Warm re-starting issues

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:24 pm

Gageraid wrote:

I'm gonna throw out there another probably useless question/suggestion.
Does it start up any differently if you try to start it in neutral?

Not sure, never tried it. Not exactly sure what that would prove but it sounds like you may be kicking around an idea Gageraid?

Gageraid · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:00 am

toy4everyseason wrote:

Gageraid wrote:

I'm gonna throw out there another probably useless question/suggestion.
Does it start up any differently if you try to start it in neutral?

Not sure, never tried it. Not exactly sure what that would prove but it sounds like you may be kicking around an idea Gageraid?

I believe that's called your neutral safety switch.
Not sure with a modern car, but older cars are more known for not having linkage correct in park results in not starting.
I've started mine a few times in neutral. I even think it says to do so every so often in the manual.

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:53 am

Gotcha, well I tried it, started like normal but then again I've been having a heck of time getting it to fail on me consistently. I just need it to fail long enough for me to get fuel pressure reading. It's been starting on the 2nd try lately. Murphy's law I guess.

Anyone see a huge safety concern with leaving the fuel tester gauge hooked up to the fuel rail? Part of me wants to so I can pop my hood and watch at each hot start but the other part of me feels the rubber hose is a safety concern due to high pressure fuel & under hood temperates. Would be an instant fire if that hose was to burst over hot exhaust manifolds. :shock:

What's everyone's thoughts?

Scar0 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 5:40 am

Gageraid wrote:

I believe that's called your neutral safety switch.
Not sure with a modern car, but older cars are more known for not having linkage correct in park results in not starting.
I've started mine a few times in neutral. I even think it says to do so every so often in the manual.

If it were the neutral safety switch it should not turn over at all.

toy4everyseason wrote:

Gotcha, well I tried it, started like normal but then again I've been having a heck of time getting it to fail on me consistently. I just need it to fail long enough for me to get fuel pressure reading. It's been starting on the 2nd try lately. Murphy's law I guess.

Anyone see a huge safety concern with leaving the fuel tester gauge hooked up to the fuel rail? Part of me wants to so I can pop my hood and watch at each hot start but the other part of me feels the rubber hose is a safety concern due to high pressure fuel & under hood temperates. Would be an instant fire if that hose was to burst over hot exhaust manifolds. :shock:

What's everyone's thoughts?

I don't know if it is worth the risk...
Pulling the IOD fuse does the same as disconnecting the Neg battery cable. It just resets the computers. The referenced TSB is due to static electricity being discharged into the WCM through the key/steering wheel and column. A little fabric softener spritzed on the seats and floor board will take care of that. Or you can just rub a "Bounce" fabric softener sheet on the same. (bonus is your rig smells good! :BANANA:

)
When this happens is there a lot of static in your rig?

Marlon_JBT · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:10 pm

Neutral makes no difference. Tried it. Same deal.

infernicus · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:02 pm

Something similar happens to mine since I bought it brand new. Dealer had no clue. I've just dealt with it, only once did it take almost 15 minutes to start. I can usually get it started the second or third try.
Mine is an '07 though.. Although I've found out (the hard way) that I have some '08 parts, like the alternator.

Good Luck.

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:50 pm

I don't have the yes fabric so there's always a lot of static electricity in my Jeep.

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Mon Apr 06, 2015 2:00 am

It's been a few weeks & the issue has failed to reoccur in an enough amount of time for me to get a fuel pressure reading. Not exactly sure what is going on here. Could it be as simple as the winter gas blend acting up once the weather gets warmer? I'll keep everyone posted if it rears its ugly head.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:20 am

Have you ever noticed how much fuel you had in the tank when it happens? Any pattern with that?

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:20 pm

Gageraid wrote:

Have you ever noticed how much fuel you had in the tank when it happens? Any pattern with that?

I have, it does it at all levels

Gageraid · **Posted:** Mon Apr 06, 2015 10:22 pm

I'm running out of questions. Keep us posted as usual if it happens again.

Marlon_JBT · **Posted:** Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:22 pm

I still think it's the TIPM. :p

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 12, 2015 1:57 pm

Be sure and read this:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2013/chrysler-tipm-lawsuit-stalling-vehicles.shtml
Most interesting.....

Shaffer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:16 pm

mine is having the same sporadic issue. It cranks perfectly fine but it just keeps cranking. has only done it twice in a week or so. just actually posted a thread about it. going to get a diag on it to see if anything is going on in the ecm. i know that its had a gas cap message before and some rear quarter body work done so do you think that it could be it? had a check engine light on when i picked it up, does overflow with gas, but the CEL went off. id look at the links but my work computer is limited. mine is an 08 is the issues you all are talking about with the over fill a recall?

Shaffer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:45 pm

are the fuel pumps hard to replace? is there like an access hatch inside that you can simply pull it out and replace or do you have to drop the tank? i know with my integra you full the back seats out and there is a cover you remove three screws from and then it basically disconnects and twists out. but thats also a car and a honda. just curious

Shaffer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:51 pm

Had the diagnosis scan done after work and it showed an immobilizer code. There was a bunch of others from low voltage when the battery died. But it's since been replaced. So all codes were cleared and I will continue to pray it doesn't happen again. Keep yall posted.

Scar0 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:50 pm

Shaffer wrote:

are the fuel pumps hard to replace? is there like an access hatch inside that you can simply pull it out and replace or do you have to drop the tank? i know with my integra you full the back seats out and there is a cover you remove three screws from and then it basically disconnects and twists out. but thats also a car and a honda. just curious

You have to drop the tank to access the fuel pump.

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:29 am

Shaffer wrote:

Had the diagnosis scan done after work and it showed an immobilizer code. There was a bunch of others from low voltage when the battery died. But it's since been replaced. So all codes were cleared and I will continue to pray it doesn't happen again. Keep yall posted.

What was the code number?

Shaffer · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:26 am

toy4everyseason wrote:

Shaffer wrote:

Had the diagnosis scan done after work and it showed an immobilizer code. There was a bunch of others from low voltage when the battery died. But it's since been replaced. So all codes were cleared and I will continue to pray it doesn't happen again. Keep yall posted.

What was the code number?

i didnt get it from moab offroad when max scanned it. im going back in a week just for a rescan to see if it returned. i will get the code number if it reappears. sorry for the lack of info. have you had it scanned for any codes. i also had 3 codes for the instrument cluster and some others that max said he had no idea what it was and hes kinda the jeep guru around here.

toy4everyseason · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:25 pm

I have, the only code that came up was for my malfunctioning passenger door switch. You may want to pull the plastic around the steering column & see if the part number on the immobilizer is affected by the TSB indicated earlier in this thread. It's wasn't the case for me but it may be helpful for you.

Warm re-starting issues

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