kj stalled om me fore the first time

foxhunter · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:35 pm

my 2006 has 65000 miles on it, not sure whether the filter is partiall clogged or there is an air leak. thinking of a updated fuel filter head and a lift pump.
what are your thoughts on updated Chrysler vs racor? and what are people using for a lift pump these days?/

after the liby sat for about 5 minutes it started and has run fine since.

forgot

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:41 pm

What were the symptoms when it stalled? Was it a few miles after starting cold? Need more info for better diagnosis... :wink:

Most likely the Crank Position Sensor; they are known for going bad and putting you on the side of the road with NO DTC's. :roll:

There is plenty of information on CPS failure and how to replace on this forum...

foxhunter · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:15 pm

wasn't cold as we were in town running around, mad a stop as the Dr's and walley world.
left walley world and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped at a red light. as the light changed and we pulled away the engine quit about 40 yards past the light. made the same sound as when you shut off the key.
while I am here where should the temperature needle run on the crd, mine is at the 1/4 mark most of the time,

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:26 pm

foxhunter wrote:

wasn't cold as we were in town running around, mad a stop as the Dr's and walley world.
left walley world and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped at a red light. as the light changed and we pulled away the engine quit about 40 yards past the light. made the same sound as when you shut off the key.
while I am here where should the temperature needle run on the crd, mine is at the 1/4 mark most of the time,

Just get the new mopar fuel filter assembly. Its the easiest to install.
The in tank lift pump is the best but there are other options. I use a Facet pump.
You need a new thermostat. Should be just below the 1/2 mark. Check IDparts.com. Dont get Crown parts.

The CRD Tech section should provide most of the info you need.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:36 pm

foxhunter wrote:

wasn't cold as we were in town running around, mad a stop as the Dr's and walley world.
left walley world and drove about 1/2 mile and stopped at a red light. as the light changed and we pulled away the engine quit about 40 yards past the light. made the same sound as when you shut off the key.
while I am here where should the temperature needle run on the crd, mine is at the 1/4 mark most of the time,

OK, you have the classic symptoms of a bad CPS (crank position sensor)!
They usually cut you off after driving a short distance during the engine warm up cycle.
Normal engine temperature is just a tic left of straight up on the temperature gauge.
A new Bosch CPS can be purchased for ~50 bucks at Autozone under their store brand Duralast, Part Number: SU8492 (will be a Bosch part in Duralast Box)
There are instructions on this forum on how to replace if you want to do-it-yourself, just do a search! :wink:

It is not a real bad job, should be done from underneath the vehicle.

If you need help or advice, just ask, many on here more than willing to help!!!!!

foxhunter · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:02 pm

went to walley world, 10 miles wouldn't start when I came out. pumped the fuel filter and it started. drove to oreillys to check a code and it died in their drive way. pumped the filterontil it thought I gave it a shot of hiagra, pump very firm and it started and we made it 10 miles home. turned it off and it restarted.
any further thoughts, I am going to replace the sensor whether it need it or not.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:11 pm

Sounds like a air in fuel problem.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 7:21 pm

what's involved in switching to the upgrade fuel filter head? wiring???????

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 27, 2016 8:08 pm

foxhunter wrote:

what's involved in switching to the upgrade fuel filter head? wiring???????

This thread might help http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64260

First, if your fuel heater plug already has a light blue connector, then you dont need this.

Basically, its two wire connectors on the filter head, one connector at the bottom of the filter sensor, and 2 bolts.
The new filter assembly should include the wiring kit for the new fuel heater connector.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2016 12:11 am

I'm guessing the consensus is the air in the fuel system is the problem.

no blue plug so new head it is. I would have replaced it anyway knowing there was an issue with it, probably going to a Kennedy type 4 psi lift pump. is there any other fix for the poor fuel line connectors on the tank?

has anyone used a Carter P4600 HP lift pump on their crd?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2016 4:08 pm

foxhunter wrote:

I'm guessing the consensus is the air in the fuel system is the problem.

no blue plug so new head it is. I would have replaced it anyway knowing there was an issue with it, probably going to a Kennedy type 4 psi lift pump. is there any other fix for the poor fuel line connectors on the tank?

has anyone used a Carter P4600 HP lift pump on their crd?

The cleanest option is to use a Carter P76148M in-tank fuel pump or equivalent! Your Jeep is already factory wired to to a connector under the back seat on the drivers side for the in-tank pump including a fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Center and the ECM already has the logic loaded for operation of the pump! :wink:

(The fuel pump relay runs the pump for ~15 seconds when you switch the key to the ON position and then runs the pump continuously when you start the engine)
It is a pump for a diesel like the ones used in the Dodge Cummins Ram trucks.

Additional in-tank fuel pump part numbers: AIRTEX-E7181M, DELPHI-FG1224, MOPAR-5143160AA

A properly installed in-tank lift pump will ensure absolutely no air infusion into the fuel system period! :!:

An in-tank lift pump puts the entire fuel system under a positive (+) pressure from where it first exits the fuel pump inside the fuel tank through all the fuel lines and fittings, through the fuel filter head, heater, and filter, all the way to the back of the CP3 injection pump.
ANY LEAK anywhere on the system will show up as fuel leaking out. Air simply cannot get into the system while it is under 10-15 psig of pressure!!!

If you opt to do the wiring harness mod yourself, all you will have to add is two wires from under the rear seat to the top of the fuel tank. The fuel line fittings are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum, and will work just fine with the in-tank pump install and will not require any changes...

These two links below should answer any questions concerning installing an in-tank lift pump and wiring it up properly.
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/
viewtopic.php?t=26385&highlight=

Seth at Sasquatch Parts has both the fuel pumps and correct wiring harness on his web site, Link: > https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/
Link:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/in-tank-lift-pump-for-jeep-liberty-crd-carter-p76148m/

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2016 10:24 pm

i'll try this again, first reply disappeared. sounds very logical even to a layman like me.

another question, does anyone know what the inner dimensions are for the upper radiator hose. Meziere makes a in hose thermostat holder. anyone using one on their crd? I put a similar device called a thermobob on my klr 650 Kawasaki to solve another bean counter problem.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 28, 2016 11:12 pm

foxhunter wrote:

i'll try this again, first reply disappeared. sounds very logical even to a layman like me.

another question, does anyone know what the inner dimensions are for the upper radiator hose. Meziere makes a in hose thermostat holder. anyone using one on their crd? I put a similar device called a thermobob on my klr 650 Kawasaki to solve another bean counter problem.

I use the Meziere WN0072.
But I recommend gutting the factory thermostat housing before using any kind of inline thermostat.
Using a inline thermostat along with the factory thermostat is not recommended and could create coolant flow and overheating problems.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2016 4:06 am

I thought the thermostat was built into the housing, if you don't mind me asking, how did you gut it?
what size hole did you drill in the inline t-stat? did you go with the 180* or the 195*.
thx

bob

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:25 am

You can see the seam around the top of the housing. In fact you can probably wiggle the outlet just slightly. I use a hammer and chisel and a vice to break the lip around that seam, removed the thermostat thingy, then sealed it back up with JBweld.
You could probably just as easily use a dremel.

I use a 195 with two 1/16 holes drilled 180deg apart. It runs a bit on the cool side.
Do a search for my zero thermostat mod.

Edit:
Caution: before you go ahead and separate the housing, you might want to have a backup plan just in case you do some sort of damage that you cannot fix. When I did mine I already had another thermostat to use. Mine was intended to be a short lived experiment but it worked well enough that I kept it in place.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:36 pm

[/quote]I use the Meziere WN0072.
But I recommend gutting the factory thermostat housing before using any kind of inline thermostat.
Using a inline thermostat along with the factory thermostat is not recommended and could create coolant flow and overheating problems.[/quote]

I'm guessing you are referring to a thermostat stuck in the open position being used in conjunction with the inline filter would be a bad idea.

pulled the maf sensor an removed all the charcoal brickets on it. while I was working I remember some one had mentioned the c word (chafe). with that in mind I started looking at wiring harnesses and there they were chafed wires bare to the world. three to be exact one of which was the two wires going to the #1 injector, can't imagine it was working as the wires were bare and touching.

I also grabbed a 7/16 inch and pumped up the fuel filter. when I cracked the bleeder it sounded like it farted air for a while. repeated until only fuel came out, started right up and purred like a growly kitten.

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 2:11 pm

well WWDiesel I replaced the fuel filter head and it just died on me about a mile from home. cracked the bleed valve and got air on the first couple tries then just fuel. still wouldn't start. let it sit for about 20 minutesd and it started right up. wonder if we are fighting 2 deamons at the same time. air in fuel system and crankshaft position sensor. the symptoms fit both.

WWDiesel wrote:

foxhunter wrote:

I'm guessing the consensus is the air in the fuel system is the problem.

no blue plug so new head it is. I would have replaced it anyway knowing there was an issue with it, probably going to a Kennedy type 4 psi lift pump. is there any other fix for the poor fuel line connectors on the tank?

has anyone used a Carter P4600 HP lift pump on their crd?

The cleanest option is to use a Carter P76148M in-tank fuel pump or equivalent! Your Jeep is already factory wired to to a connector under the back seat on the drivers side for the in-tank pump including a fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Center and the ECM already has the logic loaded for operation of the pump! :wink:

(The fuel pump relay runs the pump for ~15 seconds when you switch the key to the ON position and then runs the pump continuously when you start the engine)
It is a pump for a diesel like the ones used in the Dodge Cummins Ram trucks.

Additional in-tank fuel pump part numbers: AIRTEX-E7181M, DELPHI-FG1224, MOPAR-5143160AA

A properly installed in-tank lift pump will ensure absolutely no air infusion into the fuel system period! :!:

An in-tank lift pump puts the entire fuel system under a positive (+) pressure from where it first exits the fuel pump inside the fuel tank through all the fuel lines and fittings, through the fuel filter head, heater, and filter, all the way to the back of the CP3 injection pump.
ANY LEAK anywhere on the system will show up as fuel leaking out. Air simply cannot get into the system while it is under 10-15 psig of pressure!!!

If you opt to do the wiring harness mod yourself, all you will have to add is two wires from under the rear seat to the top of the fuel tank. The fuel line fittings are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum, and will work just fine with the in-tank pump install and will not require any changes...

These two links below should answer any questions concerning installing an in-tank lift pump and wiring it up properly.
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/
viewtopic.php?t=26385&highlight=

Seth at Sasquatch Parts has both the fuel pumps and correct wiring harness on his web site, Link: > https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/
Link:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/in-tank-lift-pump-for-jeep-liberty-crd-carter-p76148m/

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 3:42 pm

Yep, If you bleed all the air out real good and pumped the fuel system up good and tight (plunger), then there definitely is something else amiss.

CPS have caused some really strange failures as posted by some on this forum and their failure patterns are not always the same so you can not rule anything out with them! :roll:

foxhunter · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 4:52 pm

seems like it is heat related, starts when it has a while to cool off. will have a new cps in hand Wednesday, carter pump tomorrow.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:03 pm

foxhunter wrote:

seems like it is heat related, starts when it has a while to cool off. will have a new cps in hand Wednesday, carter pump tomorrow.

If it starts OK after cooling off and you have not pumped up the fuel filter head, then it is not fuel related as air in fuel will not heal itself without some kind of intervention!!!!

CPS's are notorious for crapping out during the engine heat up cycle and a few have experienced them dying at normal operating temperature!!! :juggle:

I am betting on the CPS! :wink:

kj stalled om me fore the first time

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