I raced cars for Mazda for many years and built cars (turbo) for others. Just wondering if part of our problem with the EGR and intake mess could stem from turning off the KJ immediately after driving. I always installed a "Turbo Timer" in any car I built so that oil/water kept circulating for a programmed amount of time after taking the key out of the ignition. It was to let the turbo housing/impeller blade cool down and stop coking of the shaft and sludge from building up.

It would not be out of the question that the same remedy "might" help lessen our dilema. Any Thoughts?

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

The turbo cool down is specifically to prevent the oil in the turbo from carbonizing - i.e. if you turn if off while it's hot & the oil stop pumping it burns - that might have a secondary effect on the EGR, maybe something in there needs to cool or stabilize - but that's a guess. The problem with trying to diagnose EGR's is that I don't actually know what failed on the unit or why - a check engine light isn't very informative. If someone's been able to take a failed unit and compare to a good unit there should be some clues - dirty/clogged parts, melted parts, something not opening all the way ect. My EGR failed and while I don't have the Turbo timer - I'm fairly consistent about allowing cool down.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Maybe the answer to some of the EGR problems is that it isn't always the EGR. I've had two EGR's replaced. The last time the codes where P0401 and P0299. I didn't get the Jeep back home after the last EGR replacement before the codes reappeard. I took it back in, and after further troubleshooting, they found that the EGR Air Flow Control Valve was stuck open (causing insufficient EGR flow). The replaced the EGR Air Flow Control Valve and I haven't had problems since. Might be worth checking out...

Darby.

What ever it is I don't suspect oil from the turbo. When I first drove my CRD home a month ago I removed the engine cover so I could see the engine As you know to do so the oil cap need to come off. I could not believe the oil vapor that came out. Not smoke, vapor. So I put on a provent and changed to Shell Rotella 5-40 (synthetic). I suspected to see lots of oil in my provent and the line going to it. It's been on there 150 k miles and all is still dry, no sign of oil in the provent or the line from the turbo to the intercooler. It had a lot in the line when I put the provent on and wiped it clean. TDI's use a Garrett turbo and they don't have leakage problems. There has been a few that have had broken shafts and the oil and parts were ingested in to the engine trashing it. The oil vapor will eventually mix with the soot and clog the intake but that takes more miles then most of us have. They eather have a big bad lot of egr valves or something else is to blame. I rolls me over knowing they have two valves with almost identical names. Is the second one the electrically operated butterfly thing on the driver's side? What does it do? On a VW it would just close at shutdown to keep the engine from shuttering to a stop. (anti shudder valve) I hope I'm not jinksing myself but 800 miles and no light.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

It took a good 2K miles with the Provent installed to saturate the filter and start dropping oil down the drain tube. Now that is flowing get @ 3-4 oz. in the drain bottle at oil change time. 3 to 4 oz is far from the amount topped-off. Provent to turbo line is completely clean, definately passing it through the turbo seals.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.