2.5 daystar lift!

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 2:11 am

ok I have a 2003 liberty renegade, I live in the flat lands of florida, just sand and mud. no rock crawling. I had a daystar 2.5 lift and all new suspension because they was tierd. sitting on 255/70/16 tires with 16x8 pro comps. been on for a month, no problems and drives like it did stock....so with that said, I see a lot of bashing on this lift, I im ready to hear not rumor, but hands on about this lift with new all new suspension added..weather good or bad, or what I may need or not need in future.. :JEEPIN:

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:03 am

First if you bought the Daystar and all new suspension ( springs and shocks ) you now have as much almost as a full spring lift.
Next due to the design of the lift it causes more wear and tear on ball joints and also more wear on the shocks and springs. You can install teraflex bumpstops, which help a small amount.
But 97 % of folks who install a Daystar or any "spacer lift" remove it and upgrade to a full spring lift in a few months

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:02 am

I got 800 total in lift, front coils and struts and rear coils. but not rear shocks! heard I may need new longer rear shocks from rancho ,don't know the part # thought??? but havnt figured out why I need them??? the arms is at the same angle with a full spring or with daystar, so plz tell me about this ball join issue, so I can fix or work around it for future..or how to resolve future problems.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:12 am

800 would of bought you 4 new springs and 4 new shocks
You've got 800 and still need rear shocks :roll:

Reason for the need for longer rear shocks is simple, the stock ones are not long enough now and will top out. Rancho did make a good rear shock but discontinued that line that everyone used
Buy at least Bilstein shocks
There is no "work around" to make parts last with a spacer style lift. Just the nature of them they cause more wear on all parts. The way it compresses the spring it causes extra pressure unlike a spring made heavier for more lift .

LKWJeeper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:58 am

I know everyone and their brother says not to use a spacer lift. I haven't seen anyone say that their springs wore out prematurely. The OP of the how to thread has his on for 6+ years with no issues.

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tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:39 am

LKWJeeper wrote:

I know everyone and their brother says not to use a spacer lift. I haven't seen anyone say that their springs wore out prematurely. The OP of the how to thread has his on for 6+ years with no issues.

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I have seen them ( springs ) worn out and then with ball joints ready to fall apart
6 years and no issues is laughable I call BS and would like to check all parts
I've torn enough of them out to install a real lift over the years and never seen one over a year old without issues

little side story
The ARB I got from a family of Jeep owners out below Chicago. They bought their son a KJ back in 03, and used a spacer lift to lift it. Also installed a ARB on front etc. First it blew a left front shock after 4 months, then 2 months later the left side front shock, then two Upper Control arms with in 3 months time of one another, then another front shock in a month, all in all in one year 3 shocks blown, and two upper control arms, final came when the right side UCA wore out again and caused their son to wreck the KJ . Fender/grill,flare, wheel etc . They gave up and took off the lift bumper etc and had it all returned to stock. When I picked it up they warned me that there was no way to lift a KJ safely. I lifted mine at 20,000 miles, now at over 196,000 it is still going strong and no issues. My original UCAs lasted over 70,000 miles lifted and were installed on another KJ that had a spacer lift that we installed a spring lift on.

So don't tell me that spacer lifts do not wear parts :wink:

LKWJeeper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:07 pm

Well wouldn't the ARB have something to do with it? The added weight on top of the already increased pressure on the coil is a bad idea.

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tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:01 pm

Small amount maybe but the end result is the spacer style lifts are proven time and time again with out aftermarket bumpers even to cause excessive wear on the front end parts. I wouldn't recommend them 15 years ago and still won't today for those very reasons.
Just can't see throwing good money down a rat hole. If you don't care what the ride is like, don't care how it handles, aren't going to keep it for over 6 months to a year, then maybe but I still wouldn't do it to any ride I ever own

streetglideok · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 3:30 pm

palmettostomper wrote:

I got 800 total in lift, front coils and struts and rear coils. but not rear shocks! heard I may need new longer rear shocks from rancho ,don't know the part # thought??? but havnt figured out why I need them??? the arms is at the same angle with a full spring or with daystar, so plz tell me about this ball join issue, so I can fix or work around it for future..or how to resolve future problems.

Ouch, I'm sorry. $703 would have gotten you Ironman springs and shocks, plus shipping. Add the teraflex bumpstops that you should have already for the daystar, and a couple cheap hockey pucks for the back. If you were out my way, I'd let you ride in mine, and then ride in yours. Then you'd see why it's just not worth the cost of the spacer lifts.

airwerks · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:33 pm

My experience puts it somewhere in between the 2 camps. I have a RRO 3" spacer lift (came with the Jeep).

It was on for 30k miles before I got it, and on the stock shocks all around. After I put 10k miles on it, i had to replace the OEM front shocks (finally blown) and one upper ball joint / control arm. These were OEM pieces that I pulled off, and condition wise they looked to be original parts. Now, 10k miles later I still have had no more IMMINENT DOOM issues.

Would I have done a spacer lift if I bought the lift? No. I like to have more wheel travel and would prefer a little stiffer spring.

Would I pull off the spacer lift that is on it now? No. It rides fine. People always tell me that they are surprised how well it rides for a lifted Jeep. Spring rate wasn't changed. Shocks weren't changed. Ball joint angle changes and wears faster.

These are the experiences I have had, though I'm sure a spacer lift somewhere has killed a hooker in a truck stop or impregnated someone's teenage daughter....

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 4:42 pm

If you have never ridden in a full spring lift then there is no way to tell how it rides is there? Mine rides WAY better than it ever did stock, it doesn't "bounce and slam down on rail roads tracks and pot holes. Those that " stand up " for spacer lifts are amazed when they finally ride in one done the right way :wink:

IF spacer lifts were the only way to lift a KJ, mine would of never been lifted, rode bad enough when brand new off the lot so why would I want to of made it worse?

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:21 pm

streetglideok wrote:

palmettostomper wrote:

I got 800 total in lift, front coils and struts and rear coils. but not rear shocks! heard I may need new longer rear shocks from rancho ,don't know the part # thought??? but havnt figured out why I need them??? the arms is at the same angle with a full spring or with daystar, so plz tell me about this ball join issue, so I can fix or work around it for future..or how to resolve future problems.

Ouch, I'm sorry. $703 would have gotten you Ironman springs and shocks, plus shipping. Add the teraflex bumpstops that you should have already for the daystar, and a couple cheap hockey pucks for the back. If you were out my way, I'd let you ride in mine, and then ride in yours. Then you'd see why it's just not worth the cost of the spacer lifts.

The 800.00 included the lift and all new suspension..minus rear shocks..

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:27 pm

Ok so i didnt go the best. Does anybody know the part # on the longer rear shocks ?and would jba upper control arms and joints solve some of my issues ?

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:30 pm

palmettostomper wrote:

Ok so i didnt go the best. Does anybody know the part # on the longer rear shocks ?and would jba upper control arms and joints solve some of my issues ?

Also What about the lowers ?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:00 pm

JBA upper control arms won't help, but they will allow you to change out the ball joints when they wear out .
Longer rear shocks , OME, Ironman both make longer rear shocks for the KJ.
OR you can source Bilstein shocks for the rear of a 99-04 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive pickup and add washers to the top and bottom to make them fit

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:01 pm

palmettostomper wrote:

Ok so i didnt go the best. Does anybody know the part # on the longer rear shocks ?and would jba upper control arms and joints solve some of my issues ?

Also What about the lowers ?

Lower control arms? Nothing you can do with them, use stock, they work

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:02 pm

palmettostomper wrote:

streetglideok wrote:

palmettostomper wrote:

I got 800 total in lift, front coils and struts and rear coils. but not rear shocks! heard I may need new longer rear shocks from rancho ,don't know the part # thought??? but havnt figured out why I need them??? the arms is at the same angle with a full spring or with daystar, so plz tell me about this ball join issue, so I can fix or work around it for future..or how to resolve future problems.

Ouch, I'm sorry. $703 would have gotten you Ironman springs and shocks, plus shipping. Add the teraflex bumpstops that you should have already for the daystar, and a couple cheap hockey pucks for the back. If you were out my way, I'd let you ride in mine, and then ride in yours. Then you'd see why it's just not worth the cost of the spacer lifts.

The 800.00 included the lift and all new suspension..minus rear shocks..

This is what I have been telling people for years, its cheaper in the long run to do Ironman or OME springs and shocks that what it is to try and use a spacer style lift

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:00 pm

Ok.. just a question so i under stand..yall have a full spring in yours, I have new complete spring assembly with in front with daystars spacers at bottom . Which rides better then it did stock on and offroad.. from top to bottom We are spaced out the same, so how does mine ball joints and parts up front wear quicker ? If I put a full spring in mine or leave What I got , that do nt change the angles, of joints, cvs, a arms ect. Rite ?

streetglideok · **Posted:** Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:37 pm

palmettostomper wrote:

streetglideok wrote:

palmettostomper wrote:

I got 800 total in lift, front coils and struts and rear coils. but not rear shocks! heard I may need new longer rear shocks from rancho ,don't know the part # thought??? but havnt figured out why I need them??? the arms is at the same angle with a full spring or with daystar, so plz tell me about this ball join issue, so I can fix or work around it for future..or how to resolve future problems.

Ouch, I'm sorry. $703 would have gotten you Ironman springs and shocks, plus shipping. Add the teraflex bumpstops that you should have already for the daystar, and a couple cheap hockey pucks for the back. If you were out my way, I'd let you ride in mine, and then ride in yours. Then you'd see why it's just not worth the cost of the spacer lifts.

The 800.00 included the lift and all new suspension..minus rear shocks..

$100 more than a regular spring lift. $703 is new springs and shocks, front and back. You spent $800 for new springs, shocks in front, and daystar spacers.

Here is the thing you don't get. With a regular spring lift that got me as much lift but for $100 less than you, I can utilize the full shock travel in front, and back. With yours, your stock worn out shocks are too short so greatly reduced travel there, and causing bottoming and topping out of the suspension well before it should in the rear. This causes ride harshness. In front, you have the daystar spacer crammed in there to increase the preload of the new springs to gain lift. Doing so now just greatly decreased shock travel, since these are captured spring setups. Your shock can technically travel the full length, but will incur spring coils crashing into themselves 2-3" before the shock bottoms out. If you aren't running the teraflex bumpstops up front, that means your new springs will wear out that much faster. Again, increased ride harshness. Ever see those 15-20mph dips with the scrape marks in the road? Can you take them 35mph or faster and not bottom out? I can because I have full shock travel front and rear to allow them to slow things down. $100 more, still don't have new rear shocks, your suspension is no better than the lowered Honda civics trolling the streets.

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:15 am

To streetgeek ..your rite about the travel and such. But if you look at the first of this discussion, I sayed I was in florida flat lands..I need ground clearance for sand in orange groves , not rock crawling out West.. and yes teraflex bump stops are need on my kj. You say I spent 100.00 more then a REAL lift like yours" not knock ironman " but your dead wrong.. mine was 800.00 installed aligned, out the door. Yours was 704.00 +tax+ shipping + installation +alinment + more tax on that..and you got 1.5 lift..can you clear 265/75/16 with that dont think so....but I can with no trimming, and still have plenty of room..so i didnt páy more , you payed more sounds like 500.00 or more...we both need teraflex so We are even there..not say that my lift is better than yours.. but your not good to make me look a Beavis, that I over payed, and could have a lift like yours for a 100.00 less then I payed. And as far as the civic remark ,that was pathetic and childish.......

2.5 daystar lift!

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