Names are left off to protect the guilty. Just had Dodge dealer give me a quote for 100k mile service while dropping off wife's car. ( try not laugh)

Skipping the small stuff

$47 for oil change ( 6 qts of 15w40)
$320 for 'replace fuel/water separator unit' ( every 25k miles)
$745 for timing belt change ( includes belt and idler pulley)

_________________
#1 2006 Silver CRD Limited, flipped spare tire, ASFIR skids, GDE TCM & Ecotune, blue SAMCOs, 5V glow plugs, Rotella T6, intank fuel pump, Gen2 fuel head, new crank sensor, JBA 2.5 in silver package, Provent and ARB bumper
#2 2006 Metallic Green Limited; currently DOA
#3 2005 Silver project; currently not running...don't judge me

We need names, so we know who is doing wrong and who is ripping folks off...
This should be a dealer on the "avoid list" (do we have one of those??)

_________________
Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

The prices for the oil change, and the timing belt service are not "out of line" at all.
But I would run pretty fast, if they were going to put 15w40 in my CRD.

_________________
TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

$320 is pretty much in line for a clueless dealer who thinks the entire fuel filter head needs replacing instead of the $30 or so filter. This has come up before.

Oil change $s are actually low and I bet they want to use the wrong weight dino instead of the right weight synthetic not to mention a full fill on the stock filter is 6.4qts so 6qts won't do

$725 for a dealer TB job is on the low side.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

For what you have listed is below average prices for those services.

Those prices are all about half of what the service should be (except for the fuel filter) and show the usual clueless dealer mindset. 15w40 oil change? That is CERTAINLY a Dino oil, and the wrong one for the CRD anyway. Good thing they fix that by not using enough too.

Timing belt... No tensioner? Only changing ONE idler when there are two? No water pump? The price the dealers charge for JUST the belt is usually in the $300 range, so that isn't even covering 30% of the labor bill. Expect to get the rest AFTER the CRD is trapped and in pieces. "Oh, uhm, we didn't know this was THIS diesel (or a diesel at all) so the service is a bit more expensive... Sorry, but you need to pay more."

Bad dealers doing a bait-and-switch? Say it ain't so! :rolleyes:

Meanwhile, that fuel filter is about the only thing that I can accept - as papaindigo said! the price is inline with a clueless dealer pushing the whole fuel head instead of the filter alone.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I totally agree with what your saying but, let's assume the dealer or that quote is simply missing the s from idlers in which case they are simply following bad instructions from a bad manufacturer.

Replace the engine timing belt and idler pulleys.
Inspect the engine timing belt tensioner, replace
if necessary.†

† The replacement of such component is requested if
there is superficial wear, bearing clearance, or evident
grease leak.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

15w40 is fine. I run it years around. been doing it for over 40k now.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD DD/ski slut
Lifted,hottune,Full exhaust
05 Mitsubish evolution SSL
450awhp/400awtq autocross slut

I was thinking about doing that just in the summer to help save the rockers. Do you live somewhere that it gets below freezing?

_________________
05 liberty Sport Black CRD,GDE trans tune, Stant 13519 thermostat , Samco Hoses, Weathertech mats, segr, K &N filter ,2nd gen fuel head, 2.5 inches lift, JBA A-arms, Roof rack,
99 Camaro Silver LS1 heads, loud mouth, fast as hell and just as fun!!!
It was stock when I got it but now It's mine!!
You only love it if you change it!!

Why is everyone always so quick to knock 15W-40 oil in a CRD. In the hot south it is a wise choice!
Got it in mine right now and has been for the last two oil changes with 0 problems.

Three companies make 15W-40 in full synthetic just for diesels.
Amsoil
Royal Purple
Lucas Oil Products

can't be all that bad!!!!

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Dealer timing belt job, followed by, oh, we just found out all of your rockers need replacement. Good thing we found this?

_________________
20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

quote]

15w40 is fine. I run it years around. been doing it for over 40k now.[/quote]

I was thinking about doing that just in the summer to help save the rockers. Do you live somewhere that it gets below freezing?[/quote]


I live in Portland OR. Stays in the 40-50s most all winter. But I also ski every weekend. Even with temps in the low 20s on Mt hood jeep starts with no issue after stitting for 8-10s or over night.

_________________
05 Liberty CRD DD/ski slut
Lifted,hottune,Full exhaust
05 Mitsubish evolution SSL
450awhp/400awtq autocross slut

I was just amazed they would quote a cheaper oil that was not mentioned in the manual.

Also, they did quote 2 pulleys but no tensioner or water pump.

_________________
#1 2006 Silver CRD Limited, flipped spare tire, ASFIR skids, GDE TCM & Ecotune, blue SAMCOs, 5V glow plugs, Rotella T6, intank fuel pump, Gen2 fuel head, new crank sensor, JBA 2.5 in silver package, Provent and ARB bumper
#2 2006 Metallic Green Limited; currently DOA
#3 2005 Silver project; currently not running...don't judge me

Mmmm... Now aren't you glad that you have a specialist coming who has touched probably about 15 more than this dealer has ever seen?

FYI: I've done more than 15, and I challenge ANY dealer to prove the same. I'm not worried.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

My understanding is that shear stability is the biggest concern on this engine hence the recommendation to use a synthtic which is more shear resistant. Wide range multi grades have a very high polymer content and can also suffer more from shearing than a narrow range multigrade.

The take away for me is use a synthetic and get that bottom number as high as you can for your particular climate. If 15W40 works in your part of the world then go for it.

_________________
Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

For those who are using 15w40.
Are you using synthetic or conventional?
What are your oil change intervals?

_________________
U.S. Army Retired