pulled the CRD out and put it back- started then big problem

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:52 pm

dirtmover wrote:

toolmanmike wrote:

It was owned by a municipality before me so I assume oil was done by there mechanics and pretty regularly but you never know.

Agreed on the frequency but they may not have paid too much attention to the spec instead using whatever they use for their other vehicles.

There's a general consensus among many of the members here that incorrect viscosity or use of an oil not containing the the appropriate additive package for diesel vehicles may result in premature rocker wear and eventual failure.

Besides being broken do you see any abnormal wear?

Plus 1 on this. Many "mechanics" think in 1980s age regarding oil...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2015 11:10 pm

thermorex wrote:

dirtmover wrote:

toolmanmike wrote:

It was owned by a municipality before me so I assume oil was done by there mechanics and pretty regularly but you never know.

Agreed on the frequency but they may not have paid too much attention to the spec instead using whatever they use for their other vehicles.

There's a general consensus among many of the members here that incorrect viscosity or use of an oil not containing the the appropriate additive package for diesel vehicles may result in premature rocker wear and eventual failure.

Besides being broken do you see any abnormal wear?

Plus 1 on this. Many "mechanics" think in 1980s age regarding oil...

x3 I forgot about oil.
hmm, I never thought to ask. Have any of you that bought your CRD new, and changed your oil solely at home (and you know you only used approved TD oil), or at the dealership, (I guess they might slip up and use the wrong oil also) had rocker failures? Tempted to start a thread about this...

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2015 4:05 pm

I factory ordered mine and have done all but the first two oil changes on it. Always use Shell Rotella 5w-40.

I broke all the exhaust side rockers last fall, my own fault. I got the timing off when reassembling after tightening the head bolts. changed out all the rockers. They all looked very good after 130k.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Wed Nov 25, 2015 11:47 am

Mine was miss treated badly by previous owners hence having to rebuild the bottom end with new bearing shells/seals and piston rings, but all the rockers were in good shape? A small amount of play on 2 but nothing like broken. With the amount of CRD's here you would think I would hear of similar problems but no?

toolmanmike · **Joined:** Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:16 am **Posts:** 15

Here I am again. I got all the parts I ordered and started to pull the rockers and found broken push rods as well. I pulled the head since I was in there anyway and everything inside was just fine. NOW I need a head gasket. Mine is a 1 hole (1.42) and I can't find just the gasket!!!!!
Dealer is closed for the weekend. Any ideas? All the "kits" i find online have head bolts included. I already bought the ARP bolts so I don't need the bolts and $270 bucks is pretty steep. I just want a head gasket. Parts are killing me!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:20 pm

Pushrods?
This engine doesnt have pushrods.
I hope you are not taking about broken valve stems cause that would be bad.
Maybe you meant broken lash adjusters, which would be ok because your new rockers should have also come with new lash adjusters.

I have only seen the head gasket for sale as a kit with new head bolts.
I have two unused sets of new head bolts.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:58 pm

Check ebay uk. My last 1 hole gasket I bought on there. I think is was $115

rankom · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 1:55 pm

ok because cylinder head is removed , i woud sugest to take it to machine shop ,get them to remove valves ,for inspection and cleaning , do not resurface cylinder head ! reason for this is to make sure everting is ok no sticking valve or gummed up intake valve guide (possibly if valves not closing fast enough do to gummed up guides can explain broken rockers on intake side only) and on high engine rpm i think its possible valve piston contact , this is only my guess but anyway good cleaning and valve inspection won't hurt,

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 4:47 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Check ebay uk. My last 1 hole gasket I bought on there. I think is was $115

IDparts has the gasket with bolts for $130 + shipping. It will arrive faster than ordering from the UK.

rankom · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:23 pm

reason i was suggesting earlier about inspecting cylinder head and valves was to be 100% is we seen enough dropping valves scenario, and we all spend to much money on this lovely jeep , so we say no more , no more and we still spending , so please double check and good luck

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 29, 2015 6:52 pm

flash7210 wrote:

jws84_02 wrote:

Check ebay uk. My last 1 hole gasket I bought on there. I think is was $115

IDparts has the gasket with bolts for $130 + shipping. It will arrive faster than ordering from the UK.

Have you done it? Last one I ordered I recieved in 3 days. Any who, I didn't realize Id parts is that cheap now. I will go to them from now on

toolmanmike · **Joined:** Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:16 am **Posts:** 15

Original poster here... Jeep is still not running. combination of parts backordered and life getting in the way. I did replace head gasket, head bolts, all 16 rocker arms, timing belt kit, water pump, Installed stage 1&2 EGR delete elbow, filled with coolant and cranked it up!

WHAT A NOISE! Thought the engine was running with no oil in it! Scared me to death. Im into this thing for over $1500 in parts and 3 weeks in my shop. Sound was banging. I shut it down right away and checked oil, fluids, gauges, hoses, and leaks. Nothing. I started it back up and let it idle for 30 seconds. Noise got quieter but did not go away. I now have codes! I knew I was going to get the EGR codes but Ive got some weird ones that don't make sense. I KNOW the thing is timed right. I KNOW it. checked 3 times before I put it together.

Will this engine buck and hammer just because air got in the fuel rail? I assume it will self bleed through the return lines. Any input there folks?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:57 pm

Yes, if you didn't pre-fill the fuel rail, then any noises you are hearing are based on really poor combustion.

Let it idle for at least 5 minutes before deciding if there is anything else going on. The engine will eventually smooth out.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 4:41 pm

Also, exhaust leaks.
When I put my head back together the first time I had to re-tighten the turbo bolts and downpipe clamp.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:06 pm

Yeah, I just put one together the other day and it had a really nasty metallic tick. Finally figured out the filter head was sucking air. I could pump the primer while it was running and make the noise stop completely! After having the head shaved smooth I was really worried, but it's just fine, just air.
New filter head on order, just in time for the holiday rush :banghead:

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:27 pm

did you take your injectors to fuel injection shop? i know they don't fail but just asking.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 10:40 pm

rankom wrote:

did you take your injectors to fuel injection shop? i know they don't fail but just asking.

I haven't. The only problem I've seen with them is on my daily driver, and it runs a little rough when it's below 60 degrees or so, but smooths out pretty fast. I'll eventually try to find which one it is, and send it off for a rebuild.

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Dec 15, 2015 11:23 pm

reason why I'm always preaching about injector health is because it feeds diesel engine with proper amount of fuel , often they don't do there job properly and it is some times mistakenly overlooked, and they can make engine run funny and metallically noisy, so i say it is good practice to take them to a fuel shop for health check, and why not spend few more bucks just to be 100 % sure. this is only my old school .oh and noise in diesel engine can come from many other places don't we know,,,

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:14 am

rankom wrote:

reason why I'm always preaching about injector health is because it feeds diesel engine with proper amount of fuel , often they don't do there job properly and it is some times mistakenly overlooked, and they can make engine run funny and metallically noisy, so i say it is good practice to take them to a fuel shop for health check, and why not spend few more bucks just to be 100 % sure. this is only my old school .oh and noise in diesel engine can come from many other places don't we know,,,

I agree if you have time that you might as well get them checked. I need to get a feel for the local Bosch outlet and see if I can trust them. I think I'll monitor my fuel mileage with my 200k miles injectors, and then get them checked, and look for a difference. I'm definitely going to add secondary filtration to make them last, although they go for about $200 used on ebay, which isn't that much if you get a good one.

olypopper · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2015 2:38 am

toolmanmike wrote:

Original poster here... Jeep is still not running. combination of parts backordered and life getting in the way. I did replace head gasket, head bolts, all 16 rocker arms, timing belt kit, water pump, Installed stage 1&2 EGR delete elbow, filled with coolant and cranked it up!

WHAT A NOISE! Thought the engine was running with no oil in it! Scared me to death. Im into this thing for over $1500 in parts and 3 weeks in my shop. Sound was banging. I shut it down right away and checked oil, fluids, gauges, hoses, and leaks. Nothing. I started it back up and let it idle for 30 seconds. Noise got quieter but did not go away. I now have codes! I knew I was going to get the EGR codes but Ive got some weird ones that don't make sense. I KNOW the thing is timed right. I KNOW it. checked 3 times before I put it together.

Will this engine buck and hammer just because air got in the fuel rail? I assume it will self bleed through the return lines. Any input there folks?

Did you get a list of the codes? Have you had a chance to run it any longer to see if it's aerated fuel/combustion noise?

pulled the CRD out and put it back- started then big problem

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