First, thanks for the add. We bought a 2010 Liberty Sport about 6 or 7 years ago and have since put about 150,000kms on it, 191,000 total. It's been a great all around little rig, we live about 40kms on a poorly maintained mud road and has held up well for a newer vehicle. There are a few issues that are a major pain, but is relatively easy to work on. My latest issue that is making me want to nut punch a Chrysler engineer is the non serviceable front driveshaft with a piddly CV end at the transfercase. I am at the point that if I could find a new one I would slap it in and hope for couple more years, but I would like to find a spacer/adapter for the 6 bolt transfercase end to put a driveshaft flanged yoke on it so I can get a driveshaft made for it. My machine shop said there used to be such an animal, but they cannot find it anymore, am I out of luck on store bought? I have seen rebuilds for the CV (the end that is toast) but they seem out of stock everywhere. My other option, and the one I might go with is to have a flanged adapter made to fit the transfercase ball end for the flanged yoke, but I am hoping some insight from those who may have been there have done. In my use of the search I haven't really found an answer, and it seems there are a lot of you folks that lift their Libertys so I think you would have had a similar problem and have tried to upgrade. Thanks, Greg.

Here is a thread that addresses the exact problem you describe. You can replace that pesky transfer case side CV joint for under $70. The thread has pictures of the KJ but the KK is similar. At the end there are some links to purchase the KK specific part from driveshaftparts.com. It's a common issue, but not too bad to fix. I have replaced mine once.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=56917

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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic

Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
BFG KO2’s 245/75R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
AtTheHelm Front Recovery System & Roof Rack
M116A3 Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997

Thanks for the link. From what I can tell, driveshaftparts.com is out of stock. What I then did was input the part number "CVJ015" into Google to see where else I can find it, but all the eBay and other links also say "out of stock," or "sold out." My local dealer can't even get the driveshaft. All the parts houses local say they cannot get either a rebuild or driveshaft for the kk designation, no problem for the previous generation though.

Well, thats too bad that it seems to be out of stock nationally! Bummer.

If it were me I would try to source one from a low mileage KK in a junkyard. You can search for one on http://www.car-part.com to see if there is a junkyard near you with a part in good condition. (I did this 75,000 miles ago to find a CV for the right front axle and it has been fine.) If a part isn't available locally, many junkyard operations will ship for an additional fee. Good luck with the search. You can try to find the CV or just look for the whole front driveshaft as a unit.

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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic

Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
BFG KO2’s 245/75R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
AtTheHelm Front Recovery System & Roof Rack
M116A3 Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997

A link from CRD section might help.
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=77641

One of their links. http://www.customdriveshafts.com/Cherok ... RezRez.asp

Liberty CRD on facebook has some links also. Including this one. www.amweicancvstore.com

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Now have GDE full torque eco tune and eco transmission tune. Used an 02 liberty trans computer for my new trans tune.

Simple solution for above statement is you must was the undercarriage very good daily.Recessed CV boots will never last when packed with mud,nor will u-joints.

Putting a u-joint on that side will fix 1 issue but another issue will arise(vibrations due to u-joint angles not correct).

Thanks for the replies, I am going to check some of the farther away wreckers and pick-n-pulls this week to see if I can't find a good used unit. dennyb, the last link didn't work, but thanks for the others. tjkj2002, thanks for the tip, we try to clean everything regularly, unfortunately the weather doesn't always co-operate especially in the fall and spring when it freezes and thaws. I am going to check the tcase to diff alignment as well as the pinion and tcase angles to ensure that a serviceable ujoint driveshaft would be aligned and within acceptable running angles if I were to go that route. My beater F150 and old tow pig Ram 250 are not nearly as finicky as this jeep is for ujoint, cv, bearing and driveline wear. On the Liberty you definitely know when there is a bit of mud in the wheels, thing vibrates like mad till you knock it out, then all's be good. I am always amazed at the toerances that it runs if that little buildup can affect it that much. Thanks, Greg.

Edit: How are the lifts on these accomplished? Is it just a spring lift and control arm extension or is the whole diff cradle dropped and the front driveshaft angle changed? I never looked into it.

Who seriously washes their under carriage on a daily basis? No offense meant... but if that is what it takes to keep the CV joints (a critical drive-line component... ) working properly... then Chrysler done messed up.

I am in need of a CV rebuild for my front drive shaft as well. I cannot believe that such a newer generation vehicle is this difficult to find parts for other than buying straight from Mopar for their over-priced parts. I am glad this thread popped up - now I have to hope some poor son of a gun crashed their 08 to 12 KK so I can go pull their front driveshaft.

You ain't the only frustrated one, WyldeRyde!

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2012 Bright white KK - Steelcraft black brushguard, painted black rims (didn't know it was so popular lol), 1" clevis lift in the front, RS Chip (woke her up!), magnaflow muffler + resonator delete and a few other small mods.

If your driving in mud 365 days out of the year that is what will be required to keep that CV alive along with any seal found under the vehicle.That is a issue with any new vehicle running CV's on the driveshafts.

It's just one of those things I put up there as far as maintenance if you love outta town. I know I need to replace unit bearings every 3 years . There will be some things that vibrate loose on this, wear out faster or need to be replaced sooner. I should have bought an old tercel, my neighbors beat the living hell out of those cars, and live farther back on a worse road and those little beater boxes keep going with little to no work put into them.

Edit: The machine shop I went to was once able to get a tcase flange for adapting it to a ujoint, the fact that they can't anymore is either a sign that it causes too many problems OR that it was a super popular part and is hard to keep in stock. That said, my 4x4 shop converts Wranglers to Ujoints all the time, it's part of what they recommend when lifting those soccer-mom-mobiles.

But comparing lifting a TJ/JK Wrangler and a KK / KJ Liberty is like comparing apples and oranges .
On the Wranglers when you lift you also change the angles on the drive line front and back
On the KJ/KK Libertys only the rear changes NOT the front, so one, no need for going to a u-joint setup and two it will cause vibes.
Don't you think that if that was the " easy fix" we would all of been doing it 12-14 years ago??

And as far as Tercels and other throw away cars, most people don't take care of them run them till they die and there is so much wrong with them at any given time they are almost totally unsafe to be on the road .

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

This statement I can agree with 100% and know it is fact.I see them everyday at work.My goal is to send at least 2 a week to the junkyard,I've reached and exceded that goal every week(besides when I'm on vacation) for the last 10 years.Only a couple more million to go.

Ha ha, you must know my neighbors. That's pretty much how they treat their vehicles. I know that if there was a fix you guys would have been running it for a while, was kinda hoping that it was just hard to find on the Internet and you guys had been keeping it a secret. I get that comparing those two vehicles was completely different, solid axle vs ifs and all that, but hoping that both having a front shaft with a ujoint on one end and the rezeppa cv joint on the other end and having to replace the cv with a ujoint was comparable. Turns out it kinda is, the JK guys also note vibrations on double cardian swaps from the rezeppa, only reason they swap is if mad flex and articulation or caster isn't corrected on the front lift. I was really hoping for just a rebuild, but I am now on the lookout for a good used, if I get half the mileage out of a used unit I would be happy. Found some posts out there stating the rezeppa joint is rated for a higher torque than a standard 1350, and can handle a harsher working angle than the same joint. Jeep wouldn't use it for its cost effectiveness, must be another reason then right? On a side note, thanks for answering my question regarding how these are lifted, I didn't think they made a cradle drop style for the front diff.

Related to this, but has anyone relocated the O2 sensor that is below the front propshaft? When I pulled the front shaft I pulled the sensor and the threads were all chewed up/rusted out and before I weld in a new bung and replace the sensor was wondering IF anyone moved the sensor to a new location in the cat that made it easier to pull the drive shaft?

Thanks for all the responses guys, great forum. Greg.

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05 White Limited