While I'm doing the timing belt... Cold Start issue

1stepp · **Posted:** Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:42 pm

Ever since I got this 2006 CRD 2 years ago :SOMBRERO:

, if the night temps drop below 40, it is a pain to start. Last night was only 35°F and it took 3 long tries to get it going. If I plug in the block heater there is no issue but I'd expect better performance for such relatively high temps. Since I'm going to be in there doing the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, etc. should I look into changing out the probably original glow plugs? Any other ideas?
:ALONE:

cerich · **Posted:** Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:01 pm

You have a issue for sure. Even if the original glow plugs were working you should change them out. They have a habit of breaking and falling in the cylinder, doing a great degree of damage in the process.

The absolute best option is the Etneco glow plugs you can get at id parts, I suggest you get a new controller relay at the same time, they have been known to go bad.

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:24 pm

Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the GPs through the connector on the right side of the manifold.
The readings are in ohms. The shop manual says that the GPs need to have resistance less than 10 ohm. While mine do the consistency is not comforting. Looks like I better go ahead and order some GPS from IDparts

381 0.4
299 273

Misread the shop manual. GPs are to be less than 10 ohms at worse not 1000. Just ordered a full set from IDP.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:16 pm

1stepp wrote:

Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the GPs through the connector on the right side of the manifold.
The readings are in ohms. The shop manual says that the GPs need to have resistance less than 1Kohm. While mine do the consistency is not comforting. Looks like I better go ahead and order some GPS from IDparts

381 0.4
299 273

All four of your glow plugs should have a resistance of around 0.4 - 0.7 ohms when they are new and perfect.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:57 pm

Keep us posted re: your Etecno's. I put a set of them in about a month ago. I followed Keith's recommendation about not changing them out until necessary. . . so I put them in when I got a fault code for #4 glow plug failure.

I'm also going to follow his advice about cycling the key 'on' for a second or two. . . and repeating two or three times before trying to crank when it does get cold.

Squeeto has a nice how to about changing them out.

1stepp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:26 am

Started tonight on the glow plugs. Tear down is complete but those connectors are a real pain! I don't have any long pliers so I'm off the store 1st thing for a pair. Going to do the CAC (Samco blue) and fuel filter/water separator while I'm there. Intake elbow is very oily but not restricted too much. A quick clean will do. I did find that taking off the bottom skid plate aids in retrieving dropped items

Hoping to be buttoned up by noon.

1stepp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:12 pm

1-4 left to right.
Looks like 1,2,4 have been broken for a while. #3 looks to be the only good one.
They all go!

After letting them cool, here are the resistance numbers 1-4: 324, 354, 0.6, 455.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:47 pm

This might settle some debate about ceramic glow plug breakage. So question - was your Check Engine Light On? I ask because there has been some suggestion that the ceramics are ok (e.g. not broken) so long as the CEL is not lit and it's only after getting a glow plug CEL that you need to worry about breakage.

Looks like you dodged a bullet as none of them lost the complete ceramic tip. #1 is the worst, #2 is barely broken more like chipped, and #4 looks like it lost only slightly more than the beveled tip. Given that I'd bet the pieces went on thru the exhaust causing no damage.

1stepp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 1:00 pm

Never did get a CEL. Makes me think I better check codes anyway. Who knows if the former owner got tired of it and unplugged it.

1stepp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:43 pm

All buttoned up with a new gaskets and CAC hose as well, all from IDParts. Road tested well so now to find the time to do the other side of the turbo and the timing belt. :-)r

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:59 pm

So here are the codes in the system after driving only about 10 miles:
P1261 GP#1
P1263 GP#2
P1265 GP#3
P1267 GP#4
P0102
P1140
The first four are likely the bad glow plugs. Are the last 2 the ORM?

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:37 pm

Are they all stored or active?

1140 is the ORM, not sure about the 0102. I don't see that, only P0101 which is about 3 different MAF sensor deviations, so probably is.

1stepp · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2014 11:28 pm

Not sure if they were active or stored. Some how they all got cleared :roll:

using o'reilly's reader. I'll drive for another half tank or so and get a new read while I work on restoring the CEL.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:34 pm

P0102 is the ORM. P1140 is a bad/unplugged FCV.

1stepp · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 5:23 pm

LED is missing. :evil:

Looks like it was just "flicked" off the PCB. Now to find a replacement.

While I'm doing the timing belt... Cold Start issue

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