When colder weather arrived - mostly with the onset of the first snow, my serpentine belt got REALLY loud. By loud, I mean noise you can hear over the radio while going 70 mph. At first it was just a very quiet little mousy squeak that was obviously just one tiny spot on the belt. But then it grew to eventually be a continuous squall.

I sprayed some water on the belt and it went instantly silent, but then slowly begins a little "squeak...squeak...squeak" which in a few minutes reverts to a very loud high pitched squalling noise.

Anyone have any fixes besides a new belt? I tried belt conditioner and it made it louder.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

You can try and see if the silicone based dashboard shine protectant would work, that usually is good with rubber and softens it up. I put that thing on my belt almost at every oil change and I have no squeals. It's also a good idea to check your tensioner and the pulleys to make sure they spin properly. If a bearing is bad, you can replace it for cheap with camo's idea, I believe a Timken 203ss is the bearing you need. Just look for his thread, is relatively recent.

P. S. Found it:

viewtopic.php?t=76128

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I know it isn't a bearing.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

Not to be difficult but how do you know it's not a bearing. For a belt to squeal it has to be slipping on something. For it to slip:
1. belt is too long for tensioner to apply proper tension - wrong belt or over stretched belt
2. frozen or partially frozen pulley - application of water would allow belt to slide across pulley until water evaporates
3. bad tensioner or bad alternator decoupler pulley (look for red dust under cap and a bouncing tensioner at idle). The latter is a not uncommon failure point; you can replace pulley or spring for $150 at like AutoZone for a lifetime warranty replacement pulley.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I had the same problem back in the fall with the AC running. Tried all the usual remedies, belt spray, silicone spray, cheap soap, etc...
Replaced belt with a new Gates one and noise was gone and has not returned....
I did end up replacing the tensioner pulley with a new one from ID parts, but that was later on and a different noise completely...
change the belt....

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
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98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Pwrwagn, if I were you, I'd take the serpentine belt out, inspect the belt, inspect all the pulleys, if anything is bad, replace them. I know that with a long wrench you can reach the tensioner bolt and you don't have to take out the viscous fan. It's not very easy to work with the viscous on, but faster than taking it out, especially if you don't have the fan shroud mod. One more reason to go with an e-fan, lol, working on the engine is so easy. If you do choose to take the belt out, you can also do the shroud mod, if you didn't already. It is your call definitely, but this is what I would do if I were you . Papaindigo is correct, you may have a bad pulley and you won't know, with the setup of crd engine, till you take the belt apart, there is no place (side of alternator) where you can use a mechanical stethoscope.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The belt is not slipping.

There are no bad bearings.

The belt itself squeaks as it travels around. This is nothing new, I've seen lots of belts that squeak - but none of them have ever been mine before. This one started out with one tiny spot that squeaked and it slowly added more until it's basically a continuous squall.

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05 CRD Sport in blue. Suncoast TC and ARP studs.

I have the Sealey timing kit I'll loan out.

To make noise the belt has to slip,you may not be able to see it slip though.Bad bearings in idler pulleys like to squeak also.Use tire chalk on the back of the belt,apply when the engine is running,if the noise changes it's a worn blet,if not you got a bad bearing somewhere.


If the belt is a EPDM belt you have to measure the ribs as EPDM belts do not crack like poly belts.If the ribs are pointy the belt is worn out,the ribs should have a fairly wide and defined flat end.If the ribs are glazed you need to replace the belt.


Never use any type of belt dressing on a serp belt,it will ruin the belt.Make sure you clean the pulleys very well before putting a new belt on and always replace the tensioner at the same time,it's internal spring wears out also.