CP3 Pump Removal

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:23 pm

Has anyone had trouble removing their high pressure fuel pump from the engine? I am working on disassembling the engine to completely rebuild the engine after dropping a valve, but I am having trouble removing the pump from the engine bracket. I removed all the bolts, but the aluminum collar that slides into the bracket appears to be seized to the bracket. Anyone have any experience or any ideas on how to remove it?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:29 pm

the sprocket is pressed on, and requires a puller. I use the miller tool, but I think others have used a different type. Last one I did took a ton of force before the sprocket popped off with a bang. They aren't coming off without a puller...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:30 pm

but, for an engine rebuild, why do you want to take the pump out of the mount? I just leave them on, and pull the entire mount out and it's all ready to go back in later.

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:38 pm

Sorry I should have specified but I was able to get the sprocket off the pump but not the actual pump itself separated from the bracket. I was trying to get the whole bracket off but the bolt behind wedged in behind the pump was starting to round off with just a wrench and I didn't want to risk damaging it any further. I was trying to get the pump off so I could get a socket on the bolt to remove the bracket.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:48 pm

it's been a while, but I'm guessing you're missing a bolt, should come out easy. I tap a 1/2" wrench on that bolt, as then wack it with a hammer or link another box wrench and yank quickly. The 1/2" fits a hair tighter than the 13mm I think, or the old craftsmen wrench I have does anyhow.

I'll go look at the one I removed from the mount and see what holds it in there, brb

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:53 pm

ok, I think it's just 3 13mm nuts spaced evenly and triangularly. You have those 3 out and pried on it real lightly?

I'll look further for the one I have that's actually removed from the mount.

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:56 pm

I'm not at the vehicle currently but I do believe I have all three removed. I tried pulling on the pump from the back side, pried lightly, and even tapped on the front side to knock out and have gotten nowhere. I don't want to destroy the pump since it works fine and is a fairly expensive part I have found.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:14 pm

I've removed 3 of them recently, and you are correct in the procedure and the reason for it - the bottom bolt into the block is a sumunabitch to get out without removing the pump.

If you have the pulley off the pump and the three bolts behind removed... Then all you are missing is brute force.

I have put the nut back on the front of the pump and just threaded it flush with the stem... And then went at it with a dead-blow hammer. It will take a fair bit of whacking, but it *will* come out. OR if you have a really really large three-jaw puller, you might be able to get some grip with the jaws on the bracket and use the center to push on the shaft. But I don't see how that will work easier than just the application of force on the pump shaft. It can take it, but don't go crazy.

When I put them back in, the brackets will be getting a wire wheel cleaning first and then some anti-seize paste. Of course, that will mean they will never need to come apart again... Which is exactly my goal.

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:27 pm

Awesome thanks! I'll give that a try tonight when I get home and report back with my findings.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:27 pm

Looks like just those three. I have the sprocket off of one, and I can see those 3 bolts which go all the way through to the other side, laying flush. I'd look up some images, but I'm pretty sure you need to press it out of the mount. A dead blow, or rubber mallet might do the trick. If you don't have that, a regular hammer with a block of wood in between might work.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:29 pm

Geordi beat me to it! You might shoot a little PB Blaster in there also before beating on it.

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 6:55 pm

Well I have pounded, pried, and pounded some more and looks like I'll be needing a new/used pump now....First I tried pounding with the nut threaded flush with a piece of wood in between and split a couple pieces of wood. Then I tried to pound just on the nut and managed to get the nut to bind on the threads therefore making it pretty difficult to remove without holding on with vise grips. I tried to pry the pump on from the back side with no luck. I also tried pounded on the aluminum collar around the bracket with no luck except for making some grooves in the aluminum. It appears the aluminum collar and bracket have somehow bonded together. I ended by pounding on just the threaded end until it had flattened the end so much I now cannot get the nut to start on the threads.

Any ideas of how to get the last bolt holding the bracket to the block thats wedged in between the pump and bracket? I might as well at least try to get the unit off as a whole to work on at my bench so I can send the block off to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:19 pm

Hmm, if the 1/2" doesn't work, then just send the whole thing to the machine shop, and they will press it out and repair the threads. I doubt you'll need a new pump. Maybe $20-$30 in labor for them to fix the pump though.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:09 pm

connolcj wrote:

Well I have pounded, pried, and pounded some more and looks like I'll be needing a new/used pump now....First I tried pounding with the nut threaded flush with a piece of wood in between and split a couple pieces of wood. Then I tried to pound just on the nut and managed to get the nut to bind on the threads therefore making it pretty difficult to remove without holding on with vise grips. I tried to pry the pump on from the back side with no luck. I also tried pounded on the aluminum collar around the bracket with no luck except for making some grooves in the aluminum. It appears the aluminum collar and bracket have somehow bonded together. I ended by pounding on just the threaded end until it had flattened the end so much I now cannot get the nut to start on the threads.

Any ideas of how to get the last bolt holding the bracket to the block thats wedged in between the pump and bracket? I might as well at least try to get the unit off as a whole to work on at my bench so I can send the block off to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected.

I can't remember exactly what we did, but it involved grinding down a box end wrench thin enough to make it fit between the pump and the bolt head to get that last bolt. We ran into the same issue as you, and decided not to go any further removing the pump. Just took the whole assembly off the engine as one.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:32 pm

Getting the whole assembly off the engine is what starts this process. SUCH a dumb design, there isn't that much force on this stupid bracket to require this many hold-downs and their locations! FFS, they are acting like the rotational force on the pump is actually the 22,000 PSI that the pump generates.

I have one that will be rebuilt shortly, and I am strongly considering not installing that bottom bolt. I don't know... Maybe I will, but jeez... :banghead:

Connolcj: If the engine is already out and accessible so you can take full swings at the pump, just hit it harder. You probably are already there. I'm surprised that you did that much damage with a dead-blow, mine are all plastic and took the damage rather than hurting the pump stem. You can always get a tap and die set yourself and re-die the pump threads. Since the pulley is keyed and tapered, the nut actually doesn't need to have 3,000 lbs of torque to keep the pulley on and locked. You don't need a new pump yet, this one is fixable. First, just get it out of that stupid bracket.

Maybe a better way would be (since the top of the threads is already damaged) taking a large socket that fits over the stem and press-fitting that with a rag to hold it in place (wrap rag around threads and top of stem, then shove socket over it) and then you can bludgeon the socket with a sledge? You won't do any more damage to the threads, and a 6 lb sledge is a very persuasive argument. Sorry yours is giving you this much argument.

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:33 pm

guy, pounding with hammer? is it necessary ? this engine and components are so expensive and the is no room to brake stuff , you can not go to a local scrap yard and find parts just like that. not easy . guys I'm trying to say its easy to brake it . example i needed to replace coolant temp sender on my jetta today , but the wire harness connector refuses to come a part . so i went back to my house , to rethink my ideas so after some stressful time i finished the job . that means every job needs to be taken properly and if something doesn't work use your common sense & don't rush , take time and at the end it will work. trust me some time it is better to leave it for next day project.

dhenderz · **Joined:** Fri Dec 11, 2015 9:26 am **Posts:** 164

I feel your pain. I worked for over an hour to get mine out. And yes you are correct the nose of the pump becomes one with the bracket - almost like a press fit. In my case I found the best method was to get in behind the pump with a crow bar and pry between the pump and the bracket - moving it ever so slightly (like thousandths of an inch) back and forth to 'walk' the nose of the pump out of the bracket. Do be careful to not break the bracket because it really isn't that strong. But honestly the bracket is easy to find on ebay - and cheap - at least compared to the CP3. I am afraid you will be sorry you destroyed the threads on the pump shaft. The CP3 is really really expensive, even used.

That said, I happen to have a used one that works fine. 130k miles when I pulled it to replace it with a new one mistakenly thinking the pump was the cause of my no start. Happy to sell it.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:52 pm

I managed to take out all the bolts easily, but pump was stuck in the bracket... I ended up destroying it by grinding the collar with a dremel, since I had a new replacement and this was the purpose to take out the old one. But to reuse it, I'd probably try a wire brush on the dremel or just shave a little bit off of the collar and then use some pb blaster. If you could possibly push the pump harder, it will come out, it's not "very" stuck, it's just a bad position to push it. What holds it stuck is a bit of corrosion between the aluminum parts (bracket and collar), so if you manage to remove the corrosion you'll have no issue removing it. You can also try some phosphoric acid on the collar, to clean all the oxidation, prior to use some pb blaster.

connolcj · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2016 8:32 am

Alright thanks for the ideas, I'll try and come up with a large socket to slide over the threads on to the collar itself and give it a few whacks. If that doesn't work I guess I can try and get some acid to clean the surface of any corrosion and see if that helps.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2016 11:27 am

I'd try to remove the stubborn bolt so you can get a shop press on it before I beat on it anymore. Maybe some PB blaster will help. If that bolt is really rounded off, I take a cheap, narrow 12mm, and take just enough off of it, until I could pound the open end onto the bolt firmly. Then, tap that with a hammer. It's all about the impact to knock that bolt loose. If you try to pull on it slowly, it want's to fail.

CP3 Pump Removal

Who is online