Okay, recently I ran into a scary situation with my slip yoke, freshly after relocating the axle back an inch and lifting the rear 4 inches.

Some may say there is no issue here, but I wasn't taking any chances. I jumbled around the idea of a traditional driveshaft swap. The wreckers wanted 75 dollars for a driveshaft out of any vehicle. Then there were the u joints, you can't swap a driveshaft without putting new u joints in it. Right?? Well, I guess you could. but.... So I had to think $35 (x2) plus $75 = 145 dollars for a d/s swap.

$199 for a SYE from Advance. things were getting expensive fast.

So I ran into another idea, it appears the yota boys are running flange spacers/pinion spacers/drive shaft extenders... whatever you wanna call them.

So I went nuts with CAD and in an hour I had the designs for a spacer. After the spacer was cut on the water jet and my buddy turned the shoulders into it, I was out a whopping grand total of $55 dollars.

Here she is:

p.s. I understand the necessity of Loctite... but I Fing hate it!!!





by design, there is .015" play on the inside. You shouldn't have a problem with it, but I didn't take chances.

1. Snug the spacer up, but don't torque it down.
2. Place dial indicator (with magnetic base) on pinion flange guard bracket.
3. Measure run out of pinion flange.
4. Measure run out of spacer, tap spacer with hammer until the run out matches the pinion flange.
5. torque down 4 bolts in criss cross pattern a little at a time either side.
6. remeasure run out

follow the above steps and the spacer will be perfectly concentric to your driveshaft flange thus causing no vibes and no worries about pinion bearings.

enjoy.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

And then use grade 8.8 bolts as the driveshaft falls from under vehicle.......................................................................

this would not be good.

lol

10.9? Lemme know what I should use and I will switch em out tomorrow.

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Id say 10.9.

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Yeah I'd go with grade 10.9 since your using a spacer which adds a lot of stress to those bolts.

Yeah I won't be "honking" on it anymore. Lol.

I suppose I could bolt the spacer to the flange itself. Using the other four holes, then counter sink the bolts?

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

If I use 10.9 Allen heads I may not have to countersink. Will see tomorrow.

What is your thought on having the step on either side? If the inside diameter was exactly the same as the pinion side, would a step still be needed on the d/s side? Given that I will be redundantly bolting the spacer to the flange ten the d/s to the flange through the spacer.

Does anybody think this will cause an issue with run out?

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Update.

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Dude, i need this, just called the driveshaft place, $189 to extend my shaft.

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

Email me again.

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --