to where they should be.

What to do measure from center of hub to bottom of the flare?

Looks good, I can't wait to see more pics!

I measured about 20" from hub to flare on my driver's front before I ran into work. I measured from ground to flare before but I don't have he numbers handy. I think I went from 31ish to 34.

UCA ball joint is spinning with nut. How to get it off?

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