Front Passenger CV question

LibertyMax · **Joined:** Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:33 pm **Posts:** 14

I pretty much know the answer to my question, but I need figuring out the solution.

My front ball joint crapped out on me last thursday morning as I was slowly backing out of my driveway (I say slowly because I heard a metal deep creaking noise like a submarine in a movie :lol:

, so I was trying to figure out the sound) then, BAM, front passenger suspension slams to the tire. Toasted lower ball joint (already went through the recall). Rachet strapped the LCA up to keep the ball joint off the inner tire, called a tow, hitched a ride to work. The shop worked on it all day, told me the CV was damaged. FINE! Replace it. I need it back on the road. So they slapped it all back together in 30 min (at the END of the day) did an alignment & sent me on my way. Handled great UNTIL... accelerating up hills (I'm in missouri) & turning to the RIGHT ONLY (relieving the weight OFF of the front passenger corner, drooping the suspension ever so slightly) BR BR BR BR BR BR BR (real fast, like not fully locked in or stripping gears). Take it back in next day. They can't find anything. Weekend, I babied it around trying to narrow down the cause. Still doing it.
They tell me, you'll love this, it sounds like the "Viscus Clutch" in the differential :lol:

. Blah Blah Blah.

I inspect it today (yesterday the shop put a whole nother CV in there cause they heard the noise too) & here's what I see:

My question: Doesn't the CV need to be mated to that surface on the Intermediate shaft?

Now, I also have a Daystar 2.5" leveling kit. The mechanic, of course, was trying to blame it for the extreme CV angle making the binding skipping noise (which I agree, the CV IS binding/making the noise). I've had that leveling kit on since last summer with absolutely ZERO cv binding noises. Though, I'm sure the kit played it's part in the destruction of my ball joint (my suspension was SHOT/WORN COMPLETELY OUT before the leveling kit, then flexing it the other way after).

That CV needs to go further on that Intermediate shaft, Is my daystar kit prohibiting that? I can't see why. Help!

cliff

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:19 am

The mechanic hasn't seen extreme CV angles if he's going by yours :wink:

tell him people are running 4 plus inches :lol:

But yours looks like its close but It could be just in enough to look ok but not all the way popped onto the intermediate shaft. Mine runs close enough I can just barely get the tips of my fingers in there. I wonder if the Intermediate Shaft is OK? The ends of the spline may be worn and that also could be causing part of the issue.

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:47 am

may need your help to tom. looked at his pics too.. I thought it looked back out a little to much to. 2 weeks ago I had my front cvs and hubs replaced too. before they was replaced I looked at that cv and I don't remember mine having that gap. it was more like you described I think.. so I just went out and looked at mine and it is the same way his is ??? they checked intermediate shaft,bearing and seal, all was good.. grabbed it and moved it up and down, seems a little lose... tonite.. so are all the passenger cvs all the same length ? or is the after market cvs housing shorter, so I see the inter part more , so it looks shorter ? this is got me tripping, thinking they put a shorter shaft in there, or not installed rite.. ???

LibertyMax · **Joined:** Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:33 pm **Posts:** 14

Thanks for the reply.
I had to tell the mechanic that it is the cv binding, not my suspension "re-settling" (they had to loosen my strut and sway bar to get enough wiggle to attach the clevis back to the LCA). I definitely don't think the cv angle is too extreme due to my small lift. My Lib is

Tom, could it cause cv binding/popping noises if they don't have it on the Intermediate shaft enough & and there is too much "CV-ness" :lol:

going on between the hub & intermediate, Right?

When he put the 2nd cv assembly in, he did say that the splines on the intermediate shaft looked like new still and that the popping noise at least isn't chewing up the shaft. Unfortunately, he returned my cv the very next day for the core return so I can't verify it's length, nor can I compare it to the replacement.

I usually prefer to do this work myself, but the unplanned ball joint breakage is what set this all in motion.

How is the Intermediate Shaft held into the carrier, by c-clip in the differential?
I'm gonna open up the diff this weekend (hasn't ever been serviced w/125k though I have changed the gear lube)/clean & check it out.

Anyone know of a good write-up for the passenger side CV/Intermediate Shaft replacement? I've only been able to find youtube videos of the drive shaft cv.

Thanks for the insite

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:44 pm

I figured out why our cvs look to short and not flush.. we both have after market cvs. depending on brand they are a little shorter then a factory ones. we looked and measured the old and the new ,about a 1/4 inch shorter then factory.. I wasn't happy about this , seems to be universal for other apps maybe. but they are shorter and have a little more play in them.. next time ill be getting factory ones. price about the same.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:29 pm

If either or both of you are using CVs from *utozone and the likes then yes they are known to be too short and therein could be the issue. New from Mopar or rebuilts from NAPA are the correct length.

Intermediate shaft is held with a clip on both ends . Also you mentioned opening up the front diff, only way to do that is to drop it down out ( not that hard to do but takes a few minutes :wink:

)

LibertyMax · **Joined:** Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:33 pm **Posts:** 14

Palmetto, is your kj lifted? Have you experienced a binding "klunk" with the replaced CV?

Mine is a New Replacement. Not sure of brand (i'm certain it is not Mopar). I had the guys at Big O Tires here in town do the install.
It does have a sloppy amount of play in that cv where is sits on the intermediate shaft. Sliding on the shaft ( :oops:

) is very minimal play but up/down/left/right seems really loose.

So Tom, I've read alot of guys recommending replacing both the Intermediate shaft with the CV. Does that mean a full tear down of the diff in order to get to the clip on the inside end? I could've sworn I read others say it just pulls out with the CV.

What holds the CV onto the Intermediate Shaft? Does it just slide on & stays on once the other end is bolted to the hub? No clip or anything? If anyone has a pic of a link to a good tear down on this, that would be great.

I think I'm gonna have to order another CV (from NAPA) and take it to Big O, have them install the correct one for free & credit me for the first crap CV's that they installed. (Yeah, I know, "Good luck with that")

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:46 pm

I can't pull up the photos but both ends of the intermediate shaft have a clip/ring on it, one ends pops into the diff end the other the CV slides over and clicks in. No tear down of the diff is required , just pull the old CV out and install a new one.
Sometimes the intermediate shaft will stay hooked to the CV but you just put it in a vice etc and pop it out.
Most of the "aftermarket " stores use Asian type CVs for some reason they can't get the size right where as like NAPA they rebuild the actual CVs from KJs so are the correct length.
ALSO make sure you get for the 3.7 gasser.

LibertyMax · **Joined:** Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:33 pm **Posts:** 14

Thanks for the info. Wasn't sure what held the CV locked on. The driver side (original equip) is very precise/locked in while the passenger side feels very sloppy/loose.

I filed my issue with Big O corporate customer service. I told them all I wanted for the situation to be rectified, is for me to purchase the CV directly through Mopar or NAPA & bring it back to Big O, have them replace it with the one they put on & reimburse me for the price. She seemed very receptive. I'll report back.

jhblackwell · **Posted:** Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:02 am

Had mine replaced by a local mechanic after the stealership screwed it up twice. I don't know what he used but it has a similar gap and works great, much better than what the stealership put in. I haven't wheeled it yet, but it's great on the road.

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:29 pm

i have the same lift as you. no binding sound or clinking. i do think maybe a bit of grind sound at 15-20 mph, or my mind is playing tricks on me, and its the tread on the new tires.

palmettostomper · **Posted:** Fri Apr 04, 2014 1:44 pm

tommudd wrote:

I can't pull up the photos but both ends of the intermediate shaft have a clip/ring on it, one ends pops into the diff end the other the CV slides over and clicks in. No tear down of the diff is required , just pull the old CV out and install a new one.
Sometimes the intermediate shaft will stay hooked to the CV but you just put it in a vice etc and pop it out.
Most of the "aftermarket " stores use Asian type CVs for some reason they can't get the size right where as like NAPA they rebuild the actual CVs from KJs so are the correct length.
ALSO make sure you get for the 3.7 gasser.

Will this shorter size cause problems ? If so What ?

Front Passenger CV question

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