Odd missing or stutter problem

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Hello all CRD enthusiasts!
The problem is as the title suggest, but I have a hard time putting into words what it does. This problem only happens when its cold and for about 5-10 minutes. In that time, it only happens when its in gear or has some harder load like going up a hill. If its in park or neutral, it doesn't do it. Also, if it stutters a couple times in a row, the temp gauge will spike, but then go back to normal. Once in gear and I take off from a light, it runs fine.
It has yet to throw any codes and doesn't puke out any smokes when it does this.

The vehicle has 192K (Engine has 25K on it) but the fuel injection pump is original. Any thoughts? Sorry if I am not explaining this very well, but will do my best to answer any questions. Thanks!

Ken

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Jun 11, 2018 9:18 pm

are you having to top off the coolant, mysterious disappearance?

Billybob · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2018 3:58 am

Could be either the ambient temp sensor or air intake sensor failing and thereby confusing the ECM.

I would check the connections on these sensors or replace them and re-plug the connectors on the ECM with battery disconnected.

Whenever I see a post regarding a LHD 2006 CRD I have to mention the well known possible fault where the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket presses down on the wiring harness going behind it!

This could cause fraying of the insulation and thereby shorts down to chassis or shorts between two random wires.....so it is advisable to remove this bracket and inspect the wiring in that area for any damage. :wink:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:31 am

Almost certainly an electrical fault.

The way it happens between cold and warm and doesn't set a code sounds like a crankshaft position sensor starting to go bad. These are notoriously hard to pin down as symptoms vary.

I've never heard of one causing a temp gauge to spike though. This sounds more like a bad connection, loose ground, or, as noted, a short or ground within the loom.

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

rancherman wrote:

are you having to top off the coolant, mysterious disappearance?

Once in about 3 years, so basically no

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:03 pm

I would replace the crank sensor as a preemptive measure to rule it out. :wink:

They are notorious for causing strange problems during the warmup phase of engine operation and most times never trip a DTC. :roll:

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Thanks! Are they difficult to replace or expensive?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 12, 2018 9:57 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

Thanks! Are they difficult to replace or expensive?

Neither,
can be replaced from underneath quite easily. Search on LOST; there are threads that describe exactly how to R&R it.
Cost, about $50 bucks at Autozone and the part that comes in the Autozone Duralast box is the OEM Bosch part.... :wink:

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Great! I have to change the oil soon so I will do both then. Let me know if there are any other suggestions.....

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:17 am

mtbdemon wrote:

Great! I have to change the oil soon so I will do both then. Let me know if there are any other suggestions.....

See section 14, page 81 in the Factory Service Manual for R&R instructions.
Note: FSM says to drop exhaust pipe, but that is not necessary. Sensor can be changed by working around pipe, there is room.
Picture below shows Crank Sensor location. There is a small heat shield you have to remove to see and access it.

Link to online Jeep CRD Manuals:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
FSM for 2005 CRD:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... Manual.pdf

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

WWDiesel wrote:

mtbdemon wrote:

Great! I have to change the oil soon so I will do both then. Let me know if there are any other suggestions.....

See section 14, page 81 in the Factory Service Manual for R&R instructions.
Note: FSM says to drop exhaust pipe, but that is not necessary. Sensor can be changed by working around pipe, there is room.
Picture below shows Crank Sensor location. There is a small heat shield you have to remove to see and access it.

Link to online Jeep CRD Manuals:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
FSM for 2005 CRD:> http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... Manual.pdf

THANK YOU!!!

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Part ordered and received and will post up if it makes any difference.

mtbdemon · **Joined:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm **Posts:** 179

Is the best way from the top or the bottom to replace this? I started by taking the anti freeze tank and moving it aside and then was going to take the shield off, but seemed like it might be difficult to reinstall. Tried from the bottom and I could not get the plug to un plug. not enough room for both hands
Perhaps putting it up on block for more room? I have limited space at my house so there arent a ton of options. Thanks!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:11 pm

I recently replaced mine.
Did it from underneath, laying on my back.
Had a kinda difficult time. Maybe because my hands are too big.
Un-clamping the exhaust from the turbo might make it easier.
Hardest part was getting the connector unclipped.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:58 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

Is the best way from the top or the bottom to replace this? I started by taking the anti freeze tank and moving it aside and then was going to take the shield off, but seemed like it might be difficult to reinstall. Tried from the bottom and I could not get the plug to un plug. not enough room for both hands
Perhaps putting it up on block for more room? I have limited space at my house so there arent a ton of options. Thanks!

I have changed a couple, both from underneath with the frontend elevated and after removing the front skid plate.
You will have to work up around the exhaust downpipe so it should be cold when attempting the sensor change.
There is a small heat shield covering over the connector, crank sensor, and its associated wiring that has to be removed in order to facilitate the replacement of the sensor.
The bolt holding the heat shield is a 6mm bolt and I believe it requires either an 8 or 10mm wrench to R&R.
There is a single metric allen head bolt holding the sensor to the block.

rancherman · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:59 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

Is the best way from the top or the bottom to replace this? I started by taking the anti freeze tank and moving it aside and then was going to take the shield off, but seemed like it might be difficult to reinstall. Tried from the bottom and I could not get the plug to un plug. not enough room for both hands
Perhaps putting it up on block for more room? I have limited space at my house so there arent a ton of options. Thanks!

getting the vehicle higher helps if you are larger!

I pulled the sensor out first (from the bottom) swung it down, and unplugged it with the plug being more out in the open.
iirc, there was one more bolt to take out, that held the wiring bracket to do so.

rancherman · **Posted:** Fri Sep 07, 2018 1:00 pm

mtbdemon wrote:

Is the best way from the top or the bottom to replace this? I started by taking the anti freeze tank and moving it aside and then was going to take the shield off, but seemed like it might be difficult to reinstall. Tried from the bottom and I could not get the plug to un plug. not enough room for both hands
Perhaps putting it up on block for more room? I have limited space at my house so there arent a ton of options. Thanks!

getting the vehicle higher helps if you are larger!

I pulled the sensor out first (from the bottom) swung it down, and unplugged it with the plug being more out in the open.
iirc, there was one more bolt to take out, that held the wiring bracket to do so.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:54 pm

I changed 2 crank sensors this past weekend from above . I prefer this to lying down or jacking up etc and getting stuff in eyes. I removed coolant reservoir remove turbo heat shield 3 bolts 13 mm loosen downpipie v clamp , move down pipe over this is pretty easy to do from above. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding heat shield on top of sensor one is kinda blind but easy you can see it barely from one viewpoint its 10 mm if you find 13mm there is exhaust manifold bolt . then remove sensor . the two I changed had a 7mm allen bolt holding them on. One of most time consuming for me was getting connector to sensor off kept thinking needed to press it . a flex head 1/4 ratchet and stubby 1/4 ratchet and various wobble extensions are almost invaluable. To remove connector put flat screwdriver or something like paint can tool in connector twist tool and pull it off. Make sure and not which part of connector goes back in the slot. If you have short arms you may have some trouble from above or use a stool. I removed hood strut on that side and braced hood this also makes it much easier. Only real drawback is I remove coolant bottle not just moved it over so i sucked coolant out of it with hand pump like on windex bottle etc. and drained some out of hose connected to bottom. It also helps a lot to remove the bolt holding heater hoses to move them over a bit. I f you have trouble moving downpipes just reach under and pull back on flex connection area under jeep you don't have to get under.

First time this method took me 2 hours in no hurry 2nd time less than 1 1/2 hours and no neck spasm etc next day.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:31 am

There were also instructions on changing crank sensor from above maybe easier to follow than mine by DocB just before his post of 8-26-14
I knew I had seen this but couldn't find the other day.

Odd missing or stutter problem

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