Another Oil Discussion Amsoil 0W40 Full SAPS

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 4:03 am

Now that my EGR system mysteriously fell from my CRD and weeks kit stage 1&2 has been Installed.I was looking for Amsoil 0W40 Full SAPS oil but can't find it on there maybe they change to ESP euro oil. Any one using this is welcome to share. I have had good results with 5W40 Chevron Delo but with new glow plugs , rockers & longer cold starts has got me thinking in terms of 0W40. I did use Liqui Molly for 5K with good OCI but can't get my hands on it anymore.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:21 am

Some Canadian members have posted about using Mobil Delvac 0w-40.
I've never seen it available here in the US but apparently its available in Canada.

olypopper · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 2:55 pm

I'm running Shell Rotella T6 and Delo 0w40 synthetics in mine and it does fine starting in interior Alaska. Rotellat T6 was on sale here at Napa for 19.00 per gallon............I may have stocked up a little. :SOMBRERO:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 3:32 pm

That's a great price on Rotella T-6 as it's currently ca $27 at Amazon Prime up from ca. $19.50 in July, no clue why.

As for oil to use. Lots of debate not helped by the DCJ 05/06 owner's manuals being partially wrong. 0W-40 or 5W-40 weight full synthetic oil is fine (not much practical difference between the 2 except at extremely low temps) but where possible you need to pay attention to the API rating which is where the manual is wrong. It calls for API - CF which is a 1994 standard applicable to off-road diesel engines with no turbo. The 05/06 CRDs were designed to run on "low sulphur" diesel but came out when it was obvious that ULSD would be the standard in 2007 AND they had to meet the 2004 emission standards. Under those circumstances, the Owner's Manual notwithstanding, the proper recommended API oil rating should have been API CI-4 (CJ-4 being a "higher" rating is perfectly fine). See the Engine Oil Guide link at http://www.api.org/Certification-Progra ... Categories for a better explanation of API ratings.

Bottom line any name brand full synthetic oil 0/5W-40 CI-4 or CJ-4 oil will do fine. In markets where oil does not have API ratings I have no opinion beyond full synthetic and 0/5W-40

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 3:39 pm

Make sure you check the actual viscosity of the 0W oil before you go for it. I know the mobil1 0W30 and 0W20 were actually more viscous than there 5W counterparts until you got to some extremely cold temperatures, like -20, where they would become thinner.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 5:04 pm

I run the Amsoil 5W40 FULL SAPS during the winter months. No issues with it.

amslube · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:23 pm

During my 8 years of CRD ownership, my oil of choice was the Amsoil Series 3000 HDD 5W-30. Ran extended drains and backed up with oil analysis. No oil issues, rocker issues, or turbo issues for my 100K+ miles of ownership. As some may remember, my CRD developed a severely cracked engine block earlier this year which forced me to sell "as is" and move on (118K miles on the odometer). Replacement vehicle, 2015 Cherokee Latitude, flawless so far after 12K miles.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I'm at 152,000 miles with NO rocker replacement (yet). Either 5w40 T6 or any 15w40 in the warm months depending on what's on the shelf in my garage and either Mobil 1 5w40 or 0w40 in winter months. I started out with 5w40 in the warm months but switched to 15w40 later on to save money and engine seemed to do ok with this oil but did cost about 1/2mpg.

I don't think that using a high dollar oil is that important since I decreased my oil change intervals from 10k to 5k to reduce soot loading and prevent premature valve train issues.

amslube · **Posted:** Sat Dec 12, 2015 8:06 am

Just wondering...did you do any oil analysis sampling to determine the amount of soot loading in your oil? My last 3 oil analysis reports before I sold my CRD with the cracked block were .8% - 21,565 miles on the oil (Jan. 2013), .5% - 12,700 miles on the oil (April 2014), and 1.2% with 24,098 miles on the oil (Feb. 2015), well below "Normal". I did have bypass oil filtration and GDE tune.

These numbers are guidelines to use for soot levels taken from Oil Analyzers:
Soot (Diesel Only) <3.4%-Normal, 3.5% - 4.9%-Elevated, 5.0% - 6.9%-Abnormal, >7.0%-Critical

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Dec 12, 2015 1:28 pm

amslube wrote:

Just wondering...did you do any oil analysis sampling to determine the amount of soot loading in your oil? My last 3 oil analysis reports before I sold my CRD with the cracked block were .8% - 21,565 miles on the oil (Jan. 2013), .5% - 12,700 miles on the oil (April 2014), and 1.2% with 24,098 miles on the oil (Feb. 2015), well below "Normal". I did have bypass oil filtration and GDE tune.

These numbers are guidelines to use for soot levels taken from Oil Analyzers:
Soot (Diesel Only) <3.4%-Normal, 3.5% - 4.9%-Elevated, 5.0% - 6.9%-Abnormal, >7.0%-Critical

So, according to the lab 20k + oil changes are safe? I know they would tell us to change our oil every day if they could get away with it, that's why I buy oil stock :lol:

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Sat Dec 12, 2015 2:49 pm

I got my OCI testing from Blackstone and they do not have soot or TBN on regular testing kit for more $ they could do that. My next test kits will have this data for a lot less $. Eventually i would love to get my hands on a bypass filtration kit too. Now i wanted to get the Full Saps oil but the do not sell them labeled as such it is labeled under Euro and that oil is rated differently mercedes and volvo std. I am looking for CJI API ratings or would just use what u used 5W30 atlest it is rated for Diesel. One thing I read on AMSOIL site they do not want any additives in oil at all and i kinda like to Put REV-X and Liqui Moly for my peace of mind never ran my oil more than 3K miles or 5K Kms. I guess you do not need any extra stuff when the additive pack is 10 TBN strong and has full SAPS in it.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sat Dec 12, 2015 4:47 pm

Srytrucker wrote:

I got my OCI testing from Blackstone and they do not have soot or TBN on regular testing kit for more $ they could do that. My next test kits will have this data for a lot less $. Eventually i would love to get my hands on a bypass filtration kit too. Now i wanted to get the Full Saps oil but the do not sell them labeled as such it is labeled under Euro and that oil is rated differently mercedes and volvo std. I am looking for CJI API ratings or would just use what u used 5W30 atlest it is rated for Diesel. One thing I read on AMSOIL site they do not want any additives in oil at all and i kinda like to Put REV-X and Liqui Moly for my peace of mind never ran my oil more than 3K miles or 5K Kms. I guess you do not need any extra stuff when the additive pack is 10 TBN strong and has full SAPS in it.

It's not much more money. As long as I went to the trouble of having a test, I just do it.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 12, 2015 5:21 pm

Drewd wrote:

I'm at 152,000 miles with NO rocker replacement (yet). Either 5w40 T6 or any 15w40 in the warm months depending on what's on the shelf in my garage and either Mobil 1 5w40 or 0w40 in winter months. I started out with 5w40 in the warm months but switched to 15w40 later on to save money and engine seemed to do ok with this oil but did cost about 1/2mpg.

I don't think that using a high dollar oil is that important since I decreased my oil change intervals from 10k to 5k to reduce soot loading and prevent premature valve train issues.

I am glad that I am not the only one running 15W40 during the summer. I did have my rockers done, but that was probably damaged from the PO, as I had just bought the Jeep.

Another Oil Discussion Amsoil 0W40 Full SAPS

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