Head Gasket R&R questions

greiswig · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:45 am

All,

I confirmed that I have coolant in one of the cylinders, so I do indeed have a leaky head gasket. The radiator probably developed its leak as a result of the pressure. At idle, that was apparently enough to relieve the pressure from the cooling system entirely.

Anyway, I need to start collecting parts and wisdom for this job. I'm hoping you might be able to help me out

PARTS:

Head Gasket-
1. Is there a place to buy just a head gasket? I'd rather not pay for bolts that I won't use. I saw the catalog image of the Elring gasket (E.g. part #690.396 for the 1-hole version) in the "ARP Studs" thread, but I can't seem to find a source in the U.S.
2. Can you tell before taking the head off whether you have a 1 or 2 hole head gasket? I saw a picture of a removed one, but it wasn't clear whether the holes in question were visible outside the block or not. (EDIT: yes, with a mirror you can tell even before taking off the valve cover.)
3. Is there a gasket KIT somewhere, that includes the head gasket, valve cover gasket, exhaust gasket, etc. (EDIT: At least IDParts has this)

Studs-
4. 204-4706 is the part # listed for one kit, but in the applications section of Summit, they do not list the VM Motori engine. Only VW and Audi. But this is the right kit, yes?

Other parts-
5. Injector copper seal and O-ring
6. Timing belt?? (replaced at 100k with the water pump, but at 140k now...it will likely have to come off anyway?)
7. What else?? Lower radiator hose (Do those ever fail?)

My radiator blew, too, and I'm trying to locate part numbers for a replacement which I will post back in another thread.

PROCESS:

8. Is there an online resource that outlines the factory-recommended process for removal?
9. Is there a good way to get the wiring harness off the top of the valve cover? I can loosen it from the attachments, but it's still attached at three ends and it looks like it will get in the way.
(EDIT: I found the Rocker R&R post by thermorex in the Tech section that seems to be answering 8 & 9)
10. Any other parts of the removal process that I should be aware of? I'm sadly really familiar with actually pulling a diesel head off and installing new head gaskets, just not on this engine. E.g. do I really have to buy tools to secure the various components for timing?

Thank you!!

greiswig · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:04 pm

Oh, one other thing: is there a way to tell what thickness gasket you have before you pull the head by looking for the "no holes/1 hole/2 holes" thing? Or is that concealed by the head?

And does it matter? I assume that if you have the "no holes" version now, pull the head and have it decked to any degree, you might want to get the next thickness up to avoid overcompression?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:33 pm

The spacing of the head to the engine is the same no matter what - it is based on the protrusion of the liners above the block deck, not the underside of the head.

That said - there is virtually NOTHING that can be done to the head, it is far too thin to have anything milled from it. If it is more than (IIRC) about .004 out of flat, then it needs to be replaced. Luckily, heads only warp when abused. If you haven't had a severe overheating incident, your head is probably just fine.

Learning which gasket you have could be done with a borescope before taking the top valve cover off... But why bother? You know it has to come off anyway, and the truck isn't drivable right now anyway. Looking under the intake between cylinder #2 and #3, there is a tab protruding from the gasket. The holes will be toward the back, if there are any. It will be easier to read without the valve cover in place, and there will still be plenty of work to do to remove the head completely.

As for purchasing the gasket without the bolts, no joy. But you will have 18 brand new paperweights or the world's least aerodynamic darts to play with after the job is done.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:28 am

Thanks, Geordi. I went ahead and tried the mirror approach, and I have a 1-hole gasket unless the other hole is sealed. Looks like they purposely put the holes on a portion of the gasket that isn't trapped between block and head, so you can read it. Someone with a 0-hole gasket might not be as confident in looking there, because...how do you spot where something is supposed to be when it's missing?

Anyway, hope this helps someone.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:54 am

Could you read the stamping on the gasket tab? There should be numbers too, the sizes of 1.32mm (no hole) 1.42mm (one hole) or 1.52mm (two hole) stamped into that long tab. You want to be 100% certain on this.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:57 am

geordi wrote:

Could you read the stamping on the gasket tab? There should be numbers too, the sizes of 1.32mm (no hole) 1.42mm (one hole) or 1.52mm (two hole) stamped into that long tab. You want to be 100% certain on this.

I did not try, because I thought the hole was the only thickness indicator. Is the stamping facing up or down?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 4:59 pm

I believe it is facing up. That is why I suggested using a borescope, you can get in closer and hopefully see more.

greiswig · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 6:17 pm

geordi wrote:

I believe it is facing up. That is why I suggested using a borescope, you can get in closer and hopefully see more.

Gracias. I wish I had a borescope. But I'll try to have a look anyway and report back here on where to find it.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2014 6:30 pm

Home Depot had a sale on them recently, I think there was one by Ryobi that was very affordable and used their 4V cylindrical rechargeable batteries.

Head Gasket R&R questions

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