Alright so I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a new lift. Time to ditch the old Daystar and move up in the world. When I put the Daystar lift on I had always intended to upgrade to OME and Al's A-arms down the road. I am looking to get between the 2.5" and 3" of lift and I am looking for a little direction/confirmation to my thoughts before I put my order through. I don't do a lot of off roading. The KK is my daily driver. And the two reasons for the lift is for better ride quality and fitting 245/75 r16 tires. The third reason being that a lifted KK looks BA

I started researching this lift/suspension upgrade with the OME kit. My understanding is that the OME kit will give me about 2.5". Then I thought I could add the strut spacer plate set from JBA to get another 1/2" up front. In the rear, an extra spring iso to level it out. Correct?

As I did my research I came across the Tommudd's Econo lift from JBA which gives 3.5" of lift which is a little more aggressive than I had in mind. I figured I could skip the clevis lift that is included in the kit to bring the total lift back down around 3". Only problem is the rear springs in the kit are for 4" of lift, giving me 1"+ more height in the rear. Which may or may not be a problem? Again, please correct me if I'm wrong.

From there I thought I could piece together the Tommudd Econo lift and switch out the 4" rear spring for a 2.5" rear spring and add one extra iso. Theoretically ending with 2.75" inches of lift up front and 3" in back with my "modified Econo" lift. Yes?

In the end it comes down to this. The Tommudd Econo lift sits at 3.5" which is more lift than I want or need. So that is out. That leaves me with OME with the spacer plate (around $1365 with JBA A-arms and teraflex bumpstops) or a modified Econo lift w/o the clevis lift and substituting 2.5" rear springs (around $1300 with JBA A-arms and teraflex bumpstops). Both of which I believe would get me around 3". Is there any reason to go one route over the other?


Anywhos, thanks for the advice.

6 of one half dozen of another

IF you only want to stay around 3 inches then OME 927s in front with top plate will get you to the 3 inch range, in the rear add one extra upper iso and you should be about level front to rear
add in the UCAs/ bumpstops etc and be done

and doesn't matter if you never goo offroad, ride on road will be VASTLY improved. Everyone should have a full lift sitting waiting when you buy one

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Reading back over this I guess I sorta worked it all out as I asked my questions in my original post. OME would net me about 3" with a level stance. Using the ironman set up would net me a little under three up front with a slight forward rake.

When you say "IF" I only want to stay at 3 inches are you saying that OME would limit me to 3 inches in the future while ironman set up would allow me to move up to 3.5 inches? My fear is going with 3.5" would cause other issues that I've read of on this site. ie sway bar links, realigning rear axel, ect.

I sit at 3.5" with no problems other than some slight uca contact and that's more annoying than a problem.

OME and Ironman can be set up to be at 3.5". OME sits slightly higher than Ironman, so if you want 3" on the dot using just springs and top plates then go OME because Ironman will sit slightly below it.

OME 927/731 with top plate and 1 extra rear iso per side will get 3" and be level. If you ever want to go up to 3.5"(which you will...) you can add a 3/8" clevis(easy to do) and throw an additional iso on each side and still sit level.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

My thoughts exactly. If I went 3.5" now I'd have no room to go up in the future lol.

Bmxer524 what made you go with blisteins over full OME set up? And use the heavy duty OME springs even without "extra weight"? I know the answer is yes but what does that do for me exactly? Just help with extra height? And I know, I should know this already.....

I went with the old econo lift to save some money plus I know Bilstein makes great shocks. I was able to have the whole kit at my door for 1200 or so, BUT prices have changed since then.

As for the HD springs, they give more lift and won't sag as fast. A few KJ guys on the island ran the same setup so I went with was tried and true.

I'll be honest at first ride was stiff. My dad didn't like them, he said they were too stiff. After a 1000 miles or so(I do atleast 70miles a day because of my commute so it was a quick break in) they broke in nicely. The old man took a ride with me and even said they ride a lot better now. Now his biggest complaint are the duratracs. He doesn't like the ride and hum of them. I don't notice it too much, but I also don't care since it's what I want. And you know how 21 year olds are lol

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

To be quite honest you're not going much more then 3.5 anyways ( maybe 4 but other things need swapped out then) so wouldn't worry about wanting to go higher later.
We've done close to 30 lifts here and all used the HD springs, ride is good on/off road, not harsh or hard at all.

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited