Joining the family and need some advice!

ReelAggressive · **Joined:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 9:47 am **Posts:** 4

Hello All!
I am planning on joining the CRD family over the next few months. I just picked up a new contracting job that has me driving 400 miles round trip 2-3 a week so I need a new highway vehicle. My Duramax will be parked in the driveway and I will be downsizing. I have read that the CRD with modifications is ideal for my situation. Most of the articles I have read were written in 2010-2011 so I am sure a few things have changed since then. I live in FL so I have NO inspections to worry about so I am looking for the best upgrades for longevity and reliability.
I have my Duramax tuned with EFI Live and I have been reading that the best tune is a EcoTune on the CRD?
What's the problem with the timing belt? I just keep reading that it needs to be replaced.
What do you use for a EGR Delete?
Inter cooler hoses cracking. What brand do you recommend to replace with?
Fuel/Water separator allows air intrusion? Do you recommend a lift pump like airDog or Fass?
I will be towing a small boat down the highway regularly and I have read the torque converters are weak. I did a Suncoast in my Duramax is that what you all recommend?
I know I am new to the forum and I have used the search feature. A lot of discussion is in states with inspections so they don't apply to me.
Please excuse my ignorance and thank you for all the help!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:43 am

Read Sir Sam's NOOB guide

I have my Duramax tuned with EFI Live and I have been reading that the best tune is a EcoTune on the CRD? - Green Diesel EcoTune
What's the problem with the timing belt? I just keep reading that it needs to be replaced. - No "problem" just needs replacing every 6 years or 100,000 miles whichever comes first. A finicky DIY job with tools you can make/buy/rent or geordi does a good job and is in FL regulary
What do you use for a EGR Delete? - Unless you want to physically remove it the GDE tune effectively disables it.
Inter cooler hoses cracking. What brand do you recommend to replace with? - Samco or idParts
Fuel/Water separator allows air intrusion? Do you recommend a lift pump like airDog or Fass? - replace OEM gen 1 fuel filter head with gen 2 (blue heater plug on driver's side) fixes any leak there; if the 2 fuel supply line quick disconnects back by the tank let air in drop tank and replace them with a bit of marine grade diesel rated fuel line and worm clamps; multiple inline or in tank pump options if you wish.
I will be towing a small boat down the highway regularly and I have read the torque converters are weak. I did a Suncoast in my Duramax is that what you all recommend? - could be better but not so bad as to worry about a small boat; drive until you experience shudder at which point the TC needs to be replaced (I'd put in gen 2 OEM front pump if in that far); Suncoast is good or Euro from idparts.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:49 am

ReelAggressive wrote:

Hello All!
I have been reading that the best tune is a EcoTune on the CRD?
the GDE tunes are the best but there are other options. GDE also offers a transmission tune

What's the problem with the timing belt? I just keep reading that it needs to be replaced.
its made of rubber, gets old, and wears out. Change it every 100,000 mile
What do you use for a EGR Delete?
sasquatchmotorsports stage 1 and 2 kits are the most popular. But there are other ways of blocking or disabling the EGR valve
Inter cooler hoses cracking. What brand do you recommend to replace with?
Samco, Mishimoto, or IDparts
Fuel/Water separator allows air intrusion? Do you recommend a lift pump like airDog or Fass?
there is a mopar pump that will fit in the tank but there are other ways to do it. I use a Facet pump
I will be towing a small boat down the highway regularly and I have read the torque converters are weak. I did a Suncoast in my Duramax is that what you all recommend?
Suncoast is the best. There is also the mopar Euro and Hemi torque converters

Where in FL are you located?

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 11:54 am

Did you purchase a crd yet? That's where many of these guys can really help to make sure you start off with a decent crd. Some you need to run from. These puppies are 10 years old and many ran hard. The Eco tune instantly gained 2-3 mpg city driving only. I love it, drives way smoother and feels like boost is always there

I would do that mod first before anything outside the noob guide, which is worth the read (sticky post)

ReelAggressive · **Joined:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 9:47 am **Posts:** 4

Thank you for all the fast replies.
I have not purchased my CRD yet. I wanted to talk with you all about what i should look for and what I should expect to invest in modifications before I pulled the trigger.

I am in Sarasota but I work from Manatee all the way down to South Naples / Marco Island area.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:24 pm

ReelAggressive wrote:

I am in Sarasota but I work from Manatee all the way down to South Naples / Marco Island area.

Check this one out in New Smyrna
https://daytona.craigslist.org/ctd/5381865426.html

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 1:44 pm

Also depending on mileage and if the egr has been active for all the miles, chances are it will need rockers($350 and about 4 hours beyond the timing belt work) but I would suggest going that far to put arp studs in and since your in that far if rockers are original then why not

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Aside from a GDE tune your top priorities should be removing the EGR system and replacing the timing belt and water pump.

ReelAggressive · **Joined:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 9:47 am **Posts:** 4

flash7210 wrote:

ReelAggressive wrote:

I am in Sarasota but I work from Manatee all the way down to South Naples / Marco Island area.

Check this one out in New Smyrna
https://daytona.craigslist.org/ctd/5381865426.html

I already reached out to them. Thank you!

weeks101 wrote:

Aside from a GDE tune your top priorities should be removing the EGR system and replacing the timing belt and water pump.

The EGR System needs to be removed? I thought I read somewhere that the tuner disables it. Sorry for the ignorance

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

ReelAggressive wrote:

The EGR System needs to be removed? I thought I read somewhere that the tuner disables it. Sorry for the ignorance

No apology necessary. Our product is a physical delete of the EGR system. The GDE product is a re-calibration of the engine computer's logic.

While it's true the GDE tune changes the operation of the EGR system, it does not fully delete it.

Our bolt-in kit fully and physically deletes all components of the EGR system from the vehicle (EGR valve, EGR flow control valve, EGR cooler, EGR manifold, EGR coolant lines, EGR tubes) and also replaces the poorly-flowing factory intake elbow with a larger-diameter, higher-flowing unit which is designed for easy removal and re-installation, specifically to reduce the time it takes to replace glow plugs. By deleting the entire system, you remove the coolant lines that commonly leak coolant, as well as the EGR tubes, which are known to leak boost. It's also common for the EGR cooler to leak internally into the EGR system, meaning you will lose coolant into the exhaust system, causing white smoke out the tailpipe and, obviously, a loss of coolant over time.

Weeks Kit Stage 1 – bypasses EGR valve, fully deletes FCV, increased flow over stock elbow, facilitates easier glow plug changes.
Weeks Kit Stage 2 – fully deletes EGR valve, EGR cooler, EGR manifold, EGR coolant lines, and exhaust-side EGR tube.

ReelAggressive · **Joined:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 9:47 am **Posts:** 4

so is it best to do Stage 2? or 1 and 2?

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

ReelAggressive wrote:

so is it best to do Stage 2? or 1 and 2?

Best is a relative term, depends to what you want to do. Most customers go with the Stage 1 and Stage 2 combo. (The Stage 1 is required for the Stage 2).

We offer the Stage 1 as a stand-alone because 1) the stage 2 installation is a bit more involved; 2) some people only care about bypassing the EGR system, removing the restrictive intake elbow and flow control valve and gaining better access to the glow plugs, while leaving some of the components attached to the engine (see the image in my previous post for clarification).

Weeks Kit Stage 1 – bypasses EGR valve, fully deletes FCV, increased flow over stock elbow, facilitates easier glow plug changes.
Weeks Kit Stage 2 – this add-on fully deletes EGR valve, EGR cooler, EGR manifold, EGR coolant lines, and exhaust-side EGR tube.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:00 pm

Yeah, stage 1 and 2 is the way to go. Removes several potential coolant and exhaust leaks, and get a bunch of crap out of the way for other repairs.

I'd advise you check out some of the CRD's out there that Lost members are selling. You can fairly often find one that already has the ARP's and other major items for cheap in my opinion. There was one around $8k recently. Might still be in the for sale section (not one of mine lol) :2cents:

Joining the family and need some advice!

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