This morning I went out to start up my 2005 liberty crd to go to work. When turning over the key there was only a click, this happened twice then it started as normal. (This has also happened in the past) about a half mile down the road I lost ALL power. The Jeep would not accelerate up hills, from stops or at all. I limped it the rest of the way to work and parked it. I got out and immediately checked my boost hoses thinking for sure one must've came apart but found nothing wrong. It sat for about 9 hours till I got off and when I went to start it it clicked on the first turn then started right up on the second then drove around with no problems the rest of the day.
Things I've done on it since I've owned it these last 2k miles:
•Timing belt/idler pulleys
•Fuel filter
•Cleaned map sensor
•Oil and oil filter
•Fan clutch (mild over heating problem)

Things I did the weekend prior:
•Thermostat (before mentioned overheating problem)
•Air filter washed and retreated
•Drained and flushed radiator (previous owner used autozone 50/50 mix so I replaced with Napa HOAT this is where I think the overheating is coming from due to clogged radiator)

Things to know:
•Sometimes "clunks" when going into second
•Was not overheating when went into limp mode
•Ambient temp 100°F
•no check engine light

If you have any ideas of what the problem could be or where to start it would be much appreciated! I just got a new job as a lube truck k driver and can not mess this up! Thank you!

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1] From your description, you have a K&N filter. It is strongly advised to go back to a paper filter. The K&N is fine for gassers, but allows too much through for a turbodiesel.

2] Simple start: make sure it isn't your transmission going into limp mode due to bad grounds.

3] Do you have a code reader? A simple one is $50-ish dollars, IIRC.

4] When was the fuel filter changed last?

5] Flush that cooling system well!

Start there, and let us know what codes you're seeing.

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

start by having the battery tested

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U.S. Army Retired

And clean the terminals on the battery. Starter solenoid or relay could cause it to click too.

You may have a short in the wiring harness causing the stall......check the other threads as it's covered before.

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2005 Sport CRD 130k
Yeti's Stage II DIY Hot Tune
Weeks stage 1&2 EGR Delete
Florida HD billet TC [500+flbs torque]
DIY T'stat Mod {Kap's design}
'03 Ram TCM

Thank you everyone for your replies. Sorry for the late response but here's the update.

I replaced the air filter with a standard paper filter and had the battery and alternator tested and passed with no problems. Also the battery terminals are clean and the fuel filter was replaced a 1000 miles ago.

The next morning the vehicle would turn over but not start at all. I got a code reader and pulled code p0039. (large fuel leak I believe is what it said) after researching into it here on lost and seeing possible solutions I only freaked out a little then decided to try and bleed my fuel line. There was a lot of air in the lines and once I got it all out it ran great for about another week and wouldn't start this morning.

What are some ways fuel can get in the air line and would this be a possible cause that put it into limp mode?

As for the overheating problems I've flushed the system two times once when I did the timing belt then about 500 miles after when I did the thermostat. Today I pulled my radiator and will be taking it to a shop to have it taken apart and cleaned out for 100$. My questions for guys are how can you tell if your water pump is pushing water and if not the radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, or coolant are there any cheaper fixes other than the water pump that I can try first?

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Nothing is cheap on this thing, really depends on you how much you want to spend on it. necessary upgrades are endless on this unit , so priorities are : lift pump , GDE tune , 100, 000 mile service TB WP ROCKERS , head removal ,inspections , etc , i did not see anybody having luck with short cuts repairs on this think , so if you like it and keep in it start with lift pump , and again remember list is long .good luck .

The fuel filter head has a heater in it. The heater overheats, melts the socket, and allows air into the fuel system.
Replace the fuel filter assembly with the updates version and wiring kit.

To test flow from water pump you can either:
1. attach clear hose from the small elbow on the thermostat to the top of the coolant tank, then start the engine and watch the flow
Or
2. just disconnect the line at the top of the coolant tank and let it flow into a bucket

After you get your radiator back from the shop, be sure to use Zerex G-05 (HOAT) coolant, 50/50 mix with distilled water.

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U.S. Army Retired

I just looked at the plug for the fuel heater and there was no sign of melting but the socket was wet with diesel.

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Where would you recommend getting the lift pump from?

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https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... 5143160aa/

Don't forget the harness

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.

That is the source of your air in fuel problem.
A proper replacement can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468066298&sr=8-1&keywords=liberty+crd+fuel+filter

As far as lift pump goes, the in tank version is probably the best but there are a dozen ways of accomplishing the same goal.
Some use a Kennedy pump. I use a Facet pump.

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U.S. Army Retired

Till you can get that new filter head assembly installed:
Unplug the heater connection then clean out the connection port in your current filter head real good with some spray brake or carb cleaner, dry it out good and then pack it or fill it completely with some silicone rubber gasket sealer (available at parts stores). Let it dry or cure for a few hours and it will stop any air inleakage temporarily at this location till you replace with a new head.
You can operate without the fuel heater this time of year!

ID Parts also carry the new filter head kit and they help support our little Jeep CRD community...
http://www.idparts.com/updated-fuel-filter-head-liberty-crd-p-4723.html

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

The new filter head comes with a new filter and WIF sensor installed and REQUIRES a new wiring harness which idParts supplies but I don't see that the Ebay site does. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84802&p=893682&hilit=filter#p893682 for install how to.

FYI I've never been convinced an in tank or in line lift pump is needed. The CP3 pump on the front of the motor is perfectly capable of delivering fuel to the engine PROVIDED there are no air leaks between the pump and the tank. FYI fuel pumps were common on engines for decades. On the CRD the fuel lines are solid between the tank and the CP3 except for the fuel filter head, which you are replacing, and the 2 quick disconnect fittings on the supply line back by the fuel tank. Those fittings were designed for the gasser KJ which has an in tank fuel pump hence the gasser fittings are holding fuel that's under pressure inside the lines vs the diesel where that fuel is not under pressure. Hence in the latter case it is possible to suck air into the lines past the quick disconnect fittings. As noted in the linked post IMHO simply eliminating those fittings with 2 short bits of fuel line and 4 clamps will solve the "rest" of the air in fuel problem. Of course this means dropping the tank.

Neither I nor my son have replaced the quick disconnects for the simple reason that upgrading the fuel filter head solved both are air in the fuel line problems.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you everyone for your replies they have helped a ton!

After replacing the fuel head with the ID parts upgraded version my air in fuel problem has gone away completely! As for the overheating problem I'm still having some issues. So far I have replaced the fan clutch, thermostat and the radiator. The shop I had originally taken the radiator to said it was 85% clogged and I thought I had finally found my source for overheating. Upon unclogging it they found a leak in the fins and fixed it. After putting the radiator back in the fixed area started leaking again so I took it back out and down to them. They "fixed" it again and upon getting it smogged it started spewing fluid all over the smog shop. I bit the bullet and bought a new radiator and installed it a couple days after. The Jeep unfortunately is still overheating. I bought a block test kit from Napa and the test are showing no indications of a leak coming from the head. So my question to you is, what else can I do?

The condition of which it is overheating is on steep grades more than a half mile with the ambient temperature over 110° F. When the gage reaches 3/4 I'm able to shut off my a/c, turn on the heat while driving and it goes down to normal in about 2 mins.

Any help will be much appreciated! Thank you!

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How are you checking coolant temp? Are you just going by the gauge?
If so, it could be a gauge calibration problem.
If you can get a IR temp gun, drive it to the point where it seems to be overheating then stop, pop the hood, and get a temp reading from the top of the thermostat. This way you will know exactly what coolant temp is.

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U.S. Army Retired

I purchased an IR heat gun from harbour freight and have shot temps at idle the make sure my radiator and thermostat we're doing their jobs at cooling down fluids which they are so far (180 upper radiator hose, 140 lower) but haven't checked it at an overheating temp. What temp would be considered an overheating level and am I right to take the temp from the thermostat?

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I'd say that over 230 is over heating.
Under 225 is safe.

Is your coolant boiling with steam pouring out of the tank?

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U.S. Army Retired

No not even when it gets in the red. There's no smell of coolant or anything.

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