MAP Sensor Pics after 37K miles with GDE Eco Tune/EHM

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:31 pm

OH, the boxes of busted shafts, puked compressor and turbine wheels and 'welded' bearings I've accumulated over the years of my tractor pulling days!.... all due to this very same phenom. :roll:

Gmctd has a good point too on the dyno versus 'real life' type operation. our locked up tcc keeps engine rpm fairly constant, which keeps the air moving through.

Now, If we have a stick shift car, and roll up full throttle, then release the throttle and clutch at the same time to shift..
^^^^^ *see opening sentence of this post* ^^^^^^

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:36 pm

rancherman wrote:

OH, the boxes of busted shafts, puked compressor and turbine wheels and 'welded' bearings I've accumulated over the years of my tractor pulling days!.... all due to this very same phenom. :roll:

Lol.... this is a soot thread...

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:40 pm

ArmyChief wrote:

rancherman wrote:

OH, the boxes of busted shafts, puked compressor and turbine wheels and 'welded' bearings I've accumulated over the years of my tractor pulling days!.... all due to this very same phenom. :roll:

Lol.... this is a soot thread...

sorry! I got 'excited' :pepper:

carry on!

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:42 pm

Thanks - but, yeah, EGR is used for more than preventing turbo 'bark' - express function is to reduce cylinder temperatures below the levels which produce oxides of noxious (NOx) at any engine rpm and loading, which apparently also occurs even at idle - I was given to think pilot injection would prevent this, amongst all it's other good benefits to the Diesel community

I would think this becomes a raging problem in 15L 18-wheeler engines which can be idled 6-12-18hrs at a time, depending on local ambient scenarios - the 2.8L KJ's idle times would be during the hour-long commute to-and-fro work, very insignificant comparatively, but we got EPA on our passenger-vehicle backs, and there are a lot more of us than 18-wheelers, so we gotta eat EGR for breakfast-dinner-supper and snacks

Imo, EGR is much better than that thing on the tail-end of FORD's Diesels, where ya gotta urinate into the tank for it to work............

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:47 pm

gmctd wrote:

Imo, EGR is much better than that thing on the tail-end of FORD's Diesels, where ya gotta urinate into the tank for it to work............

You mean the thing thats SO close to the diesel fill, that customers have put DEF fluid in their diesel tanks!

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:11 pm

Most excellent and enjoyable humor, all :lol:

I learned early-on, back in the '60's-'70's, that stick-shift induced turbo lag could be easily eliminated by replacing the manual trans with a beefed-up slush-box - turbo would quickly spool-up to required BOOST levels as engine rpms came up against stall-speed, and all this at stopped condition, before vehicle even started moving - spooled-up BOOST might vary only minutely as trans up-shifted thru the ranges after launch - meanwhile, guy in next lane would have little BOOST at launch, and lose BOOST each time clutch was disengaged for shifting, with resultant complaint of, you guessed it: turbo-lag - this is a common complaint amongst all manually-shifted turbocharged vehicles, even without blow-off\pop-off valves

Only reason I prefer manual-shifting now is I can get into top gear and overdrive as desired, long as I'm not lugging the big 6 - but, at 74yrs, I do enjoy the lack of abuse on these old joints by not having to continuously use that cutch pedal in city scenarios

Almost fergot: I injected the big NV5600 6-spd early-on into the '96 dooley's upgrades - the '01 dooley is beefed 48RE with low-stall TCC - I prefer to let the transmission manage the torque, rather than converter-slip slush, which always gives me the feeling of a badly-slipping manual clutch

But, I never experienced any turbo-bark, so was of little concern

And, we still got EGR and soot, so there....................

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:02 pm

"urinating into the tank to make it go".

Now THAT IS AN IMAGE I really didn't need to 'see'. :ROTFL:

Ford's 'better idea'??

Although, some of them smell like a wicked asparagus wiz.. Ok, I'm done!

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 292

ArmyChief wrote:

GDE Tune STILL has EGR activated on decel. Be interesting to see what it would look like if you installed Sasquatch MS Intake Elbow kit with EGR block-off plate.

Will let you know in a few thousand miles. I have SEGR and now WEEKS KIT. Totally removed EGR, EGR cooler, Flow Control Valve, and EGR to EGR cooler joining block ( probably has a real name).

camo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 30, 2014 12:19 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Very simple solution for all of this as some of us have already done!
No matter what tune you have, stock, GDE, Yeti, or SEGR, get the Weeks FCV elimination elbow kit and install it! No possibility of any EGR (SOOT) getting into the intake anymore.
Problem solved.... :-)r

You know, if I were really concerned about any high overpressure or backpressure during any mode of operation, I would simply add a blow off valve like the gassers run on their turbo systems. There are plenty available on the Web and very simple to install.... :?:

Don't waste money on a blow off valve. If you are tick by the small amount of EGR that could enter your engine in your dragster dreams, just separate the EGR tube coming from the exhaust manifold block it and leave the inlet side of the EGR open to act as blow off valve if you have a GDE tune install. It will even give you a bit of the cool blow off valve sound.
:dizzy:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:08 pm

So, if all of your EGR components "fell off", then would a blow-off valve be a cheap way to protect my new $1200 turbo? Where would be the best place to install such a device (in the weeks kit tube?)?

Thanks for all of the diesel education fellas :rockon:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:59 pm

So I looked at some of those blow offs. Looks like one might be able to be had for $150. That sounds like cheap insurance since when our turbo goes, it can take the engine with it. Would anyone know of one that might be a good fit? It would almost have to be wired in with the throttle position sensor wouldn't it? How else would it know to open? Maybe the $500 ones sense a change in pressure or shift in airflow? :frankie:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:30 pm

Mountainman wrote:

So I looked at some of those blow offs. Looks like one might be able to be had for $150. That sounds like cheap insurance since when our turbo goes, it can take the engine with it. Would anyone know of one that might be a good fit? It would almost have to be wired in with the throttle position sensor wouldn't it? How else would it know to open? Maybe the $500 ones sense a change in pressure or shift in airflow? :frankie:

Every blow off valve I have seen is pressure or vacuum activated. The valve is set to open at XX psi or when intake vacuum hits a certain number (like on a gasser when you suddenly take your foot off the gas).
IMO, any kind of blow off valve is completely unneccesary. Unless you are driving your CRD in a road race, constantly on and off the throttle, your turbo will be just fine.
Just drive it in a sensible manner.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:40 pm

Thanks Racer, but what about off road switch backs where I'm constantly accelerating up significantly (no inhibition like city traffic light driving), and then slowing down a lot to make the almost 180 turn, and then back and forth for 30 minutes on steep grades? Probably really hammering the turbo? I turn the 2 hour teeth jarring drive into 4 hours of hell if I don't haul butt!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:32 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Thanks Racer, but what about off road switch backs where I'm constantly accelerating up significantly (no inhibition like city traffic light driving), and then slowing down a lot to make the almost 180 turn, and then back and forth for 30 minutes on steep grades? Probably really hammering the turbo? I turn the 2 hour teeth jarring drive into 4 hours of hell if I don't haul butt!

I see now. You are a Rally Racer. :wink:

Thats cool. Ive often dreamed of rally racing myself.
So tell me, how well does you CRD hang with those WRXs, Evos, and Focuses :lol:

Seriously though, if you think its important, take the lead on this.
Blaze the CRD blow off valve trail and share it with us. No one else has done it.

Most blow off valves bolt to a housing or tube that is spliced into one of the CAC hoses.
You would have to find or make something that will fit.
And if its a vacuum actuated BOV, I have no idea how to make that work on a diesel.

Edit.
Here is something that might work
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

Without a throttle plate a blowoff valve will do nothing. Gas engines have throttle plates, and when they close all that air has to go somewhere. This would create a big boost spike and hammer on the turbo. So when the differential across the throttle plate gets high enough, the blowoff valve opens and creates a pathway for the pressure. We have no throttle plate to close, thus no way to get a pressure spike on decel.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2015 11:24 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Thanks Racer, but what about off road switch backs where I'm constantly accelerating up significantly (no inhibition like city traffic light driving), and then slowing down a lot to make the almost 180 turn, and then back and forth for 30 minutes on steep grades? Probably really hammering the turbo? I turn the 2 hour teeth jarring drive into 4 hours of hell if I don't haul butt!

I see now. You are a Rally Racer. :wink:

Thats cool. Ive often dreamed of rally racing myself.
So tell me, how well does you CRD hang with those WRXs, Evos, and Focuses :lol:

Seriously though, if you think its important, take the lead on this.
Blaze the CRD blow off valve trail and share it with us. No one else has done it.

Most blow off valves bolt to a housing or tube that is spliced into one of the CAC hoses.
You would have to find or make something that will fit.
And if its a vacuum actuated BOV, I have no idea how to make that work on a diesel.

Edit.
Here is something that might work
http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php

Flash, thanks for the link, and yeah, I drive like a rally racer when it comes to crossing the longest dirt roads in the lower 48. They are so punishing that I just want to be through them, and then I can't wait to be back in the back country as well :CAMPING:

Too bad there just isn't a simple one way valve that wouldn't slow the boost down :ALONE:

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 2:08 am

You guys are always speculating and guessing and going off into the tooleys with half-baked ideas
- yet, I see not a one of you has a BOOST gage or EGT gage installed to actually inform you of what be happenin'
- get some instrumentation on the li'l puffer and you won't be wasting so much unproductive time and (so far, no) effort on unnecessary vention (I would say pre-vention, but there is no vention needing to be pre'ed)

Git'er done, then get back with us vis a vis all the money you didn't spend on unnecessary poop-off valves'n'bypasses and such, eh................

Edit: sp

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:54 am

+1 to gmctd. You can always install a boost controller, they have in cabin remote controls, very nice and expensive ones that let you select the psi when they release. Not a perfect solution but that can be set to for ex 10-15 psi max limit which should reduce the back pressure to the turbo impeller.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:59 pm

Alright, thanks again. I think I'll just wait and see if the turbo holds up, but a boost gauge is definitely a good plan, and I might as well round off a three pod pillar with an egt gauge :rockon:

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 12:33 am

Good start, Mountainman - and, just FYI:
- unless you're constantly running up to 60psi BOOST (and above), a turbocharged Diesel engine does not require a blow-off valve
- if, however, you suddenly back off the APP pedal and your BOOST gage shoots up and pegs out above 30psi, you should prolly contact Rancherman for some good advice on installation and use of a BOV, as he seems fairly knowledgeable about such matters

p.s. FYI: the li'l puffer doesn't need a 60psi BOOST gage - you'll be s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g the envelope to get to 30psi, and you'll appreciate the increased resolution of the 30psi gage at low BOOST levels
- word up, eh....................

MAP Sensor Pics after 37K miles with GDE Eco Tune/EHM

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