Gearing up for a tear-down. Rod bolt torque, proper wrench..

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:29 pm

Well, it's about time I start getting anything I don't already have to replace a sleeve (stealership sanded it down .030" while cleaning the block, and it subsequently ate 2 or 3 head gaskets, then I bought the jeep from another LOST member). I think I have everything other than a torque wrench with the degrees on it. I guess I could just mark it and torque being that I'll only be worrying about the rod bolts, I think?
I sure would like to come up with a basic ft/lbs value for torquing rods, but who want's to experiment with an engine this costly?

I've got to take a closer look at the other sleeve rims, but I think I only have to replace one. I plan on opting for one new sleeve, and piston rings (just that cylinder), shims etc, but reuse the old piston. The engine is still like new at 88k miles, like almost no wear. It had a GDE tune most of it's life, so I don't see any point in replacing the piston. Plus, last I checked the new pistons are different weights, and you have to match them, but I was talking to the UK outfit, so maybe IDparts ones would match. Just wanted to pass on my findings on that.

Any wisdom on stuff I might mess up on this engine is greatly appreciated!

lacabrera · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:40 pm

If you don't know all ready the rod bolts are also TTY bolts, just like the head bolts. They should be replaced with new on installation.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 5:02 pm

lacabrera wrote:

If you don't know all ready the rod bolts are also TTY bolts, just like the head bolts. They should be replaced with new on installation.

Right on, thanks man! I knew that, but completely forgot that I needed to add a set to the list :dizzy:

I guess I'll have to pull the crank out to remove one piston and sleeve (?), so I'll need a full set of rod bolts, main seal, and an oil pan seal also?

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:58 pm

Which CRD is this now? You got yet another one?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:13 pm

Dang your going in deep. Post plenty of pics. There is one local to me that ate a piston and head and I'm debating picking it up

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:36 pm

geordi wrote:

Which CRD is this now? You got yet another one?

Well, this is one I've been sitting on for a long time because others were easier. But, yes, I did buy another one today :5SHOTS:

This is the one that another Lost member brought to the dealer on warranty for head gasket 3 times until he was finally fed up with it, and sold it to me. Leave it to a dealer to throw that many head gaskets at an engine without even seeing the obvious. The sleeve is sanded down just enough to see :banghead:

Crazy how much trouble being rough with a diesel block can cause...

-Jws, I will try to master posting pics on here. I guess if I can load a tune to the ECU, I should be able to remember how to post pics!
If you can get it cheap it might be fun, or an expensive lesson. I think I'm just going to buy one of the torque wrenches that has the degree dial on it, but then I'll be tempted to buy more CRDs with toasted engines :juggle:

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 1:47 pm

YoU might think about a new set of o-rings for the oil squirters. I would pull all four and clean them out while you're there. You will probably want new o-rings for the dipstick tube, and the oil pick up tube. You'll need a tool to pull the bearing retainer pins, and you'll want new o-rings for those. You'll also need n new set of bolts for the crank hub adapter (also T.T.Y.) . All you need for the torque angles is a 30/60/90 triangle and a marker.

That's all I can think of for now.

Mike

lacabrera · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:15 pm

You should be able to replace the sleeve with out removing the crank unless you wont to check the condition of all the bearings and crank journals as I did.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:34 pm

lacabrera wrote:

You should be able to replace the sleeve with out removing the crank unless you wont to check the condition of all the bearings and crank journals as I did.

That's what I'm talking about! This engine is like new at 88k miles, GDE tuned most of it's life. As soon as I get my spare engine off the stand, I'll have to rip this one apart to test that theory.

Anyone know for sure if you can pull one liner without removing the crank?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:35 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

YoU might think about a new set of o-rings for the oil squirters. I would pull all four and clean them out while you're there. You will probably want new o-rings for the dipstick tube, and the oil pick up tube. You'll need a tool to pull the bearing retainer pins, and you'll want new o-rings for those. You'll also need n new set of bolts for the crank hub adapter (also T.T.Y.) . All you need for the torque angles is a 30/60/90 triangle and a marker.

That's all I can think of for now.

Mike

Thanks Mike! Would my carpentry speed square work? :dizzy:

lacabrera · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:54 pm

The sleeve pull out from the top so ne need to remove the crank. Mine were in good condition so i had no need to pull them out. My motor had 82,000 miles on it, The crank was in good condition as was the big end bearings but 2 of the 5 main bearings were bad. But I replaced all main and big end shells for peace of mind. If you decide to replace the rear main bearing its a f-cker to press into the bearing carrier.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:10 pm

I basically used one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Smoke-tint-Triang ... 0+triangle

The sleeves DO pull out from the top, but I'm not sure how you would get the tool in there to do it without pulling the crank. Mine we're in there pretty tight. I didn't have the sleeve tool, so I built my own using a 2 pieces of steel, 3/4" threaded rod w/3 nuts, and a 6" long piece of steel pipe wide enough for the sleeve to fit through.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:54 pm

lacabrera wrote:

The sleeve pull out from the top so ne need to remove the crank. Mine were in good condition so i had no need to pull them out. My motor had 82,000 miles on it, The crank was in good condition as was the big end bearings but 2 of the 5 main bearings were bad. But I replaced all main and big end shells for peace of mind. If you decide to replace the rear main bearing its a f-cker to press into the bearing carrier.

Thanks again, looks like I may be getting by without nearly as much work as I expected :rockon:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:57 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

I basically used one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Smoke-tint-Triang ... 0+triangle

The sleeves DO pull out from the top, but I'm not sure how you would get the tool in there to do it without pulling the crank. Mine we're in there pretty tight. I didn't have the sleeve tool, so I built my own using a 2 pieces of steel, 3/4" threaded rod w/3 nuts, and a 6" long piece of steel pipe wide enough for the sleeve to fit through.

Thanks Mike, I have the factory tool set, so I'll have to take a look at the puller. But, I think it has two flat sides so that it can be inserted from the top, but I've never used it. Hopefully they designed it to pull without pulling the crank. I'll be impressed if so

Gearing up for a tear-down. Rod bolt torque, proper wrench..

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