Boost hose is blowing off

tomasnc · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:52 am

I had my boost hose blow off at the point where the Sasquatch EGR delete adapter bolts up. I thought this was due to the clamp not being as tight as it should I re-installed and drove a 1/4 mile and it popped off again?

Any ideas? The engine sounds fine.

Thanks,

Tom

tomasnc · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:29 am

Photos of the problem

What I didn't do on the first repair was wipe all of the oily mess from the connection. I used acetone and cleaned the pipe and hose and tightened the snot out of it.

I have not checked any codes. My CEL is on due to glow plugs.

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:39 am

This has happened to me several times.

Which clamps are you using? The factory clamps or the T bolt clamps that came with the kit?
The T bolt clamps hold better but you have to really tighten the heck outta them.

tomasnc · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:30 am

Flash, the clamps that sasquatch provides. The oily mess may have hurt the holding power too.

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mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:48 pm

I believe the drivers side hose has two different sized clamps, make sure you have them oriented on the correct end of the hose.

I have never had the drivers side hose come off on me, I've only ever seen the passenger side come off and it was right after I had reinstalled it.

Silverbullet · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:59 pm

Mine came off due to not having them tight enough also, They need to be really tight

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 6:27 pm

My Jeep hoses have never blown off. Got t-bolt clamps on silicone hoses.

If all else fails, glue them on!!!
Had problem on my Dodge Cummins with 40 psi+ boost blowing hose off. Ended up putting high tack glue on the contact surface where the hose and metal are clamped. Since I glued them, they have never blow off again. Before the gluing, I was blowing one off every time I got on it hard.... :wink:

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Oil residue can cause it to pop off, and make it more difficult to get a good seal. Please try this:

1 - Fully remove the elbow, coupler and clamps. You can leave the adapter installed on the manifold.
2 - Wash all components in warm, soapy water to remove ALL oil residue.
3 - With the manifold adapter still installed, use a damp rag with soapy water to remove all oil residue. Let everything dry thoroughly.
4 - Optional: spray the inside of the coupler with hairspray (it works wonders!)
5 - Reinstall before the hairspray gets too tacky. The clamps are two different sizes. Make sure the 2.75" one is on the elbow and the 2.5" one is on the manifold adapter.
6 - Make absolutely sure the stubby adapter is "seated" in the elbow. The two parts are designed to fit very snugly together, with the stubby adapter actually fitting inside the elbow about 1/8" to 1/4". Important: make sure neither of the clamps is directly on top of the bead-rolled edges. The clamps need to be seated immediately adjacent to to the bead rolled edges, not on top of them.
7 - I also advise tightening the clamp on the elbow first, then installing the clamp on the stubby adapter.

tomasnc · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:04 pm

I like the glue on idea too.

I have 10,000 miles on the EGR delete. I can't remember what type of clamp sasquatch provides. Wiping the surfaces down with acetone seems to have worked? What is the operating p.s.i. for our engines?

I had a cracked CAC and thought the epoxy repair had held... upon inspection this morning I see I have developed another leak.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:18 pm

tomasnc wrote:

I like the glue on idea too.

I have 10,000 miles on the EGR delete. I can't remember what type of clamp sasquatch provides. Wiping the surfaces down with acetone seems to have worked? What is the operating p.s.i. for our engines?

I had a cracked CAC and thought the epoxy repair had held... upon inspection this morning I see I have developed another leak.

You cracked a samco?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:25 pm

Maximum turbo boost is 20-23 psi depending on your ECM tune.

tomasnc · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:31 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

tomasnc wrote:

I like the glue on idea too.

I have 10,000 miles on the EGR delete. I can't remember what type of clamp sasquatch provides. Wiping the surfaces down with acetone seems to have worked? What is the operating p.s.i. for our engines?

I had a cracked CAC and thought the epoxy repair had held... upon inspection this morning I see I have developed another leak.

You cracked a samco?

No on the SAMCO's. They are OK. The Charge Air Cooler is prone to crack on the hot-side or passenger side. The radiator shop cleaned the cooler and applied some sort of epoxy coating that was supposed to seal the leak.

Thanks Flash !!!

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:40 pm

Ah ok. I was gonna say wow, never heard of a samco failure yet

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:00 pm

X2 on the hair spray. I use it on all boost hose connections.

Boost hose is blowing off

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