HI, first post after a ton of reading. Bought this site unseen, $3000 Can or $12 US... 06 crd limited 220000km, was to be traded in and a couple wobbly pops later I owned my first diesel. I woke up and thought... anyway the drive home in the am revealed a whine from the rear diff and a growl from the front. One wheel bearing/hub and a rear diff rebuild later its fun to drive.

What did I get into? Aftermarket remote starter was inop, unplugged it and jeep would not start, skim key bypass needs to be plugged in and all is well until I decide to swap the aftermarket cd player for a bluetooth unit and get a no bus message.... at this point I know her as the f@wkin jerp...I removed the steering wheel control interface from the old stereo (wired to bus system) and back to good. I let it sit outside overnight, -5c up in frigid northwest Alberta, no glow plug light in Am. I talked to previous owner and they owned it for two years, never saw the little yellow pigtail light up, just plugged it in. I unplugged the glowplug relay/module behind the battery, it wasn't seated, cleaned contacts now I have a glow plug light to look forward to in the am!
I have little detail on the history of this unit, I did remove the top 3 7mm bolts from the timing belt, belt appears in good shape, has typical oil staining turbo hoses, any advice? she runs strong, no smoke...so far. The tire pressure light is lit, guessing the sensors were not moved to the new wheels, no other mil.

Darren

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal there for a runner. You can't tell the condition of the belt by looking at it because all the work is done inside the belt by the tension members. Unless it's pristine with no wear to the manufacturer logo and part number I'd treat it as though it's been on there for 160,000km. Oil soaked CAC hoses are par for the course. Mine have been soaked for 10 years but are still pretty solid. I don't think it's too much of an issue but many like to replace them with the pretty coloured ones.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

You need to verify if/when the timing belt was changed. When mine went the outside looked almost perfect, but on the inside the teeth were so worn that you could almost see light through the valleys of the teeth. My belt didnt actually break, it shore the teeth off because all the rubber was worn off around the teeth!

From there these things require tedious maintenance to keep up, but i think its more of a "liberty" thing than it is a diesel thing. Even so if you want to get your engine where it *should* of been in the first place, plan on dropping about $4-$5k into it. Doesnt have to be at once but some stuff should be done "while your this far". After that youll have an engine that just needs fluid/filter changes and glow plugs, while all the other maintenance will be just general liberty maintenance.

If it sounds like i despise my crd, i dont. I love it i just want people to know what it takes owning one of these.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

Welcome to the addiction; a couple bits of friendly advice: Timing belt; if you do not know the history of when it was last changed, plan on changing it ASAP and the sooner the better. It is simply just not worth the risk and damage that can incur if the belt or one of the pulleys fails!!! There is lots of How To's on this forum...

Secondly, get rid of the EGR if it is still in service, it does nothing but cause problems and slow death for the engine. Temporary you can unplug the MAF (mass air flow) sensor on the air box till you can completely remove the EGR & FCV valve using the Weeks kit or just simply block off the EGR feed tube. Again, there is lots of information on this forum on the How To's... A computer reflash will get rid of the DTC light when the EGR is removed! Free one's available on this form along with instructions on how to perform.
LInk: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Thanks for the welcome, the glow plug light was on for about five seconds at -6c (21 f), fired up great. I am about to look at the egr block off, can I just fab a plate to block it? Crank case vent will go to atmosphere with some sort of catch pail to keep the driveway clean.
I will inspect the belt closer, is the oem one mopar or vm? What brands are recomeded for a kit? hopefully available in Canada.

I read the noob guide, as well as countless pages lol

Darren

original belt is goodyear brand, we buy this kit from ID parts (US) or from Europe. parts in CANADA are dealer only , if you are good with tools you can do it and save money well needed for maintenance and GDE tune

You can certainly do a block off plate, of you can do week101 stage 1 and 2 kits. I ran a block off for about 20k miles before I did the weeks.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Do not vent the crankcase vent to atmosphere especially in colder locations as the vent can freeze and cause seal leakage. Install a ProVent if you want to filter out the oil and keep it from getting into the intake duct hose. The oil rots out the intake hose, but does not hurt the engine as long as the EGR is removed or blocked off. I installed a Provent since I did not want the possibility of the oil accumulating in the bottom of the CAC (charge air cooler). The crankcase ventaltion system needs a slight vacuum in order to function properly. Read this post to learn all about the whys... http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491&hilit Kinda long but very informative!

As to the block off, it can be blocked off on the exhaust manifold end or the other end where it attaches to the EGR valve, either will work just fine.
Dimensions for block off plate at valve end: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit
The Weeks (SasquatchParts.com) EGR/FCV delete kit comes with a block off plug for the exhaust end I believe, I think he also sales the plug kit separately, check with Weeks for prices... https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Wow thanks for the quick replies!

Now I to get my fat farmer hands to the egr tube..
I snapped a couple pics and it doesn't appear to be a lot of oil in the intercooler hose off the passenger side, timing belt numbers are worn but the teeth appear to be seating deep into the gear and the pattern on the load side of teeth is consistent....I would expect more wear for 222000 km but I am no expert.




I have the tools and the time, I am a field service tech .

Darren

looks like original belt so i say you need to take it apart and don't forget ,, rockers ,, you should check them

Seconded - ID do a pretty fair shipping deal for us. Just a shame the CA$ sucks.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

I have the crossover tube blinded off at the egr valve, no leaks, just a little awkward to get to. I had a good look at the tb and so did a bud (he is hd diesel red seal tech)... he agrees the belt looks ok but wouldn't comment further as he has not worked on a crd. Am I missing something or could I just remove guard and fan to access tb?

Most will reccomend replacing the water pump along with the timing belt which will make things a little bit more complicated.

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U.S. Army Retired

I guess I should say that it will never see a lot of mileage as I have a work pickup as a daily and a supercharged gm 6.0 in the driveway. if I own it for 5 years it will probably not see 20000 km

Darren

Looking at the timing belt while on the motor will not access its true condition; age and miles are the only real parameters to which to judge a belts condition while still on the motor!!! Once removed from the motor, on close visual inspection by bending the belt open backwards one can see the cracks in the rubber, but this alone still does not tell you how brittle the rubber teeth have become or its true condition.
Most recommend the Gates belt when replacing if not using an OEM Mopar belt. I believe a Goodyear belt was what came on mine OEM when I replaced it with the Gates belt?
ID parts sells a very nice kit to replace the belt, water pump, and all pulleys as needed which includes the Gates belt!!!
Running with an unknown age and / or miles belt is simply not worth the risk of what catastrophic damage can occur if it fails.... Most on here agree, six years or 100,000 miles is the limits of belt reliability...

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

ugg... 650$ Canadian for the kit with shipping, anyone have a belt number?

edit, found it.

Yeah, it's not a cheap vehicle to look after. You should also ckeck the running temperature as the thermostats on these tend to fail open leaving you running cold. Wait 'til you see the price of a replacement and many of the guys round here don't bat an eyelid at dropping $500 on an aftermarket housing

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Well fail open is better than the other option, I have put a 200km on it, temp gauge stays 1/4-1/3 of scale. With a bit of remorse I am going to pull the shroud, fan, cover.. loosen the tensioner and get an idea how deep I have to go.

This forum rocks! Thanks guys!

Darren

If your temp gauge is 1/4-1/3 than your thermostat has or is failing.

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

Could you explain your reasoning, it warms and temp gauge cycles 1/4-1/3 and holds, I have a ray tech and can shoot temps, no coolant loss, cabin heat is good...