Can somebody explain in detail how to do open CCV?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 8:12 am

I haven't had any EGR problems or intake issues associated with oil in my system. But some guys on here have converted their CRDs to open CCV as a temporary fix until Old Navy's filter becomes available. Seems that I was reading something about putting a hose on that would allow oil to drip and vent the crankcase to the atmosphere..and then plugging another hose, etc. But I can't remember which thread I read that in.

Can somebody explain exactly how you bypass this system to prevent any possible oil from going through the intake? Does this throw any CELs?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 8:48 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

I haven't had any EGR problems or intake issues associated with oil in my system. But some guys on here have converted their CRDs to open CCV as a temporary fix until Old Navy's filter becomes available. Seems that I was reading something about putting a hose on that would allow oil to drip and vent the crankcase to the atmosphere..and then plugging another hose, etc. But I can't remember which thread I read that in.

Can somebody explain exactly how you bypass this system to prevent any possible oil from going through the intake? Does this throw any CELs?

Hey dude a guy as sharp/smart as you should have looked and figured it out. :roll:

But what the heck all of us BF once in a while. :wink:

Just pull the hose off the black CCV that sit's on top of the valve cover (remove the engine cover first) and use a 3/4 inch plug, I used a PVC pipe plug, and then put a hose clamp around it to make it secure. The put a 3/4 inch ID hose over the nipple where you pulled off the hose and run it down the driver side of vehicle where it will drip clear of the vehicle. You might want to put some oil dry down where you park or as I do in the garage a large oil drip pan I bought at AdvanceAuto Parts.

Now if I could just figure out how to get the oilfilter off without getting oil all over tranny skid plate where it drips for a week. :oops:

AZScout · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 3:55 pm

Is this known to improve MPG?

Thanks

oldnavy · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 4:10 pm

AZScout wrote:

Is this known to improve MPG?

Thanks

No.

Ripster · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 7:42 pm

Ok you are lucky I did not have anything to do at the moment

Here is the hose going from the puck to anyplace you decide to put it

Here is the other hose I removed and plugged that was going into the puck.

And here is where I put it for now till Old navy is ready with his project.

Hope this helps, I have to see a photo myself often understand the concept.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 8:14 pm

Picture is worth a thousand words they say, but those sometimes confuse me even worse. :oops:

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 8:17 pm

The hose routing is optional. Mine goes to the passenger side. It goes right alongside the coolant tank. I ran it high through there to encourage drainback and decrease dripping. I haven't seen a drip yet. Clouds, yes. Drips, no. The hose on mine ends up down by the oil filter. I figured oil residue wouldn't be conspicuous in that area since the oil filter has a slow drip anyway! With this routing it is important to cable tie it off in a few places so it can't get into the exhaust. No CEL , less smoke from the exhaust, and clean intercooler hoses. Probably the best cheap mod you can do. Followed closely by an add on drain plug on the trans. pan.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 10:32 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

The hose routing is optional. Mine goes to the passenger side. It goes right alongside the coolant tank. I ran it high through there to encourage drainback and decrease dripping. I haven't seen a drip yet. Clouds, yes. Drips, no. The hose on mine ends up down by the oil filter. I figured oil residue wouldn't be conspicuous in that area since the oil filter has a slow drip anyway! With this routing it is important to cable tie it off in a few places so it can't get into the exhaust. No CEL , less smoke from the exhaust, and clean intercooler hoses. Probably the best cheap mod you can do. Followed closely by an add on drain plug on the trans. pan.

Don't think you will see much oil from this vent. I have my Provent drain going into a recovery bottle. Dumped the drain bottle for the first time when I changed oil yesterday (6500 miles on Provent). Maybe 2 or 3 oz of oil sludge in the bottle. Keep in mind the Provent is essentially powered by the suction of the turbo, not the pressure of the crankcase. Allowed to vent naturally you will loose less oil. Gaining a strong belief the vast majority of the oil in the CAC is coming from the turbo seals. You should all continue to check your CAC hoses after open venting.

Ripster · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 10:52 pm

And this is not an option during winter as the end will freeze up and pressure
can build up and cause a problem. I know this and this is temporary.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 11:44 pm

Ripster wrote:

And this is not an option during winter as the end will freeze up and pressure
can build up and cause a problem. I know this and this is temporary.

This should not be a problem in the winter. Every bus engine I've worked on is this way, never had a freeze-up. It is important to not run uphill where water can be trapped and frozen. Also, on a bus they typically have a pipe (not hose) for the down drop and the very end is cut at an angle.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 12:19 am

The people running this mod on VW's had the hoses freeze from the water vapor build up as it froze . It doesn't happen over night but takes a little time.
This probably won't be a problem in GA, VA or KY, but in NY, ND, WI or Canada and other such very cold places it will happen.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 5:35 am

oldnavy wrote:

The people running this mod on VW's had the hoses freeze from the water vapor build up as it froze . It doesn't happen over night but takes a little time.
This probably won't be a problem in GA, VA or KY, but in NY, ND, WI or Canada and other such very cold places it will happen.

Not trying to be argumenative, just find this odd. Every commercial diesel on the road is set-up with an open vent this way, never heard of this problem before. Is it freezing because they stuck it in the wind in front of the engine? Breathers on most commercial diesels are routed directly over the side of the valve cover and straight down the side of the block.

Ripster · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 6:48 am

It could be the locations where it exits, but I did have mine start to plug, and it was inside the engine compartment.
I plugged mine in out side, I caught it and just changed it over to a different system. Maybe these won't I may see
how it does this winter with an exit near a warm source.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 7:29 am

Ripster wrote:

It could be the locations where it exits, but I did have mine start to plug, and it was inside the engine compartment.
I plugged mine in out side, I caught it and just changed it over to a different system. Maybe these won't I may see
how it does this winter with an exit near a warm source.

Strange things happen in extreme cold. Maybe why they use metal pipe and keep it close to the block, stays warm enough to drain clean.

Hey, the last time drove through the U.P. in the winter it was -25. Didn't set the parking brakes or shut the coach off for 3 days. If I went faster than 35, needed to use an ice scraper on the inside to clear the windshield. When I got to the toll bridge had to get a passenger to run out and pay the toll because the windows were frozen. :shock:

Ripster · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 8:29 am

Yes life is interesting at times here, you definitely better use anti gel and pay attention to fuel, or you
will get cold real fast.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 9:44 am

I know you are not being argumenative, but you can't compare everything to buses. These trucks as a rule get started in the winter and driven 5 to 10 miles to work and shut down. The mosisture that has not all been boiled off from sitting all night then freezes and the process is repeated in the afternoon, your buses spend hours on the road and burn the moisture off. The metal tube also is a heat conductor, where the rubber/plastic tube is not, so any moisture in the tube freezes after shut down and then is only partly thawed when driven home in an afternoon where it never got above freezing. Then after a few days or how ever long required it freezes solid, and in VW diesel caused a couple cars to blow seals.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:09 am

oldnavy wrote:

I know you are not being argumenative, but you can't compare everything to buses. These trucks as a rule get started in the winter and driven 5 to 10 miles to work and shut down. The mosisture that has not all been boiled off from sitting all night then freezes and the process is repeated in the afternoon, your buses spend hours on the road and burn the moisture off. The metal tube also is a heat conductor, where the rubber/plastic tube is not, so any moisture in the tube freezes after shut down and then is only partly thawed when driven home in an afternoon where it never got above freezing. Then after a few days or how ever long required it freezes solid, and in VW diesel caused a couple cars to blow seals.

True. Probably idle a coach for warm-up longer than the typical TDI or CRD is driven. I have seen ice on occation hanging from the tube or on the ground, just never posed a mechanical issue.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:31 am

It never caused a problem here in southern MO for me, but someone in North Dakota is a whole different kettle of fish. I have driven a car out on the Mac Straights to I fish in northern MI, I just could not see what all the fuss was about ice fishing being so great. The Open Kadet had steel studded tires all around and it was a blast to drive on the lakes.

Ask me if I would do that now days since I have learned life is too short. Hell yes!!

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, favorite drink in hand, body thoroughly used up, and screaming, "WOO HOO, what a ride!"

chrismc · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 11:04 am

FWIW, the Dodge CTD (I had an '02) has an open crankcase vent tube that goes down the front of the engine via a rubber tube and ends in a "drip bottle. The bottle would regularly fill up then drip on the axle. Many people would just removed the bottle and let it drip on the ground, as it was a PITA and the bottle would get all crusted up with a nasty oil/dirt blend. To my knowledge, they have no problems with freezing shut.

However, the vent was at the front of the block and if you were offroading and hit a very steep downhill section, the engine would dump a LOT of oil out the tube right into the radiator fan. As expected, that makes quite a mess of the engine bay. After one offroading trip, I had to replace about 6 quarts of oil (out of 10+1 for the filter if I recall correctly). Gotta love descending a steep switchback on the side of a mountain and seeing the Check Engine light come on...

With the more centrally located vent on the CRD, I don't expect it would have the same problem at full tilt. Dodge had a TSB for the Cummins that included a special valve cover with a central vent that could be installed if the vehicle was operated in "extreme circumstances". The TSB cost DC something like 2-grand, so I was never able to convince them that I regularly operated the Ram in "extreme circumstances", despite having an oil-coated engine bay. :roll:

**Edit** Found the TSB, for those interested in a similar issue on a different engine.

Can somebody explain in detail how to do open CCV?

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