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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:30 pm 
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Just wanted to throw out the possibility of a collapsed line. If the inner lining of a rubber line collapses it may allow fluid to flow through but not back. It just acts like a check valve.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:32 pm 
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Quote:
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

Priceless! :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 11:34 pm 
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I see what you're saying about the crud's location.

I'll compare a rebuild kit versus new/rebuilt parts. The cylinder is in good shape, as is the piston and the rubber o ring in there.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:06 am 
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Cacher123 wrote:
Quote:
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

Priceless! :D


Unfortunately I feel that quote applies to me all to often :?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:15 am 
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rebuilt calipers are about $60 ish. Not sure, but the dealer price is close to that, but I can't tell for sure if that's complete.

Rebuild parts are about 1/2 that. I'd go for fully assembled units. new if possible otherwise rebuilt.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 10:52 am 
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I would just buy a new/rebuilt caliper. Its not a good idea to be screwing around with your brakes if your not sure its going to fix it. Im not saying you dont know what your doing, but I think thats the best idea. Have fun working on your jeep adam.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:00 pm 
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Man, doing those brakes is easy! :wink:

After running around town all morning, I finally found someone with the caliper. "Wow, that's a pretty new vehicle to need calipers," was the common reply. SHUT UP! I KNOW!

Anyway, got a rebuilt unit that looked like the oem unit, all for $55. It took me about 10 minutes to reassemble the whole thing! Gotta love working with new parts.

My 6 year old helped me bleed the brakes. The fluid came out solid after about 2-3 pumps. Driving it feels solid.

I'm going to bring it back to my mechanic and demand new brake pads and maybe a new rotor since it's discolored from the overheating. What's your thoughts on the new rotor? Necessary?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:19 pm 
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The rotor should have a minimum thickness allowance stamped on it, if it's not close to that just have it turned enough to remove the glaze. Check it to ensure that it is still true though, if it got that hot, it may be warped and then you will need a new one.

I've got a six year old also, she loves being Daddy's little helper and everything Jeep.


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