Sourcing short block

c_salsaman · **Joined:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:29 pm **Posts:** 6

Anyone have a line on a decent short block? A LOST member, websites, wreckers, etc.? Not finding much on car-part.

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geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:40 pm

Dropped a valve. Yummy. You may not actually need the entire block if that carnage didn't hurt the crankshaft, this is a wet sleeve engine and is designed to have the liners replaced which gives you an entirely new cylinder.

That said, your best bet is likely going to be one that you buy the entire engine or even the entire truck in some semblance of condition and try to make one good one from the two bad.

What's your budget? A complete engine is roughly the same cost as a complete running-and-driving CRD these days, about $3500-$4500. I haven't seen anyone selling just the shortblock, b/c anyone that is... Is likely in the same boat you are - a dropped valve.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:55 pm

Where are you located?
I have a spare engine that broke a timing belt and only needs a set of rockers.

c_salsaman · **Joined:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:29 pm **Posts:** 6

WWDiesel wrote:

Where are you located?
I have a spare engine that broke a timing belt and only needs a set of rockers.

I'm in Reno, NV. I already have a low mileage cylinder head.

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c_salsaman · **Joined:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:29 pm **Posts:** 6

geordi wrote:

Dropped a valve. Yummy. You may not actually need the entire block if that carnage didn't hurt the crankshaft, this is a wet sleeve engine and is designed to have the liners replaced which gives you an entirely new cylinder.

That said, your best bet is likely going to be one that you buy the entire engine or even the entire truck in some semblance of condition and try to make one good one from the two bad.

What's your budget? A complete engine is roughly the same cost as a complete running-and-driving CRD these days, about $3500-$4500. I haven't seen anyone selling just the shortblock, b/c anyone that is... Is likely in the same boat you are - a dropped valve.

The carnage seemed pretty severe. I'm fairly inexperienced. What about all the metal from the valves, piston, sleeve working it's way into bad places?

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Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2019 12:23 am

Good point on debris. The one I just parted out toasted the oil pump and some bearings with the tiny metal fragments.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2019 1:02 am

I got one with 3 good pistons/liners in CO if you want to pickup and repair it or yours with parts from either.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW8i7nKSsX8

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2019 1:41 am

Debris is certainly a concern - Although rapid-fire destruction usually doesn't create as much potential for glitter as with oil starvation or a spun bearing.

If you are taking the pan off to replace the rod anyway - you have a chance to see the conditions and if it is filled with shrapnel... Maybe an argument for flushing it or forgetting about it. The oil pump SHOULD be able to handle anything that can make it through the pickup screen, and the next stop is the filter which again - SHOULD - catch anything that made it through the pump and screen. Not sure what happened in Nick's case, but these are creative little motors. Always finding a new way to cause mayhem.

c_salsaman · **Joined:** Sat Sep 29, 2018 8:29 pm **Posts:** 6

geordi wrote:

Debris is certainly a concern - Although rapid-fire destruction usually doesn't create as much potential for glitter as with oil starvation or a spun bearing.

If you are taking the pan off to replace the rod anyway - you have a chance to see the conditions and if it is filled with shrapnel... Maybe an argument for flushing it or forgetting about it. The oil pump SHOULD be able to handle anything that can make it through the pickup screen, and the next stop is the filter which again - SHOULD - catch anything that made it through the pump and screen. Not sure what happened in Nick's case, but these are creative little motors. Always finding a new way to cause mayhem.

I will check the pan and the oil filter. But as far as destruction goes, this seems like a lot.

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vwroad87 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:11 pm

Wow! Sorry for your loss, Haven't seen that much destruction on a CRD cylinder head before now. I would have thought the motor would have stalled long before that carnage.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2019 12:50 am

Yeah, too bad they don't stop all injection the instant an injector gets smashed. I don't know anything about injector feedback to the ecu though :5SHOTS:

krb · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2019 2:21 am

Oh man that hurt!

That thing ran a while after the carnage started. I'll bet it complained a lot before it stopped!?!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2019 1:14 pm

WOW!

That engine ran for some time after the valve dropped to cause that kind of carnage.
That is some serious damage.... :grim:

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 05, 2019 5:19 pm

Best you have a read of CaptainDean's thread Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking He has felt your pain.
I am in the slow process of an engine rebuild myself.
Was cheaper to buy a complete car than an engine. I am using it at the moment. May decide to repair the damaged engine. It has a hole in the skirt of the block. Been told that this can be welded back together.
Good luck with yours.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:45 pm

layback40 wrote:

Best you have a read of CaptainDean's thread Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking He has felt your pain.
I am in the slow process of an engine rebuild myself.
Was cheaper to buy a complete car than an engine. I am using it at the moment. May decide to repair the damaged engine. It has a hole in the skirt of the block. Been told that this can be welded back together.
Good luck with yours.

I'm not sure that cast iron can be welded, but the block itself isn't under a lot of stress - all of the boom is contained in the liners. So maybe it would work, depending on where the hole is.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 09, 2019 11:03 am

Cast iron parts and blocks can be welded using the right equipment, correct welding rod, proper technique, and experience.
Been a many of them welded up when cracked or broken in non-critical areas.
But one must be very conscious of oil passages and / or critical webbing. :juggle:

Plenty of pictures and videos online covering the subject. :wink:

Sourcing short block

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