thermorex - no offense taken.

The CRD cooling system is weird when it comes to draining and refill. My best guess, since it's consistent across the manuals, is capacity is 12.5L and that's 13.2qts but DCJ botched the conversion in several places. Adding to the issue is even with the vehicle nose pointed downhill most reports that I've seen indicate it's difficult to get more than ca. 10.5 qts out of the system. In that case ideally one would use one of those Prestone kits to flush the system with tap water (NOTE there is no "valve" on the heater core so it will flush with the heat off); drain the system leaving only residual clean water; refill first with the amount of HOAT coolant you need (6.5 qts is close enough for 50/50) then top off with demineralized water.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Something to ponder about flushing... There have been several CRDs that have had goop in the cooling system, either intentionally introduced (sealers in a bottle do NOT work!) or mismanagement of the coolant used that creates jello or cottage cheese from the magic of chemistry.

While the heater core is always open to the water flow, if the core has been filled with muck... That will NOT come out without some more vigorous efforts. The two coolant lines to the core are easily accessed right behind the thermostat area, Unhook both hoses from the metal hoses that aim back toward the firewall, and connect a garden hose to one side. I find it easiest to use some 1" ID clear nylon / vinyl tubing from Home Depot, with a garden hose connection on one end and just a hose clamp on the other. HAVE A BALL VALVE CONTROL! You don't want to overpressure the system if you have to push out large amounts of sludge. Start slowly, and increase the flow until you get nothing but clean water out.

I prefer to access the cooling system like that, flushing each major component individually (core, radiator, engine) and then draining and starting over with the fresh coolant. While it would be preferable to get every drop of tap water out, unless your water is from Flint Michigan... Chances are, the tiny amount of minerals in there are nothing to be concerned about when filling fresh.

Thanks for posting. Have you noticed a bunch of sludge coming out of the core when you do this? I should add this to my procedure, as I have a heck of a time ridding all the gunk out of a thoroughly slimed engine.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Readers might be interested in this old post (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56486&hilit=citric) by Squeeto

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs