Has any one done or read about upgrading the front brakes on a KJ. Warped second set of rotors in 6 months. Chrysler 300 have larger diameter rotors with same stud pattern and on the 4wd hubs look similar. Any info? thanks I am running 18" wheels so clearances should not be an issue.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Cant use a larger diameter or you wont be able to get the caliper on


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06 KJ sport 926/948s Mopar/Boiler Skids, trimmed front bumper with detours backbone, (in possession of or soon: custom RL Super skink sliders (tommudd) and JBA upper Arms)

I don't mean just the rotor? I have installed 6 pot callipers and larger rotors for a few custom made cars in the past but spending that sort of money is out of the question. Pulling parts from a salvaged 300 or other variant might make sense.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

If you warped two sets in 6 months then you are either buying cheap crap parts or standing on the brakes all of the time
What you are wanting to do most likely can't be done or it would of been by now

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Thanks for the input. The last set made by EBC dimple drilled and slotted. I had a fault with the brake booster that was causing brake pressure on long runs, and I think caused them to over heat. Asking the original question before ordering replacements.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

I would start by doing a full rebuild of your stock calipers and see if there are sticking pistons or guide pins. That would be the most likely culprit of overheated brakes, that is, if you are not constantly on them or are regularly towing heavy loads/in a hilly area.

Other than that, if you do the conversion to a set from a 300 AWD, I'd love to see it. I suspect that you will have brake proportioning/balance issues though.


He can build an adapter easily, it's a very common way to install a non-OEM caliper.


I'd say the easiest upgrade is to rebuild your calipers, ditch the dimpled rotors and get good quality white box rotors and a set of good semi-metallic or ceramic pads and call it a day. Dimpled/slotted rotors are unlikely to offer the braking advantages that I think you might be looking for. The dimples are there to relieve gas pressure build-up between pad and rotor during extended braking at high speeds or if you are towing. Even if you do either of those, you still need your calipers to be working properly to not end up with warped rotors.

Don't forget you also lose all of those dimpled and slotted areas as a friction surface.

There are trade offs to both. Summary: check proper caliper and other functions before throwing money at it without knowing what the actual problem is.

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Thanks for the input, Today removed the old rotors and fitted standard EBC without the slots and dimples. With the callipers off I pumped out the piston and pressed it back in several times to make sure they moved freely, but with the new rotors and pads with the piston pressed in further than before it jammed in the bore. I had the same problem before on the rear, the plastic or what ever they are made of must have swelled up on the end causing them to stick. I used crown callipers on the rear because they are the only ones I could find with metal pistons with the hope of this problem not returning. I have searched earlier to see whats available for the front.
Also only a few months ago replaced the calliper pins, greased them well, but the pin with that black rubber sleeve was just about seized and has caused the inner pad and rotor to ware. This time I have removed the sleeve to see if it improves drag. Prices for complete front callipers are pricy this side so I am going with a rebuild kit with new pistons. Also replacing the 2 hoses this time, with that the only parts on the this brake system not replaced are the hard lines. I do tow a heavy trailer. This is my fifth Jeep and with all 5 have had brake issues with them hence the original post.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

And this is why you are having brake issues.

Sure some Jeeps can tow decent weights but are not designed to do it often.

Any regular towing over 2000lbs you should buy a pickup designed for towing,at least a 1/2 ton range(no ranger or Colorado sized).

If you look at the newer F150 brakes you will see they are bigger,and thicker, then a F350's brakes made 15 years ago and over twice the size as any Jeeps.

Then you need to factor in you have a 6 speed behind the CRD which can not even handle the torque output of that engine.

yes starting to regret selling my Nissan Navarra 1 ton pickup I think known as Frontier your side. I put a lot of cash into this Jeep but tempted to part with it for a 3.0 Nissan Patrol or an older 4.2 .

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

It's funny you say that. I have 33,000 miles on my 2014 F150 so I check the brakes the other day and the pads still had more meat on them than most brand new pads I have ever seen. It made me lol.

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