It is currently Sun Nov 08, 2026 5:58 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 60 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:03 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:16 pm
Posts: 282
Location: Upper Midwest USA
'06 with 14,500 miles. Had the transmission filter and BCM TSB's done. No problems so far.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD Bright Silver Metallic (NOW SOLD)
All Recalls Performed
100k extended warranty
Fumoto Oil Drain Valves (Oil Pan & Transfer Case)
V6 Airbox Mod
New Driveshaft, New EGR
2003 Wrangler Sport 4.0L, Bright Blue
2007 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 4 Door, Red Rock Crystal Pearl WOW!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 12:05 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:52 am
Posts: 3442
Location: Columbus, Ohio. USA
markpb wrote:
'06 with a 2/06 build date. 2,500 miles and no problems yet other than a slight shudder around 55 that happened only 2x.


Mark.

Another CRD owner pinned down the conditions causing the studder. Enter the freeway but keep RPM's under 2700 (or around there as I remember) as you accelerate and when you ease up on the peddle at around 55 to 65 you'll most likely get it. If you go over 2700 getting up to speed you won't. Just a FYI. I verified it on my 06 build 1/17/06.

Joe

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:13 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 5:25 am
Posts: 2019
Location: El Paso TX/Friedrichsdorf DE
06 Sport CRD, 12/05 6500 miles, on the German autobahns cruising at 90-110 mph not one problem. Well except the drive shaft being out of balance. Other than that it has been great on and off road.

_________________
No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:27 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 11:25 am
Posts: 27
Location: N. Texas (Granbury)
05' Sport (build date 05/05) with about 8K miles on it. No problems yet.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:02 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 8:32 pm
Posts: 133
Location: Southern Lower MI
Knock on wood so far, 3900mi and still ticking.

_________________
Flame Red 2005 Rubicon Unlimited, 4.0L, 6sp, dual tops, Amsoil ASL 5W30 engine oil and EAO42 filter, IPF 920hc head light conversion with PIAA Xtreme White plus bulbs, Sylvania Silverstar H3ST fogs, Armadillo front/rear bumper caps and pretty much loaded.A few pics of my rig. http://www.gwkweather.net/id5.html


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:29 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:57 am
Posts: 15
Location: Bismarck, ND
I now have about 10000 miles on my 05 CRD and have had no problems except I did have 2 glow plugs that have had to be replaced but up here -10 to -20 below zero Farenheit is not uncommon during the winter months. The only modifications I have done is put a full Trans-Go shift kit into it and a Trans-Temp Gauge as I pull with it all the time (sometimes 5000 to 6000 lbs).


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:33 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 1944
Location: Mooresville, NC
Guess I'll have to change my "none" vote to at least "one". MAF sensor code morphed into two other codes, 0104 and 0299 - you guessed it, EGR.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:08 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2005 10:54 pm
Posts: 339
Location: Pinnacle, North-Carolina
17000 miles and just had the EGR replaced.

Tech said that our bad fuel is the cause?

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Build Date May '05
OME lift kit
Samco hoses
Weeks Stage 1
PMF EGR plug kit
ARP Stud
Cracked CAC repaired with epoxy filler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:11 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:12 pm
Posts: 3255
Location: SwampEast MO
MAF & EGT Flow Control Valve early on below 5,000 miles, also had TSB for tranny filter done at 1700 miles and just have the funky shift at 35 mph.

The passanger side IC hose is slowly going bad just from the oil that was in the IC system prior to CCV test period. There is so much oil in the CAC that I was unable to validate the CCV filter test unit. I have the test unit off and I am in the process of trying to get dealer to replace the Intercooler & hose's.

What is really funny is on the MB V6 CDI below you can see the same little black worthless Pressure Regulator, at least MB has it pointed in an upward direction which will allow oil to drain back to engine better, but they will also have the same problem if there is no filter installed.

Image

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:28 am 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:52 am
Posts: 3442
Location: Columbus, Ohio. USA
Old Navy

Do you suppose they're hoping by eliminating the sulpher the soot will be go away and the oil won't be a problem? Also what oil are you using? Since getting the factory "water" out of there and puting in Rotella 5-40 I don't see near the vapor under the oil cap as I did. Do they have the soot/oil build up in Europe on EGR diesels like we do here :idea:

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 9:30 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 12:20 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joe Romas wrote:
markpb wrote:
'06 with a 2/06 build date. 2,500 miles and no problems yet other than a slight shudder around 55 that happened only 2x.


Mark.

Another CRD owner pinned down the conditions causing the studder. Enter the freeway but keep RPM's under 2700 (or around there as I remember) as you accelerate and when you ease up on the peddle at around 55 to 65 you'll most likely get it. If you go over 2700 getting up to speed you won't. Just a FYI. I verified it on my 06 build 1/17/06.

Joe


Thanks Joe. I tried to recreate the shudder but no luck. There was quite a bit of traffic both tries so I couldn't hover around 55 too long. I'll keep an eye on it.

_________________
~Mark
'06 Silver Sport CRD, ipod Adapter, Side Air Bags, Sunroof, Tow, Skids


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 9:42 am 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 8:31 pm
Posts: 1465
Location: Kent, OH
Joe Romas wrote:
Old Navy

Do you suppose they're hoping by eliminating the sulpher the soot will be go away and the oil won't be a problem?

Old Navy is correct. If oil remains present in your air intake, you will eventually have problems. If it's not the intake manifold plugging from soot/oil slurry, it will happen on the exhaust side. The oil that does manage to burn produces excessive amounts of soot and what doesn't burn will coat/coke the exhaust hardware (VGT, EGR, CAT, PF) causing additional mechanical failures. It took a good 10K+ of CRD life experience to realize this vehicle has issues in this area, including running 5W40 and a Provent. This past week, I met with the local DC reps concerning the oil control/consumption and oily CAC problem on mine. They danced all around the subject but realized they need to dry out the CAC and deal with my transmission issues or they will end up buying it back.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 10:12 am 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 1944
Location: Mooresville, NC
When I dropped mine off yesterday for EGR replacement, I took along the Provent filter I just swapped out after roughly 9000 miles. I showed it to the service writers and explained "that's part of what's getting sucked out of the valve cover and into the air intake on these beasts", and that once a month I was draining anywhere from one to two ounces of oil out of the filter.

The people at this dealership have been there long term, and understand diesels. When they saw the filter and and then heard what it was from, there was a lot of head shaking and looks of disgust to go around.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 1:01 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:12 pm
Posts: 3255
Location: SwampEast MO
Joe Romas wrote:
Old Navy

Do you suppose they're hoping by eliminating the sulpher the soot will be go away and the oil won't be a problem? Also what oil are you using? Since getting the factory "water" out of there and puting in Rotella 5-40 I don't see near the vapor under the oil cap as I did. Do they have the soot/oil build up in Europe on EGR diesels like we do here :idea:
Joe I hate to whack you up side your head but it is not about the precieved thin oil used in CRD.

In a mineral based oil, the only thing that flows like a 10W at cold temps IS a 10W. Thus when a 5W-40 is made, one begins with a 20,000 gallon vat of 5W oil then you add VI improvers (plastic coil springs) which expand when heated, shrink when cooled. Thus the 5W oil has the viscosity of a 40W at operational temps, a 5W when cooled.

With a full synthetic Group IV or group V oil, we can actually start out with a 40W base stock as synthetic oils do not thicken with cold temps (nor do they thin as much as mineral based oils with heat). So, a 40W base stock may meet the cold flow characteristics of a 5W, even a 0W, thus enabling the 0W-40 API rating. Thus contrary to the old wive's tale, (that synthetics are 'thin' and thus leak) most synthetic oils are actually thicker than their mineral based equivalents.

They volitilty of these oils, including the class III non synthetic oils have additives that can help alter the ability of the oil to not vaporize as easily, the Mobil 0w-40 has a lower volitily the Mobil 1 5w-40 by design as it is an older oil and the engines it was designed to protect didn't need that amount of protection. Same applies to the soot carrying ability of the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil, it wasn't needed to have the soot carrying ability the Mobil 1 5w-40 that was designed for a higher soot engine using 500 ppm fuel compaired European average of 50 ppm average.

The Rotella T Synthetic oil is a trade name, it is a class III oil, just as most other good (non synthetic oils) class III oils you can buy off the shelf. The term synthetic was rulled a trade name in a suit by Mobil Oil against Castrol calling their class III oil a synthetic oil about 10 years ago when Mobil lost the case. Following this rulling many others jumped on the synthetic oil band wagon for higher proffit margins, and suddenly you saw every brand under the sun come to the shelves in local auto store and Wally-World. This court rulling has gone unnoticed by most of the general population including lower levels of the auto repair world such as you local tec who works on your car, but believe me the auto mfg's know about the rulling and the differences. That is why they have in some cases (Ford, MB or VW for example) developed very specfic standards requirring test to meet those standards. In some cases the individual engine design can require a very different oil for what seems to some people just another engine. If you have any doubts about the Class I, II, III, IV oils feel free to do the Google or contact the lab that did your oil testing. You have done an oil sample test haven't you? I seem to remembered you doing one but I could be mistaken.

Ok I am off the stand about oils.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 4:53 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:52 am
Posts: 3442
Location: Columbus, Ohio. USA
I know all about the above suite about 3 vs 4 oils. As I recall the suite determined that the oil had enough changes to call it a "synthetic". I've used Rotella 5-40 in my 2 previous tdi's with the recommended change intervals (7500 and 10,000) and never had any oil consumption or turbo problems. I drove both tdi's over 100k miles. On my CRD I definetly have less vapor in the blow by with the rotella 5-40 then with whatever it came with. I know it's not rated for PD engines.

Joe

Edit: No I've not done a oil anaylis on my oil. Actually the 96 Passat did the first 50k on 15-40 rotella that I had used in the previous 10 or so diesels.

What oil do you use (Delvac-1)?

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 6:31 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:15 pm
Posts: 167
I was at my local auto parts store today and saw Shell Rotella motor oil, but it was not synthetic blend. Does Rotella come in a synthetic blend like is recomended in the CRD manual? or is everyone running 100% synthetic Rotella or just plain Rotella motor oil? Thanks

_________________
'05 CRD, Midnight Blue. Every option. Nice ride, idles like a garbage truck :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 7:25 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:12 pm
Posts: 3255
Location: SwampEast MO
Joe Romas wrote:
I know all about the above suite about 3 vs 4 oils. As I recall the suite determined that the oil had enough changes to call it a "synthetic". I've used Rotella 5-40 in my 2 previous tdi's with the recommended change intervals (7500 and 10,000) and never had any oil consumption or turbo problems. I drove both tdi's over 100k miles. On my CRD I definetly have less vapor in the blow by with the rotella 5-40 then with whatever it came with. I know it's not rated for PD engines.

Joe

Edit: No I've not done a oil anaylis on my oil. Actually the 96 Passat did the first 50k on 15-40 rotella that I had used in the previous 10 or so diesels.

What oil do you use (Delvac-1)?
I have been using Mobil 1 products since '77 and I guess like you, I never had a oil related problem. None of the cars or trucks since then have ever used or leaked oil, and most have been driven 150k by me. I used to have tem done on regular basis because I had a friend that ran an oil test lab and I got the service free, but like me he is now retired.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 11:28 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict

Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 8:31 pm
Posts: 1465
Location: Kent, OH
richardkf wrote:
I was at my local auto parts store today and saw Shell Rotella motor oil, but it was not synthetic blend. Does Rotella come in a synthetic blend like is recomended in the CRD manual? or is everyone running 100% synthetic Rotella or just plain Rotella motor oil? Thanks

The 5W40 is synthetic formula, look for the blue jug. The 15W40 is regular Rotella, comes in a white jug. Actually both are very good CI4+ rated diesel engine oils. If it weren't for the better cold flow of the 5W40 and warranty arguments, I would be comfortable with the regular Rotella 15W40.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 11:31 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:15 pm
Posts: 167
Thanks for the clarification. I will go check for it at Wal-Mart or Pep Boys.

RFCRD wrote:
richardkf wrote:
I was at my local auto parts store today and saw Shell Rotella motor oil, but it was not synthetic blend. Does Rotella come in a synthetic blend like is recomended in the CRD manual? or is everyone running 100% synthetic Rotella or just plain Rotella motor oil? Thanks

The 5W40 is synthetic formula, look for the blue jug. The 15W40 is regular Rotella, comes in a white jug. Actually both are very good CI4+ rated diesel engine oils. If it weren't for the better cold flow of the 5W40 and warranty arguments, I would be comfortable with the regular Rotella 15W40.

_________________
'05 CRD, Midnight Blue. Every option. Nice ride, idles like a garbage truck :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:30 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:12 pm
Posts: 3255
Location: SwampEast MO
RFCRD wrote:
richardkf wrote:
I was at my local auto parts store today and saw Shell Rotella motor oil, but it was not synthetic blend. Does Rotella come in a synthetic blend like is recomended in the CRD manual? or is everyone running 100% synthetic Rotella or just plain Rotella motor oil? Thanks

The 5W40 is synthetic formula, look for the blue jug. The 15W40 is regular Rotella, comes in a white jug. Actually both are very good CI4+ rated diesel engine oils. If it weren't for the better cold flow of the 5W40 and warranty arguments, I would be comfortable with the regular Rotella 15W40.
The Blue jug Rotella is a class III oil and not a true synthetic oil ask any oil engineer, it starts life the same as any non synthetic oil does. I'm not saying it is not a good oil, it is a very good oil just it is not synthetic and does not have the long life and temp capabilities as a true synthetic does, it is basically just a heavier additive package then you would normally have in most class III oils.

One thing I like about the Rotella T is they do not charge an extra arm & leg for something that is not a true synthetic oil as so many others do. In my opinion it is probably about the best class III non synthetic oil on the market, I would not have a problem using it in my CRD. I have even been thinking about changing over to the oil, but I am not sure how well it will hold up to 10k mile oil changes in the CRD and that is very inportant to me. If someone is running the Rotella T and doing 10k mile oil changes that has done a oil sample test to compare with a class IV oil like M 1 5w-40, or one of the other new class IV/V oils like Amsoil diesel oil, ELF, or other brands I would very much like to see the results. It is about saving $$$ to me and having a vehicle lasting a long time.

The reason I have stuck with true synthetic's (Mobil 1 & Amsoil) is I have never had a problem with any motorcycle, car, or truck I have ever owned over the last 30 years of useage reguardless of it being gas or diesel.

Edit: It is just plain hard to change from something you have had good results from over a long period of years, be it a brand of oil or a brand of cars, clothes or hand tool.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 60 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com