Purchasing Lift products one-by-one

nFodzy · **Joined:** Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:30 pm **Posts:** 389

Couldn't find a thread on this so I've decided to post my own. I've finally come down to what I want, but unfortunately cannot afford everything at once. Although it probably isn't the greatest way to start a lift, it has to be done.. I don't do much wheeling, just the occassional weekend, but I do a lot of fishing. When buying a lift kit separately, which items should I be buying first? (one at a time) This is the only way I'll be able to afford it lol. I just wasn't sure where to start incase there is a specific order to follow when purchasing a lift kit one-by-one.. I'd like to get a minimum of 2.5", so probably a maximum of 3-3.25". I will be buying everything from JBA too if that helps. Any help with the order of purchasing and guidance will be greatly appreciated.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:57 pm

Thats the way I did my first OME / Rancho back 2005. Bought front springs first/ then rear/ then shocks etc Nothing at all wrong with doing it that way and no real order that you need to follow
IF you are heading to 3-3.25 inches I would seriously think of the UCAs as well and the extended rear sway bar links. While you can get by without either , its another upgrade that will pay for themselves in ride/ and over all ride comfort etc

Others have done it as well ordering over a few months time frame. They sent parts to my house and I stock piled them until they got it all so we could install :wink:

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:13 pm

Pretty much like Tom said. No particular order. Wait til it's all in before installing. If you want 2.5" of lift, OME 927/731 would be fine. You could always add a clevis lift and/or top plate up front and extra rear isos for up to 3.5" Once you hit around 3" of lift, a-arms become pretty much a necessity. Either way they would be an upgrade though and help with alignment.

nFodzy · **Joined:** Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:30 pm **Posts:** 389

Thanks guys I appreciate it. I did have rear sway bar links on my list already so I'll have to add the UCA's too but will probably be purchased last. Just starting a new job so I have to wait for the funds to really start coming in. The thing I noticed is that I can't find Ironman rear springs, do they not make them? If not, I will go with the OME front/rear springs.

nFodzy · **Joined:** Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:30 pm **Posts:** 389

Bmxer524 wrote:

Pretty much like Tom said. No particular order. Wait til it's all in before installing. If you want 2.5" of lift, OME 927/731 would be fine. You could always add a clevis lift and/or top plate up front and extra rear isos for up to 3.5" Once you hit around 3" of lift, a-arms become pretty much a necessity. Either way they would be an upgrade though and help with alignment.

Yeah I'll be ordering a set of the strut spacer plates but what size clevis spacer would i want for 2.5"-3.25"? Would it be 3/4"?

carlosburitica · **Joined:** Sat Jan 05, 2013 1:07 pm **Posts:** 309

nothing wrong to do it one by one. that way you buy good and buy smart
one thing to take in consideration is what your plans are, most of the times you buy 2" of lift and then you want 4"

i like the ome for the front but found that the lift is crated buy adding a really stiff springs, top plates an clevis... the ride will improve 300%, on and off road, but for serious off road, don't think is the best front end, you wont have any articulation on the front, is funny that i could clear some concrete pipes with the stock suspension and with the ome i can't, since the springs are so stiff that the front needs to carry all the weight on the front end and the back push... i am working on a hybrid front with jk coils.

for the rear instead getting the ome and adding issos get the 4" jba springs. way better imo thatn the ome and you don't need to stack issos.

i have a rear set of ome hd with 8k miles on that i can sell you at a good price to start. let me know

i am working the same way with my new gears and lockers. been getting stuff for a year now and will do it once but right. regear and lockers at the same time.

huntb · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:19 am

Why not just save your money in a piggy bank and wait till you can buy it all at once? Save on shipping that way

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 12:49 pm

nFodzy wrote:

Bmxer524 wrote:

Pretty much like Tom said. No particular order. Wait til it's all in before installing. If you want 2.5" of lift, OME 927/731 would be fine. You could always add a clevis lift and/or top plate up front and extra rear isos for up to 3.5" Once you hit around 3" of lift, a-arms become pretty much a necessity. Either way they would be an upgrade though and help with alignment.

Yeah I'll be ordering a set of the strut spacer plates but what size clevis spacer would i want for 2.5"-3.25"? Would it be 3/4"?

Never go that big on a clevis. Stick to around 3/8" tops. 2.5" won't need much especially if you add the top plate. The 927s and top plate will get you about 3", want 3.25 add a 1/8" clevis.

Our front end is simple math, everything you do up front doubles for lift. So start with springs, automatically give 2.5"(927s obviously), so there is your starting point. Add in 1/4" top plate, you add 1/2" to 2.5= 3".

nFodzy · **Joined:** Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:30 pm **Posts:** 389

Bmxer524 wrote:

nFodzy wrote:

Bmxer524 wrote:

Pretty much like Tom said. No particular order. Wait til it's all in before installing. If you want 2.5" of lift, OME 927/731 would be fine. You could always add a clevis lift and/or top plate up front and extra rear isos for up to 3.5" Once you hit around 3" of lift, a-arms become pretty much a necessity. Either way they would be an upgrade though and help with alignment.

Yeah I'll be ordering a set of the strut spacer plates but what size clevis spacer would i want for 2.5"-3.25"? Would it be 3/4"?

Never go that big on a clevis. Stick to around 3/8" tops. 2.5" won't need much especially if you add the top plate. The 927s and top plate will get you about 3", want 3.25 add a 1/8" clevis.

Our front end is simple math, everything you do up front doubles for lift. So start with springs, automatically give 2.5"(927s obviously), so there is your starting point. Add in 1/4" top plate, you add 1/2" to 2.5= 3".

Okay that makes sense thanks. So basically I don't need a clevis since the springs and top plate will get me to where I want to be at 3". Would I have to wait until the lift is installed to see if I have the lean in the front, and then add a clevis to level it out if needed?

EDIT: @carlos , I totally understand where you're coming from and I appreciate your suggestions.. but like I said, I rarely go wheeling, just the occasional time with a friend and the roads to the fishing spots I go to aren't that bad. Mostly just loose gravel and a few swampy areas, nothing major like where you guys go in the States.
@hunt , Ever since I was a kid, I didn't do well with piggy banks. I find whenever I have the money at the time, it's best for me to buy it then and there! Whereas if I have all the money at once, I'll either forget or spend it half way through on something else. Lol Shipping isn't too bad, only $15 roughly on each item.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:54 pm

nFodzy wrote:

Bmxer524 wrote:

Never go that big on a clevis. Stick to around 3/8" tops. 2.5" won't need much especially if you add the top plate. The 927s and top plate will get you about 3", want 3.25 add a 1/8" clevis.

Our front end is simple math, everything you do up front doubles for lift. So start with springs, automatically give 2.5"(927s obviously), so there is your starting point. Add in 1/4" top plate, you add 1/2" to 2.5= 3".

Okay that makes sense thanks. So basically I don't need a clevis since the springs and top plate will get me to where I want to be at 3". Would I have to wait until the lift is installed to see if I have the lean in the front, and then add a clevis to level it out if needed?

That's what I would do. A clevis lift is easier to add down the road anyways. You're looking for a level stance right? If you want the front at 3" you might need to add an extra rear spring isolator. My 3.5" needed 2 extras per side in the rear to level it out. If I remember correctly each adds 1/2"(Tom correct me if I'm wrong with anything lol), so you should just need 1 extra per side.

MGRead · **Joined:** Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:17 pm **Posts:** 12

What is a UCA? New the the forum.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Scar0 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:43 am

MGRead wrote:

What is a UCA? New the the forum.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Upper control arm. <click here

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:21 am

Bmxer524 wrote:

nFodzy wrote:

Bmxer524 wrote:

Never go that big on a clevis. Stick to around 3/8" tops. 2.5" won't need much especially if you add the top plate. The 927s and top plate will get you about 3", want 3.25 add a 1/8" clevis.

Our front end is simple math, everything you do up front doubles for lift. So start with springs, automatically give 2.5"(927s obviously), so there is your starting point. Add in 1/4" top plate, you add 1/2" to 2.5= 3".

Okay that makes sense thanks. So basically I don't need a clevis since the springs and top plate will get me to where I want to be at 3". Would I have to wait until the lift is installed to see if I have the lean in the front, and then add a clevis to level it out if needed?

That's what I would do. A clevis lift is easier to add down the road anyways. You're looking for a level stance right? If you want the front at 3" you might need to add an extra rear spring isolator. My 3.5" needed 2 extras per side in the rear to level it out. If I remember correctly each adds 1/2"(Tom correct me if I'm wrong with anything lol), so you should just need 1 extra per side.

Correct

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:41 am

I'm in the same boat as you nFodzy except mine is to "hide" the purchase from the pregnant wife... she'd notice the full cost of a lift missing from the account but won't notice a $100 here and there for the next couple months. Hide them in the garage and install it while she sleeps... she won't notice the difference I swear :twisted:

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 9:55 am

toy4everyseason wrote:

I'm in the same boat as you nFodzy except mine is to "hide" the purchase from the pregnant wife... she'd notice the full cost of a lift missing from the account but won't notice a $100 here and there for the next couple months. Hide them in the garage and install it while she sleeps... she won't notice the difference I swear :twisted:

Women notice way more than they let on a lot of times :ROTFL:

Example; my wife never cares what I do to mine and never says much about it. But an example, she was in Boston teaching so I would go over to see her every other weekend. One weekend I lifted mine about 1/2 inch ( just had to ya know) next weekend I get there and we go out for dinner. She climbs in, then says" OK what did you do now?" I asked what she meant, she then stated " I know its sitting higher because I had to lift my leg up more than normal"
She noticed a half inch extra in height...............................incredible :shock:

carlosburitica · **Joined:** Sat Jan 05, 2013 1:07 pm **Posts:** 309

toy4everyseason wrote:

I'm in the same boat as you nFodzy except mine is to "hide" the purchase from the pregnant wife... she'd notice the full cost of a lift missing from the account but won't notice a $100 here and there for the next couple months. Hide them in the garage and install it while she sleeps... she won't notice the difference I swear :twisted:

YOU SPEND $100 AND buy here some custom jewelry for no reason, she will be happy with the gift, if she decides to check the bank she ma realice that it was the jewelry. buy using paypal bank transfer so she wont know where is it coming from. statement will show paypal transfer.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:34 pm

You guys need to break your women in lol. My girlfriend(future wife...) already gave me full control of our future vehicles. She already admit she has no say when it comes down to buying the cars/trucks/Jeeps and what happens to them lol. As for now she just says "you better not complain to me about money any time soon" and makes me promise that the KK will still look good.

PHOKEZ · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 3:47 am **Posts:** 10

nFodzy wrote:

Couldn't find a thread on this so I've decided to post my own. I've finally come down to what I want, but unfortunately cannot afford everything at once. Although it probably isn't the greatest way to start a lift, it has to be done.. I don't do much wheeling, just the occassional weekend, but I do a lot of fishing. When buying a lift kit separately, which items should I be buying first? (one at a time) This is the only way I'll be able to afford it lol. I just wasn't sure where to start incase there is a specific order to follow when purchasing a lift kit one-by-one.. I'd like to get a minimum of 2.5", so probably a maximum of 3-3.25". I will be buying everything from JBA too if that helps. Any help with the order of purchasing and guidance will be greatly appreciated.

im doing the same as soon as some cash frees up, and same as you im no good with piggy banks lol

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2014 4:41 am

Does anyone know the part number for the Bilstein front strut that can be used with the OME front springs? I found part # 24-139168 but I believe it is the stock length or am I wrong? Thanks the help.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:07 am

toy4everyseason wrote:

Does anyone know the part number for the Bilstein front strut that can be used with the OME front springs? I found part # 24-139168 but I believe it is the stock length or am I wrong? Thanks the help.

A front shock is a front shock is.... :roll:

well all are the same stock height or lifted
Ironman front shocks are a little longer but basically all are the same
Just look up what a stock KJ or KK would take and thats it

Purchasing Lift products one-by-one

Who is online