Hey everyone,

My 2005 4WD has recently developed this almost "clinking/jingleing" noise while I am going down the road. I have been under it, removed all the armor plates, banged on everything, and the only thing I can find that seems to make a noise similar to what I hear while driving is the front driveshaft. I am hearing this while in 2Hi. I was just wondering if anyone had any insight as to what this could be. Also, I was thinking that it may be a good idea to replace all the joints, seals, fluids, etc... for the whole drivetrain(I am at about 120,000 miles). While I am in this process, is it okay to drive around with the front driveshaft removed, as long as I stay in 2Hi?

Thank you much for any info/experience you have to offer!

The noise is coming from your front driveshaft.
Most likely the joint at the transfer case.
Its fairly easy to replace.

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U.S. Army Retired

I had a similar noise and also thought it was the joint on the front shaft, I even removed the shaft to rule it out and the noise was still there. it ended up being the rear u-joint on the rear drive shaft. I had checked it a couple of times as the noise had gone on for like 8 months but never found anything, but then the other day I went to change the oil so I wiggled the driveshaft while i was under there and the U-joint was about to come apart. I think the bearings had failed and were slowly grinding into dust. Now that I changed it all the noises I was having are gone.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Also check the rear wheel backing plates.
My 06 has a loose one and it sounds like I'm dragging tin pie plates down the road.

Gyro

Yes, you can remove it and drive in 2wd.

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03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

On the front drive shaft, Is it a good idea to use anything on the bolt threads on either end. It looked like the had thread sealer on them when I took them off.

We did not mark the shaft position when we removed the front drive shaft? Can this be an issue?

I was wondering thread sealer? Anti-seez? or maybe Blue removable Loctite? Blue Loctite seems to be the answer

Does anybody know the torque spec for the bolts?

SHAFT-PROPELLER FRONT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL – 2.8L DIESEL
1. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove left side exhaust flange (1) bolts. We never messed with the exhaust at all. Never saw an issue there. Maybe we will when we re-install
3. Mark companion flanges (3) and C/V joints at the
front (2) and rear of the propeller shaft for installation
reference.
4. Remove bolts (1) from the front and rear C/V joints.
5. Push propeller shaft forward to clear transfer case
companion flange (2).
6. Remove shaft from the front axle companion
flange.
7. Pull down on the exhaust and tilt the front of the
shaft down and pull shaft forward and remove from
the vehicle.

INSTALLATION – 2.8L DIESEL
1. Install propeller shaft between companion flanges.
2. Align marks on the companion flanges with the
marks on the C/V joints.
3. Install front C/V joint bolts and tighten to 30 N·m
(22 ft. lbs.).
4. Install rear C/V joint bolts (1) and tighten to 30 N·m
(22 ft. lbs.).
5. Install exhaust flange (1) and bolts.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700