Hi, First up I think you fellas here are great!

Having successfully Repaired my Jeep Chereokee 2.8 (UK Export Model) with the help of you guys, I have picked up another car a Chrysler Voyager(town and country) 2004 2.8CRD Export.

It has covered 134,000Miles and had a cambelt failure. I Have rebuilt the rockers, cambelt and Injectors.

It however has a few faults.

It will sometime exhibit no power, almost always after turning left? if throttle off then re-applied it normally picks up like normal, but occasionally stays for a long time...

Only code derived from the key on trick is P0100 MAF circuit malfunction...

Now I have taken out the MAP/Air temp sensor to clean it and noticed that the air sensor is very floppy. this is not like either of the other two sensors i have had, my spare sensor is not part matching and brings up a CEL. could this be a problem?

what voltage output should be present at connector for air temp?

other things to note - i have ABS, Brake and Airbag lights illuminated. - these are next on the list.

This CRD is like most pre 2006 export CRD's (wastegated turbo, no pressure release solenoid, basic EGR)

Is Intake temp and MAF linked?

You are going to have to do some serious investigative work in your own here. A FWD minivan is a totally different layout than a 4WD jeep.
If it looses power when turning its because something like wiring, sensor, or fuel line is moving or shifting during the turn.
So start up the engine and start shaking wires and things to see if the engine stumbles, sputters, or stalls.

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U.S. Army Retired

whilst the layout is different the engine and ecu is the same.. This is the best forum worldwide for crd's!, I will be digging deep in this motor - I will not be defeated. it is hard to replicate as it idles and revs fine...

Just stripped down the MAF to give it a clean, and noticed it is massively dirty, could not see the sensor wires, so this cant have been helping at all. Volts all present and correct at MAF connector. Hopefully will report back when I find something.

i say ,replace maf sensor , anyway is old and my be damaged , missing resistor or someting? after that clear codes , see if does it again , if not electrical , could have problem in the fuel tank sending unit , (fuel slush ) fuel pick up tube ? when you cornering side to side ,but first see if it goes in limp mode or loose harness like Flash say .pull test sensor harness .

"occasionally stays for a long time"
If it's not the floppy sensor you mentioned,

My first guess is that it's a connector, but which sensor will cause limp mode, but not kill the engine is the question. I'm thinking Mprop, or???
Or, it sucks a nice gulp of air from the connectors at the fuel tank. I'd shut it off at one of those events and check for air. I'd guess that the primer on the filter head would be soft.

good luck!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

thanks for the responses.

the intake temp sensor element inside the mapsensor is the floppy sensor. This cant be normal... I'll change that i think.. going to remove some things to get to do a an wiring inspection near the ECM.

It has a factory lift pump that is tested and working so at least we can rule out air ingress. fuel rail pressure volts don't change with the running issue , same at set rpm in both situations.

I think you could have a lift pump and still have it suck air, but is definitely lower on the likelihood of things

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I have first hand experience of air in the lines, it is nothing like that.. I wonder if the acellerator pedal wiring/pedal could be the problem? It is strange it clears if i pedal off and re apply, if i leave the pedal down it doesnt clear the problem.. anyone had experience of accellerator pedal problems

FIXED- turned out to be a sticking brake pedal sensor/switch cuts power to stop riding the brake. it would stick as i broke before a turn and free sometime after..... seems to have cleared up after regular use since it was laid up a while.