2006 CRD, odd noises (video)

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Sep 09, 2016 8:34 am

Yeah, could've told you (had I been here sooner) that those Grade 8 bolts were from the flex plate.

Sorry man, could've been any of us.

Best of luck!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:11 am

Quote:

I really don't want to drop the trans out if I don't have too. From the looks of it, just these four bolts are the root cause. They've backed out enough to run into the

The question question is, what do the threads look like in the TC?
In any case, use new bolts and put blue locktite on them.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

I really don't want to drop the trans out if I don't have too. From the looks of it, just these four bolts are the root cause. They've backed out enough to run into the

The question question is, what do the threads look like in the TC?
In any case, use new bolts and put blue locktite on them.

Just blue? If this was a clutch, I'd lather everything in red.

I'm worried the plate is cracked, but it does just look like the bolts backed out.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

Didn't catch the problem quick enough. The flexplate is all gouged up, and bolt holes look to be oveled out.

Ordering replacements. Trans has to come out.

Anything else I should replace while it's out?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 09, 2016 2:12 pm

Monomer wrote:

Didn't catch the problem quick enough. The flexplate is all gouged up, and bolt holes look to be oveled out.

Ordering replacements. Trans has to come out.

Anything else I should replace while it's out?

Rear main seal, if it's leaking.

And if the budget allows for it...

Torque converter. A few here have had good luck using the Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi TC. Can be found for around $150.
And transmission pump.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

flash7210 wrote:

Rear main seal, if it's leaking.

And if the budget allows for it...

Torque converter. A few here have had good luck using the Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi TC. Can be found for around $150.
And transmission pump.

Don't think the rear main is leaking, but something up top has a weep to it.

The converter that's in it is a an upgraded billet(?) converter. I think it's whatever greendiesel recommended (They're local and did some of the work, I think.) Trans was shifting, if just a little aggressive (it's tuned)

Start disassembly tomorrow, weather permitting. I'll try to take some pics of the process.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

Monomer wrote:

Per GreedDiesel:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Make sure vehicle is secured on a lift or up at least 10 inches on jack stands.
3. A tranny jack is a must for supporting the trans after disconnecting from engine.
4. Remove mechanical fan with a large crescent wrench or equivalent. May need to hold the fan hub pulley in place while hitting the wrench with a hammer, it is a standard thread so left to loosen.
5. Remove wiring from starter and remove starter (3 bolts).
6. Remove torque converter access plug, located just above starter.
7. Remove front skid plate (4 bolts).
8. Pull transmission line connector off the attachment stud on the bottom side of oil pan. This provides enough play so trans cooler lines do not have to be disconnected.
9. Remove front propshaft (NOTE: use paint pen to mark both shafts when removing so they are re-installed in same orientation this will make sure the balance is maintained), may need to use a punch to pop out CV joint after bolts are loose as it tends to freeze in position. Having the trans in neutral may make disassembly easier.
10. Remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to axle, let the drive shaft hang down.
11. Disconnect the two exhaust hanger isolators from the crossmember.
12. The front hub on the engine has a 20-21mm nut that is used to rotate the engine over clockwise to get the 4 torque converter bolts to line up in the access window just above the starter.
13. Line up each TC bolt in window and remove one at a time, then rotate engine 90 degrees and proceed with next bolt until all four are removed.
14. Remove all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine, minus the two that are on the topside of the trans.
15. Remove the six crossmember bolts, while having a jack supporting the transmission.
16. Lower the transmission as far as it will go, now you will have access to the two bolts at the top of the trans that are still holding it to the engine (keep slight pressure on the jack).
17. Use a swivel and long extension to reach the two bolts from underneath the vehicle, the approach should be from the driver’s side of the vehicle.
18. Jack up tranny a little bit and then pull the unit rearward until it disconnects from engine.
19. Disconnect the 10mm bolt that holds the transmission dipstick to the trans. Pull the dipstick upward until it pops out of tranny (may need to lower tranny for this).
20. Now the unit can be lowered and pushed further back so the torque converter can be removed.
21. Make sure have a drip pan underneath bell housing when removing converter as 1 to 3 quarts of fluid will drain out of converter.
22. Re-install in reverse order, make sure to align the dowel pins on the engine adapter plate to the bell housing and tighten one attachment bolt to pull the units back together.
23. Note when installing the four bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel. Get all 4 bolts installed one at a time, but just hand tighten and back out ¼ turn until all four are installed. Then torque each one and finally complete a torque check on each bolt after the sequence is complete. There is no sense to short cut this and risk a torque converter becoming loose.

I made it to this step and kinda messed up. I pulled the four bolts from transfer case side, not rear diff side.

On the positive side, the fluid get's replaced, along with a new seal. I hope that's all that's needed for this? I'm just about to drop it and hope I didn't ruin anything: besides causing a bit more work for myself.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

Update:

I had to remove ONE torque converter bolt, The rest are gone. I'm upto step 14 on the GDE guide posted. I have no idea how much room just separating the trans will get me, as the guide doesn't list pulling electronics or shift cables. Hopefully it's enough to replace the flexplate.

Also, I pulled the rear of the transfer case off by mistake. Best way to deal with this? It needs a new seal, but won't come completely off.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

flash7210 wrote:

Quote:

I really don't want to drop the trans out if I don't have too. From the looks of it, just these four bolts are the root cause. They've backed out enough to run into the

The question question is, what do the threads look like in the TC?
In any case, use new bolts and put blue locktite on them.

Properly botched. That's what they look like.

It's a Suncoast TC, I'd rather try to fix than replace! I've yet to actually yank it, but it looks as if I can just pop in a new bolt pattern in the cover. I hope this is the case, and I'm glad I have access to a Bridgeport!

Not sure how green diesel does it, I have little room to do anything with the electronics and cooler lines attached. Since I already have to reseal the transfercase and mess with the converter, I'm going to just pull it completely. I really, really hate ATF.

Some pics of the carnage to follow, can't get to many great pics under the jeep.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2016 9:30 am

I had to fix my Suncoast when the bolts backed out. I drilled out the existing holes on a milling machine and heli coiled them. Has been working great for years. I used red Loctite during assembly.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

SargeIndustries wrote:

I had to fix my Suncoast when the bolts backed out. I drilled out the existing holes on a milling machine and heli coiled them. Has been working great for years. I used red Loctite during assembly.

Keenserts/tapserts would work, they're far beyond what I'd trust a helicoil to fix. I'm just going to put in a new pattern, as the front cover looks to be solid all the way round.

I thought the normal census here was blue loctite on the bolts, as red would certainly be a PITA to remove if the trans ever needed to be dropped again. I planed on using red for flexplate to crank bolts, blue for everything else.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2016 1:52 pm

On the flexplate to torque converter bolts I would vote for the RED Loctite especially since you have already experienced a problem of them coming loose and backing out before... :idea:

Red is not near as permanent as some would try to have you to believe! Most times a fastener will turn loose with the red Loctite on it without any problem! If you ever experience trouble removing a fastener with Red or Blue Loctite on it, simply apply some low heat with a heat gun or small torch, the glue will break down and release the fastener...
I used Red Loctite on my TC bolts when my Suncoast TC was installed...very cheap insurance! :wink:

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

WWDiesel wrote:

On the flexplate to torque converter bolts I would vote for the RED Loctite especially since you have already experienced a problem of them coming loose and backing out before... :idea:

Red is not near as permanent as some would try to have you to believe! Most times a fastener will turn loose with the red Loctite on it without any problem! If you ever experience trouble removing a fastener with Red or Blue Loctite on it, simply apply some low heat with a heat gun or small torch, the glue will break down and release the fastener...
I used Red Loctite on my TC bolts when the Suncoast was installed...very cheap insurance! :wink:

The problem is, how the hell would you heat it through the little starter hole!

I'll use red on all the things. I just hope to next guy to do this isn't me! Anyone have the torque numbers for all of these? flexplate to crank and flexplate to converter?

Two cooler lines and the trans is free from the jeep. I made the mistake of not draining it before all of this, so it'll get drained when it's out, along with a new mount and filter. Also need to look at the CKP sensor lines, as the PO mended them and I've had problems with them. Oh and the rear diff is leaking, might take care of that too.

Monomer · **Joined:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:10 pm **Posts:** 31

Is there something special to getting the converter seated properly?

Can't seem to mesh on the second set of splines. just spins and wobbles around.

Gallery of the carnage: http://www.imgur.com/a/4sev8

I'm glad I went ahead and ordered a new flexplate. My brother in-law drilled and tapped new holes in the converter, came out perfect! I'll snap some pictures of it tomorrow - I normally play music from my phone when working on cars.

2006 CRD, odd noises (video)

Who is online