just quit

jaym540 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:53 pm **Posts:** 59

need help!!!!
Driving 2006 2.8l through mountains. Lost power, checked gauges everthing was normal temp was center, engine cut of by itself. pulled over, tried to start started 1 min, cut off, temp pegged hot after cut off. opened hood, smoke was coming of turbo. coolant was not hot. would not start. towed home. will not start now. will fire for 30 seconds every now and then.

i understand the turbo may be gone but it should still idle right? ideas?

Jeep has GDE eco tune, egr delete, sunco hoses, new transmition, timing belt, idlers, pullies, waterpump, thermostat, and glow plug (metal) upgrade where all done about 6k miles ago :banghead:

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:11 pm

Ok, hang on.

"will fire for 30 sec now and again" you say. Does this mean the engine runs for 30 seconds, but then stalls again, or that you are only able to crank it for 30 seconds, and then it stops allowing you to crank?

Is there any water in the coolant bottle? Was there any smoke from the tailpipe? The turbo is oil cooled not water cooled - so the water temps shouldn't be related, but is the water level still normal? Oil level? Were there any noises like screeching / howling / scraping sounds?

The temp gauge could be pegged because of an air bubble in the water system, but after so many miles since the last time the system was opened (presumably) the bubbles should have all gotten to the water bottle. Sudden spiking when all else is normal suggests a failed temp sender probe, but the smoke off the turbo housing suggests a hot turbo and or maybe a water leak somehow. I realize you probably didn't have the cabin heat on, but if you did, was there any heat from the vents to suggest that there was water in the system and flowing normally?

jaym540 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:53 pm **Posts:** 59

will start then stop. fluid is at normal level, heat was off. turbo does have play but should idle right?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:37 am

It would seem that the smoke from the turbo and the engine starting and quitting are unrelated.
The only way I could see the turbo smoking would be from some fluid dripping on it.
Like maybe coolant dripping from the coolant tank onto the turbo or maybe an oil leak from the turbo oil supply line.

My guess is that the engine starting and quitting is because of something electrical.

So, if you were to try turning the key on right now (not starting the engine), what does the engine temperature gauge show?
The gauge should be on C because the engine is cold.
If the gauge peggs all the way to H, then there is a problem with the temperature sensor.

Another possibility is the crankshaft position sensor.
These are known to go bad and cause the engine to quit running.
A bad CPS should cause the check engine light to come on with a related trouble code.
However, that doesn't always happen.

Of course, the easiest thing to check is the fuel supply.
Lack of fuel or fuel pressure will definitely cause the engine to quit.
Probably should check your fuel filter and fuel lines first.

And yes, the engine should start and run at idle without a turbo.

olypopper · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:58 am

X2 on checking the easy items first like fuel. Rule out basics.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:23 pm

I spoke with him on the phone for a while (I should have updated the thread after that call) and this is the list of symptoms and possible answers:

This is a CRD that I worked on last April, and has driven about 6k miles since then. The repair work was to recover from a bad timing job by someone else and assist in actually getting the engine to start, he proceeded to finish the rebuild after that point. It has also (unrelated to my work) suffered a turbo failure and the replacements (yes, plural) are a cautionary tale about why you should only ever buy genuine Garrett. Rebuilds or Chinese knock-offs just aren't worth the "savings" when all is said and done.

So the turbo smoking is most likely due to it failing out again, being a poor quality Chinese cartridge. Discount that symptom, he will be planning on the GDE turbo to resolve that system once and for all.

The water level is normal and the water is clean. The system was not "smelling hot" when he was on the side of the road, so the engine had not overheated. The oil level is normal and does not have any signs of contamination.

The current symptoms are strongly related to air in fuel, and a highly suspect tankful that was put in about 40 miles prior to the engine stalling the first time. The filter was drained, and what came out initially didn't smell at all like diesel fuel - which suggests a big slug of water (or a tankful!) got into the system. As we all know, water doesn't burn real well.

He had already unhooked the #1 injector line, so the fuel rail now also has an air bubble to deal with as well. The next step he will be trying is to remove the fuel rail itself and drain it, replace the fuel filter with a fresh one pre-filled with Power Service, and connect the filter's inlet side to a jug of *clean* fresh diesel. Tighten everything except the #4 injector line at the rail and crank the engine until fuel spits from that nut... Then lock it down and try starting.

At this point with fresh fuel and power service, the engine SHOULD start with a minimum of fuss. Then he has the task of draining the fuel tank of whatever is in it (of course it is a full tank, thanks Murphy) and refilling that with fresh diesel too.

The temp gauge issue is most likely a computer glitch or a buggy sensor, although he did get a new sensor when he replaced the thermostat last year. That doesn't mean that the Chinese sensor is any good however, but I do not believe that the water system is damaged in any way.

jaym540 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:53 pm **Posts:** 59

changed filter, added diesel 911, bleed filter and rail same result.

flash7210 ill order a new sensor tomorrow. not showing code but hey probably will fail soon if it isnt now.

anybody have any other suggestions.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Apr 10, 2015 12:01 am

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but keeping at it is probably the best bet. Getting the engine running again after bad fuel can take quite some time. I don't know the volume of fuel that the fuel pump can contain, but if a substantial amount of that is water... Well, you know the rest.

I wouldn't crank the engine too much however, no more than 5 seconds on, 15 seconds off. The starter will generate a LOT of heat and you don't want it to overheat and possibly damage itself.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Sounds like it is time for a quick shot of ether.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:53 am

Ether is very bad for diesels normally, but if you disconnect the intake hose and just a very quick spritz into the intake (fcv) elbow, that may help. But if the fuel pump is still full of water, it won't help you much. You just need to purge that out and get the good fuel into the pump eventually.

jaym540 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:53 pm **Posts:** 59

I have put over 2 gallons through the fuel pump still same results

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